Need some help diagnosing problems with my 96 TSi.

[DSM_Talon77]

So I got this TSi about 2 weeks ago and it has some problems but what i thought were small problems.

Got those worked out and the night before we took it to a shop, Turbo finally boosted and then what seemed to me, fuel cut happened, car just shut off and took a couple of tries to get it started again. Was driving it home and fuel cut happened again. So next day took it to a shop to see what else is up. The Guy said some lifters were ticking and it was missing moter and granny mounts. Along with some other things like plug wires and valve cover and some pulley tensioners. Well the total came out to be $1800. Which i thought was ridiculous but oh well bit the dirt and paid it.
Well got the car yesterday and it started up with no squeaks anymore but when i started to drive it, there was now a loud tick coming from the engine and the mech said it was going to do that until the other lifters are replaced. I'm like ok, well it will still at least get me around town until i get more money, he assured me that would be right. He said no more fuel cuts or anything of that sort. Sweet working again!

Well no, driving it to work, didn't even boost up this time and bam fuel cut happened again and this time couldnt get it to start after 30 minutes.

What could be the problem with the fuel cut or whatever is happening? Why is there now a loud tick after "being fixed" when there wasn't one before going into the shop.
Engine just shot now?

I just want to know what's up from the real DSM guys and not this mechanic because i think he is just screwing me.

Thanks in advance





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[DSM_Talon77]

If it doesnt have shaft play. How much is it first

Bid is at $21... $16 ship

 

[Silver99GSX]

Could you send a pic closer to the turbo to see if its running a wastegate or not? Can't tell from the picture. Also do you know a tick sound from a knock sound? You should post a sound clip after you figure out if its running a wastegate and when the other problems are fixed.

 

[solar_eclipse89]

Yeah I looked at it it looks like it in pretty good shape but its hard to tell if a used turbo is good over the net this is it right http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2g-T...e_Car_Parts&hash=item230b68e2be#ht_500wt_1182

 

[DSM_Talon77]

Yeah I looked at it it looks like it in pretty good shape but its hard to tell if a used turbo is good over the net this is it right 2g T25 Turbo 73,895 miles!!!!: eBay Motors (item 150515278526 end time Nov-06-10 20:40:13 PDT)

yeah, i freakin lost it at $92!!!

 

[DSM_Talon77]

Alright guys so here's the scoop..

I ordered a stock T25 turbo with stock 2G manifold with all the oil line (least seller said) and hardly any shaft play!! Sweet!

Got to drive it home from the shop yesterday and I know for a fact there is no wastegate ANYWHERE on the turbo/manifold. Heres where it got tricky, car started just fine out of the shop, still with a 'tick' when i push on the gas, none during idle, got 1 mile away from shop at a stoplight and the car, dies, cant start it, had to push it through the intersection, then push start it and then it would go. When I let off the gas, the car dies again and since I'm moving, I had to 'pop start' all the way home running through stop signs and lights =/.

Any suggestions on what that could be?

Also, we got a "new" valve cover of there and there is still oil on the valve cover near the plugs, I kinda searched on here, and looked at my oil cap and it may look like its coming from there, doesn't look like any of the bolts are cracked or hairline cracked or anything, so I'm replacing the oil cap gasket and see what that does.

The "mechanic" said I have a cracked head, but there is NO oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, so I don't know what else there can be to lead him to say that?

Just a little update and looking for any advice and/or help and where to go from here.

 

[rvaughn]

You need to STOP taking your car to that mechanic, he is ripping you off big time. Follow the advice posted above from your fellow dsm'ers in Colorado and take it to one of the listed, reputable shops, if you can't work on it yourself.

I would suggest looking into what turbo you have. It is possible you have an internally gated variant of this or that turbo, without knowing what turbo you have, no one can confirm if you have a wastegate or not, goodluck!

 

[DSM_Talon77]

You need to STOP taking your car to that mechanic, he is ripping you off big time. Follow the advice posted above from your fellow dsm'ers in Colorado and take it to one of the listed, reputable shops, if you can't work on it yourself.

I would suggest looking into what turbo you have. It is possible you have an internally gated variant of this or that turbo, without knowing what turbo you have, no one can confirm if you have a wastegate or not, goodluck!

I am not taking it to that mechanic anymore, he had the car over the damn weekend because he went hunting and didnt give us our keys until he got back. I can work on my car and have a lot of friends that know a lot about cars so its staying in my driveway and getting worked on.

 

[ktgurl87]

great news. now you can post up a better picture of your current turbo

 

[kidtsi]

Alright guys so here's the scoop..

I ordered a stock T25 turbo with stock 2G manifold with all the oil line (least seller said) and hardly any shaft play!! Sweet!

Got to drive it home from the shop yesterday and I know for a fact there is no wastegate ANYWHERE on the turbo/manifold. Heres where it got tricky, car started just fine out of the shop, still with a 'tick' when i push on the gas, none during idle, got 1 mile away from shop at a stoplight and the car, dies, cant start it, had to push it through the intersection, then push start it and then it would go. When I let off the gas, the car dies again and since I'm moving, I had to 'pop start' all the way home running through stop signs and lights =/.

Any suggestions on what that could be?

Also, we got a "new" valve cover of there and there is still oil on the valve cover near the plugs, I kinda searched on here, and looked at my oil cap and it may look like its coming from there, doesn't look like any of the bolts are cracked or hairline cracked or anything, so I'm replacing the oil cap gasket and see what that does.

The "mechanic" said I have a cracked head, but there is NO oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, so I don't know what else there can be to lead him to say that?

Just a little update and looking for any advice and/or help and where to go from here.

this mechanic is screwing you bad

 

[DSM_Talon77]

Since I'm off tomorrow, I will get some better pictures of the engine bay in the daylight.

 

[iminadaze]

Without a wastegate your uncontrolled boost levels were probably too much for the factory pcv valve to handle, so you having some oil coming out of the cap is not going to stop with a new cap, you need to make sure your pcv valve can hold back the psi you are making. with no wastegate your engine is like a pressure vessel with no relief valve, building pressure until...well you get the idea. Fix it quickly.

 

[DSM_Talon77]

Without a wastegate your uncontrolled boost levels were probably too much for the factory pcv valve to handle, so you having some oil coming out of the cap is not going to stop with a new cap, you need to make sure your pcv valve can hold back the psi you are making. with no wastegate your engine is like a pressure vessel with no relief valve, building pressure until...well you get the idea. Fix it quickly.

Gotcha!

I'm not even turning it over until I get the stock turbo/mani on there when it comes in.

I just ordered a new oil cap and the GReddy Type RS recirc fitting, so oh well. I don't know how much boost is going through (no boost gauge just the SAFC). When my I get my next check, I will be getting a boost gauge and a boost controller. I read that the stalling of the car could be part of the BOV not being recirculated so hopefully that will be that, not sure

 

[2gmummy]

Definetly make sure your engine is ticking and not knocking asap, that can make a world of difference

 

[DSM_Talon77]

Alright guys, here are some pictures of the current engine setup..

Eagle Talon TSi FWD - Imgur

I did take off my intake, in the process of taking the turbo/manifold off very slowly haha.

 

[iminadaze]

If you were sitting at a light idling and the engine cut out then it is not because the bov isn't recirc'd unless you don't have the stub in the air intake that the bov
connects to plugged, and even then it would still start after it stalled.

Recirc the bov because your setup requires it for the engine to operate correctly, that is when the bov actually blows-off, which it isn't doing at idle. Does it have a stock fuel pressure regulator on it? If so, pull the vac line from it and see if there is fuel in it, it is possible that you blew a diaphram or two or all with no wastegate and all the extra pressure.

Also (this is kinda silly on my part) I had this loud ticking noise just like you described and I swore it was an injector cause of how I only heard it when I gave it a little throttle and not at idle, turned out it was the purge solenoid on the firewall and not what I "thought" it was. so a little brainstorming and some guidence from this forum and its helpful members will go alot further than just keep replacing parts because you think that might be it.... We want to save you money so that when the car and you are ready you can really put that money where it will count.

Unless it is no good, you should keep the t3 and correct the issue with the wastegate, an external wg with ajustability is always nice, going to a t25 and a mbc is gonna give you another set of headaches, because when you turn up the controller (and you will or you wouldn't be getting one) your going to find out what fuel cut really is and you better be wearing a seatbelt

 

[DSM_Talon77]

If you were sitting at a light idling and the engine cut out then it is not because the bov isn't recirc'd unless you don't have the stub in the air intake that the bov
connects to plugged, and even then it would still start after it stalled.

Recirc the bov because your setup requires it for the engine to operate correctly, that is when the bov actually blows-off, which it isn't doing at idle. Does it have a stock fuel pressure regulator on it? If so, pull the vac line from it and see if there is fuel in it, it is possible that you blew a diaphram or two or all with no wastegate and all the extra pressure.

Also (this is kinda silly on my part) I had this loud ticking noise just like you described and I swore it was an injector cause of how I only heard it when I gave it a little throttle and not at idle, turned out it was the purge solenoid on the firewall and not what I "thought" it was. so a little brainstorming and some guidence from this forum and its helpful members will go alot further than just keep replacing parts because you think that might be it.... We want to save you money so that when the car and you are ready you can really put that money where it will count.

Unless it is no good, you should keep the t3 and correct the issue with the wastegate, an external wg with ajustability is always nice, going to a t25 and a mbc is gonna give you another set of headaches, because when you turn up the controller (and you will or you wouldn't be getting one) your going to find out what fuel cut really is and you better be wearing a seatbelt

My plan as of the moment, go back to stock for now, set the T3 aside, probably sell it, and go with and Evo3 Turbo.

I will probably post up a video of the tick noise before I start draining and pulling everything off.

 

[2gmummy]

I dont think id sell the turbo as long as its good, i mean i have the evo III and its loads of fun but once you get a taste of high boost your probably going to be hooked. imo but you could still swap in the evoIII for the time being and then if(when) you want to go bigger you'll already have a turbo id personally get a new exh mani though..that one seems sketch....

 

[DSM_Talon77]

Alright guys, been awhile since I've been posting, been busy ordering parts and now I am stuck...

I have the Greddy FMIC, and got a stock mani and turbo (i believe now that I look closer, I got a 1G turbo/mani). Oh well for right now, but have some questions how to hook it all up...

The black (dump tube??) Im not sure where it goes and where all the oil lines fit. Do i need to get a J-pipe to the drivers side to the FMIC piping?

Here are some pics to help me explain:

imgur: the simple image sharer
imgur: the simple image sharer
imgur: the simple image sharer
imgur: the simple image sharer
imgur: the simple image sharer


Sorry for not really knowing the terms

 

[Absit]

I feel such pitty in my heart.. Yeah that's a MHI turbo and yes you need a j pipe. The VFAQ has sections for 14b/16g in a 2g that will tell you how to hook it all up.

Honestly I'd just assume everything on the car is broken and start rebuilding from scratch.