new cams now almost stalling

[turboedspyder]

i put in a pair of comp cams 101200's in the car last week and when i let off the trottle the rpm's drop really low and almost stalls everytime. how can i fix this problem? should i raise the idle maybe? or richin it up alittle with the safc? i need some suggestions. thanks alot

 

[SmalltownDSMer]

I was having the same issue with my 272's and SAFC. It seemed like the car was going to die every time I would let off the throttle. When I purchased DSMlink and got a good tune, I never encountered that problem again.

 

[JayRolla]

Raise the idle a little and see if that helps. Its a huge issue when you have some real cams but like stated dsmlink seems to run them just fine. Its usually a combo of large injectors and cams with a bad tuning device like the safc.

I know someone that was running 1600's on a evo maf, and just an safc. Once he installed cams (280's) the car wouldnt even stay running. Once link was installed it was fine.

 

[OwninFools]

A piggy back system like an SAFC is no good once you go past 680CC injectors from what I've heard. After that you want to get a burnt chip, to compensate for your setup, or like others had mentioned, get DSMLink.

Also, I can't say no good, but it's not nearly enough.

 

[turboedspyder]

so your sayin all i can really do is get dsmlink??? ### i really dont have the money to get a new ecu and link. i will try raising the idle to around 900 to see if that helps. but how do i raise the idle?

 

[rush2252]

Adjust the BISS screw located towards the front of the throttle body. Set the idle around 1000-1100rpm. Also check the PCV system and clean the throttle body.

IF the ISC isnt functioning properly or the TB is dirty this can cause issues when trying to set the idle. YOU DONT have to have DSMlink you can simply raise the idle to compensate. This will allow the car to stay running but if the idle is too high it will suffer driveability.

I think what most people are saying is DSMlink if you can afford it is the proper way to TUNE for the larger cams

-Kolby

 

[turboedspyder]

if i richen it up alittle will this help at all?

 

[gstryyder]

do you have anything to read your a/f ratio? that would help a bit...

 

[turboedspyder]

yea i have the aem uego. but right now im waiting for the new turbo to come in so i cant really check my ratios

 

[OwninFools]

so your sayin all i can really do is get dsmlink??? ### i really dont have the money to get a new ecu and link. i will try raising the idle to around 900 to see if that helps. but how do i raise the idle?

No no, getting DSMLink is not the only option.
If you can locate an eprom ECU, you can get a chip burnt for it, that will compensate for everything you tell the person burning the chip. That cost is usually around 250 dollars for everything. On average, 200 for an eprom ECU and 50 bucks for the chip shipped.

You will have to increase the idle by the BISS screw and that should hopefully help out for now.

 

[gstryyder]

why can't you check it just ### your waiting for a different turbo? you should be able to find out what your current setup is running. and see how it is running at idle. i would turn up the rpms to about 1000... but you still need to figure out the a/f on it.. that will tell you to richen it up or not. you don't need any different turbo just to throw on a wideband and get a base read of what your running at.

 

[turboedspyder]

no the turbo i have on there now is blown so im waiting for the new one to get in. and i dont want to start it ### theres a screeching sound from the turbo like somethings grinding and i dont wanna break anything else

 

[turboedspyder]

i just started it up for alittle bit and the a/f ratios were all over the place. slowly moving around through the entire guage. like 11-16. it was weird. i have my low trottle set at -18 throughout the whole thing. i think i have some tuning to do

 

[Fridayda13th]

Raise you idle to at least 1000, I had mine at 1300 to 1500.

 

[Strm Trpr]

DSMLink allows tuners to monitor certain parameters that control idle.
Adjusting the BISS CCW will raise the idle, but it will also lower the LearnIdleAdj parameter in the ECU.
Turning the BISS CW will raise the LearnIdleAdj.
LearnIdleAdj should be set to 140 during a full operating temp idle.

Adjusting the BISS also changes the ISCPosition.
ISCPosition should be around 30 when LearnIdleAdj is 140 during a full operating temp idle.

Not sure if you guys with loggers can log those parameters, but it's worth digging into to see what "Values" you can "Capture".

Another parameter that needs to be dialed in is TPSVolts.
This needs to be 0.63 Volts during a full operating temp idle.
Their never on spec from the factory, and anyone that has rebuilt their throttle body knows this part has to come off.
Using a volt meter is not accurate enough, and only gets you close.
While logging TPSVolts, you need to loosen the two screws that hold it to the throttle body, then rotated it ever so slightly to get the reading right at 0.61 Volts.
Then when you tighten it down, it'll be perfectly set to 0.63 Volts...