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need some help stuck at work.

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geno414

10+ Year Contributor
440
4
Jan 13, 2011
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Started the car ran fine started driving the car to work at 4 am half way to work 70 mph the car started going lean and loss of power and had to keep down shifting till I was in 3rd get car was going lean on my wide band and the more gas I gave it the more it got bad . Had this problem when my coil pack shorted out but I pulled over swapped it out with a good coil pack. (Yes I carry a spare ) and the same thing was going on with the good one two . Now I have a 6 bolt swap and I turned off random miss fire code on the link is it my coil witch I swapped out with a good one and it still does it or spark plugs or my cas black top cas . ? I barely made it to work and it runs like crap I can smell un burnt gas at idle two any one?
 
There's 2 main things that contribute to a car running properly; air, fuel, ignition. Given the fact that you said that you have had ignition problems before that is where I, personally, would check first. When was the last time that you changed your plugs? What is the gap on them. You may have done a coil swap, but a good coil is only as good as the wires that carry a spark. When was the last time those were changed? Answer and check these things.
 
Both my coil packs are good my coil on plug set up my stock set up both good car runs the same with both its cinder 2 and 3 that are getting foiled I have ngk one step colder gap to .28 last changed was about a year and half ago I took the good plugs from 1 and 4 and changed them with 2 and 3 and 2 and 3 still do not fire note. It was random when this happened my base time is set at 5* dsm link is adjusted 1* over stock value been run in it like that since the swap back in 2012
 
I just put new spark plugs in and still the car is only running on cinder 1, and 4. I can take plug wires 2 and 3 off and the car runs the same as if they were on . Could it be a cas a bad ecu a bad wire ect. ? I don't know cars stuck at work and I walked home LOL
 
If you have the 1g cam n crank sensor you could have a bad cam signal and a good crank signal that'll cause the problem ur describing.can u get another cam/crank sensor u can try or a loose connection at the cam signal inspect the wires closely for any breaks.
 
I was loosing a lot of power from my WB02 dying. it will show symptoms after doing a hard pull (heat) it will show an "error code". The error code is to show full rich, which will screw with the car's fuel trims etc and run like crap. It will go back if I restarted the car or cycled the ignition power off then back on. Eventually it became a real PITA (showed error on every trip)

Another thing worth considering if you are SD is if the MAP dies, your car will not run at all.
 
I guess I'll check for lose wires and stuff to start easy I wish I had a spare cas but I don't I would have to look on ebay or a junk yard for one and look over everything you guys said I know it's not the maf and it's weird because I have no codes popping up not one .
 
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