New brake pads wont fit

[TimF]

I attepted to install brake pad on my 1g talon today because my driver side rear was scrapping bad. Long story short my new pads wont clear the caliper by almost a 1/8 inch. So I could only install the inner pads but not the outer ones as the caliber would not go down. I fallowed my haynes manual through everystep.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Is it possible that you got fwd pads? I am not sure if they differ or not. JJust an idea

 

[dsmspick]

You remove the cap on the break master then push the brake piston in? That sounds like your pad is hitting the rotor causing it to not sit all the way back down. Make sure the piston on the caliper is pushed in.

 

[agentorange313]

Is it possible that you got fwd pads? I am not sure if they differ or not. JJust an idea

FWD 91 dsms used the same caliper as the AWD, they would be the same pad if he has the stock calipers still on.

I would use a C clamp and compress the caliper piston to allow the pad to fit int he caliper to fit over the rotor.

Your caliper might be "sticking". The caliper piston brake seal might be worn and not allowing the piston to retract when not engaged. If you have this problem you will be replacing you pads again very soon, uneven pad wear. Reman calipers can be had for cheap.

Since you have a 91, I would also look into the "big brake" upgrade. It uses mitsu oem 2 piston calipers found on the 92-99 dsm turbos, diamates, galant vr4 and montero sports. They bolt up to existing mounts on the knuckle, the only think you will need are new pads (ones to fit the 2 pistons calipers) and larger rotors (92-99 dsm turbos) to match.

goodluck

 

[ChiTownHussla]

From what I recall, I had to use vice grips and channel locks to compress the rear pistons. The cube tool with the little prongs sticking out could not apply enough torque to the piston. I improvised and it worked well.

 

[bryanwheat]

Rears on a 1g have to be screwed in, on a 2g they can be compressed with a clamp. This is because the e brake goes into the caliper on the 1g.

 

[agentorange313]

From what I recall, I had to use vice grips and channel locks to compress the rear pistons. The cube tool with the little prongs sticking out could not apply enough torque to the piston. I improvised and it worked well.

I totally missed the "rear" part, I thought it was his front caliper, good looking out thanks.

Yes the rear caliper needs to be rotated to compress. If you notice the rear caliper piston had two grooves in it, there is a caliper compressor tool that fits those grooves.

As ChiTownHussla said you can use a pair of vice grips to rotate it.

 

[RamenPride]

Yes the rear caliper needs to be rotated to compress. If you notice the rear caliper piston had two grooves in it, there is a caliper compressor tool that fits those grooves.

As ChiTownHussla said you can use a pair of vice grips to rotate it.

I think I just used the tips of a pair of needle nose pliers to rotate the piston back into the caliper. If you have to use vice grips, it sounds like you may want to rebuild or replace the caliper if it's that hard to turn the piston.

 

[steve]

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Good Stuff in here too:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...s/362859-how-rebuild-rear-brake-calipers.html

 

[TimF]

Yea we tuend that piston like the manual said, nothing happened. Yes we had the brake cap off and turned the piston. My calipers are failry old and rusted, and that piston was a PITA to turn. But I am unsure If I can afford new calipers and rotors (my rotor got pretty chewed so I need to replace that for sure). I Did snag some front slotted and drilled rotors for a good deal(my driver front is warped and squeks) but Im looking for rear ones now. I figured if autozone charges 60$ a rotor new some used slotted and drilled ones would be better.

Thanks for the rebuild link, but I dont have the time, I am full time college student and work full time, so all I know is work and school . We were doing this at 11 o'clock last night because that was my only free time I had. And I need my car for DD so I can have calipers sitting around while I work on them over the coarse of a few days.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Slotted are. Best. I just did a research paper on this subject about 2 months ago. You lose about 8-12% surface area for slotted and drilled. Slotted only about 3-5%. You want as much surface area as opssible to bite into, so just slotted are best. Plus some people say under heavy, repeated useage, they crack the drilled and slotted. Personally I would gey brrmbo blanks or just slotted.

 

[TimF]

Yea I say the brembo blanks on extreme psi. I thought the drilled rotors would be better but I can understand what you mean

So pretty much I need to get new calipers?

 

[steve]

So pretty much I need to get new calipers?

If you can no longer turn the rear piston into the caliper so you can change the pads, yes.

I only posted the rebuild thread for informational data on how things go together in the rear caliper.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Pm G4 guy and see if he has any rear calipers.I'm sure he would even drive them down to you.

EDIT: I talked to G4, he doesn't have any brake parts at all..

 

[TimF]

We turned it, but it did not move at all, and was a real pita even with vise grips (manual said needle nose plairs yea right) So we just did not turn enough then?

 

[ChiTownHussla]

I turned mine for llike 30 min each side....

 

[TimF]

wow thats a long time

 

[ChiTownHussla]

gotta do it until it seats properly.

 

[Bud92gsx]

I had to beat a rotor off my girls car for a at least a half hour..That was a huge PITA..

But the breaks are great now...

 

[TimF]

yea are caliper would not raise off (like it said in the directions to just lift it, they make it look so easy) We had to take a rubber mallet to it and beat it up. Well my rotors are toast so I need ones, and Ill probobly save them for a day that I can sit there and twist the piston for an hour to clear my pads