New block

[DSM_GSX01]

I have a new block on my engine stand. I am doing the 2.3 stroker build. And i have the oil pan on the block but no head. How should i keep my block oiled with my oil pan on? Thanks for any help.

 

[YZFR1]

If you want to prime the bearings and the rest of the short block, just make sure your oil pump is installed and you have oil in the oil pan (obviously). Than take a drill and stick an adapter on it to accept a 14mm socket, now you can use the drill with the socket to spin your oil pump gear. I would highly advise to do this outside, as oil will come out spraying from the little hole in the back if the deck.

That's pretty much it, a very simple procedure.

 

[dj-t]

I would just wipe the cylinder walls with oil or wd40 and cover the block with a garbage bag to prevent debris from getting on it. Shouldn't have to worry to much about down where the crank is. Should have some lube (assembly lube/oil) there when it was assembled.

 

[95gstnate]

How long are you letting it sit before you use it? Wiping the cylinders with oil and putting it a bag will probably be the best thing to do like dj-t said. Or if your really worried about the inside you could pug your dipstick hole and over fill the bottom end with oil.

 

[TaLN91tsI]

WD 40 and bagging engine in a safe dry place is your best storage option

 

[fun kart kid]

ATF also works great for cleening cylinders and prevention of rust

 

[DSM_GSX01]

Yea i have two big garbage bags covering it. I don't know what to use to lube the internals? I know engine oil but should i put it in the oil pan. And how will it get to the bearings?

 

[Breezio69]

Yea i have two big garbage bags covering it. I don't know what to use to lube the internals? I know engine oil but should i put it in the oil pan. And how will it get to the bearings?

Yzfr1 answered this in the second post.

Yes, put oil in the pan, at least enough to submerge the pick up. Then when you rotate the oil pump pulley it draws the oil from the pan just like if it were running and complete.

 

[DSM_GSX01]

Ok i see sorry. So i just fill the oil pan up right? And spin the oil pump gear to get all the bearings?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Its on an engine stand take the rod caps off and put redliene assembily llube in the bearings. Same with mains. Keep the inner side of the bearing that mates to the rod cap clean.

 

[DSM_GSX01]

The oil pan is on already. I don't want to take it off. Also need to know what weight of oil to use in it? Thanks

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Depends on if your making power or not, take thr pan off and do it right.
10w30
If stock 20w50 if 500+hp

 

[Paintballaa5]

In regards to the trash bag comments, I believe using plastic wrap would be a much better way to do it.

Spray it down with wd40, then wrap it super tight with plastic wrap.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

In regards to the trash bag comments, I believe using plastic wrap would be a much better way to do it.

Spray it down with wd40, then wrap it super tight with plastic wrap.

Isnt WD supposed to be an oil remover? I dont use the stuff that often but i thought it was for cleaning/penetration and not for lube, i agree wrap is best. Less air pockets. But id rub the bores with motor oil.

 

[Gerg]

This sounds kind of fishy. Did you assemble the motor yourself? It kinda sounds as if you didn't put assembly lube on the bearing surfaces, and now your trying to oil the bearings after the fact.

 

[BogusSVO]

How long will it sit on the engine stand?

How long till the head is installed?

Bags are fine, as long as there is no rips or tears.

Pallet wrap is good for a short period of time. The will not be able to "breathe" so the trapped air with moisture will sweat due to temp changes and rust.

With the bags you can remove them, and inspect and reapply.


If you installed the crank, and lubed the bearings with engine oil, you should be good for a month or so. Before the oil rolls off and the bearing is dry.

If you prime the short block (No head installed) you will make a huge mess when the oil shoots out the vert oil passage to the head deck.

A thick coat of wheel bearing grease in the cylinders will keep them from rusting, if you can see the crosshatch, then it is not thick enough.

Just wipe out as much grease as you can before the head is installed. What is left will just burn off.

Now if the engine sits for months, after the head is installed, before the the timing belt is on. load the oil pain with oil, and spin the oil pump with a drill to build oil pressure.
Once you have oil pressure, put a break over bar on the crank and turn it appox 7/8 of a turn, clock wise, then back counter clock wise. (this will keep from hitting the valves) About a half dozen times or so. This will get oill fully back on the bearings.

 

[DSM_GSX01]

Ok thank you and i got the engine done by jacks trasmissions and i know they lubricated the bearings. And so i should take the pan off?

 

[BogusSVO]

Contact jacks and ask them what they used on the bearings for lube.

As for pulling the pan, that depends on how you want to deal with keeping the bearings lubed.

With the method I laid out above, there is no need to remove the oil pan.

 

[DSM_GSX01]

Ok i will contact them tomarrow. I will ask what they used on the bearings and pump. I will see what they have used. But should i put any oil in the oil pan? They just wrap it up in plastic?

I called jacks transmissions this morning and they did use engine assembly lube on the engine. They also did that to oil pump as well. So i was wondering how i should go about oiling the engine? Thanks for all the tips and help.