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Street Faze

15+ Year Contributor
118
1
Feb 10, 2010
canton, Ohio
92 Talon AWD Shell is FULLY stripped of ALL unneccaserys
About 95k on block(came from auto)
Unknown mileage on head(Auto,Auto cams)
Stage 2 Shep trans under 1k
Balance shaft removal kit
Removed all vacuum lines(except all obvious needed ones)
No power steering
No A/C
Revised lifters
2g exhaust manifold
Strong but stock factory turbo(14b, shaft play of course...15psi)
Cometic head gasket
OEM head bolts
2.5inch downpipe back
Boost guage/controller
OEM clutch
160 degree failsafe
1 stock fan (driver side)
Rewired fuel pump
...................................Think thats all i've done to it. Looking to upgrade but i am getting opinions i'm not sure about.These are things i assummed i would do next.

Act 2600 Street
DSM Link V3 w/ eprom work
AEM wideband
GM MAF (In air intake not intercooler piping?)
3inch air intake pipe, k&n
Walbro 255( High pressure or no?)
FIC 750cc
FMIC
Small or Big 16g(?)
AFPR(?)

For Under 3k between Strictlyimportmotorsports.com and extremepsi.com

Not sure if i should bother with some of these mods until i do something with the auto head( No more power @ about 5300-5500rpm 15psi)

Mixed opinions/feelings about where to put the GM MAF

FMIC i found was threw SIM and it is only 450.00!!! CXRacing...trust worthy? Only other one i found was extremepsi for 750.00. Also found a Big 16g on SIM for 299.00...trust worthy?

Mixed opinons on AFPR. some have said stock regulator will be fine..others say F**K that..I just dont want to spend it if i dont have to.

Any supproting mods i am missing?....My 1st (drivable) DSM(after 1 year)just now getting ever so slightly bored with current setup.Thanks for any input.
 
The 3" GM maf is a very nice upgrade. My friend actually prefers it over speed density on his street cars. If you want to run the gm maf though you will want to put it between the bov and the throttle body.

The SIM fmic is nice, also check out :
_p_VRSF 1G Front Mount Intercooler Kit : 1G DSM_/p_
Nice piece for a fair price, has gm maf provisions as an option.

As for the fpr, are you on the stock fuel pump still? A rewired stock fuel pump does not "need" an afpr. I run a 190 with no afpr. The 255's will overrun the stock fpr but even that is only at idle and not that big of a deal. It is still a good investment though.

And big vs small 16g. You might as well grab an evo 3 b16g if your going through the trouble of the swap. The evo3 is good for about 50hp more then the small. The small can still make 350 wide open. It really depends on your goals i guess.
 
Some manual cams would give the engine more flow. The auto cams are less agressive. A good spot for the MAF would be before the throttle body and after the BOV. The stock FPR only has a 1/8" hole. It will be overrun by anything larger than a stock fuel pump. I have no clue how guys with stock FPR's are so sure it's not getting overrun, it's not like they have a gauge on it. Not to mention there is no way to see/chenge the fuel pressure which is important for dialing in injectors.
 
Well your line up is good, just a little out of order.

Wideband
Link
AFPR
Pump
injectors
FMIC
IC pipes
GM MAF
BOV (if your stock one isnt cutting it)
Clutch
Turbo and intake pipe

You want to make the upgrades to your fuel system first before upgrading your turbo. If you do not, you run a very real risk of things like Knock. I just had that very problem with my 50trim. Today I installed my 255 and AFPR and for the last week i would over run my pump anytime above 4k RPM. You dont NEED the GM maf at all, but it allows you to vent your BOV which I prefer personally. Stock clutch should be OK until you do the turbo as well. Build yourself a solid fuel system then add HP. Since you need fuel to make power, its the best place to start to keep from risking blowing up your motor.
 
+1 on the VRspeed intercooler. And ecmlink should be far up on your list too. It really lets you take advantage of each upgrade you do. Just do a lot of homework and reading, and you could tune it yourself.
 
i say clutch next you dont want to bump up power and blow that clutch and be stranded think reliability then power get a wideband then ecm link then gm maf then work on fuel pressure then more air flow then turbo and intake pipe you have to have everything supported before you just try to build it up
 
Sweet find 91stocker!!!! Thanks! I hope to buy Everything at once. Don't worry I'm defenitly getting DSMLink.

Here's something that is very confusing to me...My friend...my most creditable local dsm buddy....Been around them for about 9 yrs...helped me out alot with my Talon....says " ok Dave, i like ya but im just going to be mean and straight out tell ya, If there is a regulator on your car...or the maf in the upper intercooler pipe, i'll never touch it again." I say " the regulator makes sense to me and i dont see how it will hurt, more accurate tuning..."....He says " Fine do it. waste money. have fun." He also told me to go to dsmlink.com and read about it. i personally had trouble navigating there site...something on there important that someone has seen relating to this?

Why is he so against it? specially the regualtor, i figured it be manditory....and maybe the maf should stay where it was orginally put(belongs). Major differences? I do plan on upgrading the pump to a 255 so....?

Will i be safe with the auto cams with all mentioned upgrades(mods), or should i def upgrade cams? if i can get away with it, it would be nice, but i want to do everything right for my Talon.
Goals for car is mainly track( to go fast), but i will still drive it on the weekends atleast.
 
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Sweet find 91stocker!!!! Thanks! I hope to buy Everything at once. Don't worry I'm defenitly getting DSMLink.

Yep no problem. Glad to help.

Here's something that is very confusing to me...My friend...my most creditable local dsm buddy....Been around them for about 9 yrs...helped me out alot with my Talon....says " ok Dave, i like ya but im just going to be mean and straight out tell ya, If there is a regulator on your car...or the maf in the upper intercooler pipe, i'll never touch it again." I say " the regulator makes sense to me and i dont see how it will hurt, more accurate tuning..."....He says " Fine do it. waste money. have fun."

No offense, but he sounds like a moron. What reason does he have to why a gm maf ran in blow-through is so bad? We've used it on 3 different cars now, and they were all 330hp+. By removing the restriction in your intake pipe(2g maf) you will see a noticeable increase in spool up. And you should be good for 600hp with that set up.

Why is he so against it? specially the regualtor, i figured it be manditory....and maybe the maf should stay where it was orginally put(belongs). Major differences? I do plan on upgrading the pump to a 255 so....?

Probably because he doesnt know what hes talking about. Its required on larger fuel pumps. Plus knowing your fuel pressure and having consistent fuel pressure is pretty important on boosted cars. Another thing is you can raise fuel pressure to the 43.5psi that injectors are rated at, or higher to get more out of your current injectors.

Will i be safe with the auto cams with all mentioned upgrades(mods), or should i def upgrade cams? if i can get away with it, it would be nice, but i want to do everything right for my Talon.
Goals for car is mainly track( to go fast), but i will still drive it on the weekends atleast.

The cams are fine for now, id take care of your current list as it is already pretty hefty and will take quite a few weekends and alot of beer haha.
 
Ya i think i'm going to go with the AFPR. Hey if he doesn't touch it anymore i'll always have DSMTuners.com!!!!!!!!haha
Anyways still slightly tossed up on loaction of gm maf. Is there any major differnces where its put? One way better then the other? just for a different type of tune maybe?

YES. There is a difference to the location and not just for BOV purposes. If you put the maf in the stock location and, you have a coupling blow off or have a massive intake leak due to coupling problems, your car will not be drivable due to the leak. By putting the maf sensor just before the throttle body, if you have a boost leak before the sensor (now sitting just before your throttle body) you can still drive the car to get you home and assess the problem. You can still recirculate with a gm sensor located just before the throttle body as well. If you do not recirculate, it will not matter due to the air being metered just before the throttle body but, after the BOV.
 
All your suggested mods are must haves. I would suggest looking at the classified before buying brand new. Since those mods are plentiful, you might be able to pick them up for a good deal.

Ian
 
YES. There is a difference to the location and not just for BOV purposes. If you put the maf in the stock location and, you have a coupling blow off or have a massive intake leak due to coupling problems, your car will not be drivable due to the leak. By putting the maf sensor just before the throttle body, if you have a boost leak before the sensor (now sitting just before your throttle body) you can still drive the car to get you home and assess the problem. You can still recirculate with a gm sensor located just before the throttle body as well. If you do not recirculate, it will not matter due to the air being metered just before the throttle body but, after the BOV.

Wow never would of even thought of that one, thanks.

All your suggested mods are must haves. I would suggest looking at the classified before buying brand new. Since those mods are plentiful, you might be able to pick them up for a good deal.

Ian

Thanks, but a got a thing about "used" parts. i know there is some "new" parts in the classifieds but thats not for me, unless i can't find the part ANYWHERE else like a 1g AWD sending unit, which i bought threw the classifieds....i buy brand new.:thumb:

O ya, i think everyone in here including myself forgot one thing i will need.....ARP Head studs!
 
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Its all together! Ended up having to do piston and rings. Besides the rebuilt TB i got, everything works great. Runs good, had a guy from McBrides hidden horsepower out of dover give it a stock tune....after he found that the FIAV was not working properly on the "new" rebuilt TB that i got from a guy threw the classifieds on tuners.....Gonna give it a few hundred miles and take it to the dyno eventually...

Whats a good spark gap? i swapped my plugs with NGK brp6ey. I gaped to .029 on a auto zone gap gauge(round coin like). Now misses frequently. Also if im crusing or gradually accel. it cuts in and out(like a stutter), but if i go a bit faster then gradual(not floor it) its fine. could this have to do with the plugs??????

Ran fine before i did plugs...Is there a more accurate way to gap plugs?Wrong gap?
 
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Looked a bit more into it. Looked at DTC on link, Airflow meter connection(or something like that) code 12. Same time i did the plugs i also changed the oil and removed upper ic pipe to install a fan. I also have a rewired stock maf plug(had a broken wire to close to the plug, had to change entire plug).
I checked the rewire, it looked great. While in the process of unplugging the ecm link maf cable from the stock maf plug, i some how managed to pull the wires from the ecm plug. Im currently waiting to see if i can get a diagram to rewire the pug. So maybe the wires were already partially loose, and hopefully this is my current problem....
Day old plugs about 40 or so miles were black. I dont know link, i have wideband but it bounces every where all the time?Was supposed to be a stock tune for my injectors and maf ect... Why burning rich?
Is the higher the number on the wideband gauge mean the hotter it is? where should it be on a pull, does it change with amount of boost?


Mod list on profile
 
Does anyone know if there is or even such a thing as an Automatic CAM 1/4 mile record? Sounds kinda stupid, but just curious due to my current setup and i dont have the money to upgrade......Now that i think about it i guess any person can just throw some auto cams in and crush the possible record....
 
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