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Need help with tuning, no idea what I am doing.

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Captn

10+ Year Contributor
66
0
Oct 16, 2011
Wauwatosa, Wisconsin
So as the title states I need a lot of help, I would just like for the car to run ok so I can get it to a tuner.

I just got a new wideband 02 sensor, last one died and I am not sure why.

Runs rich right now, and no matter what I do it always runs rich unless its dieing.

I am going to post a log so you all can see.

I have a lot of things done to the car and they are all in my profile. I think the only thing that's wrong is my fuel pump in the profile. I have a evo 9 rewired pump in the car now, not an Aeromotive.

I don't have access to the ECMlink forums, I emailed the admin but its Xmas and everyone is probably off!

If anyone can help me that would be great again I don't have the best knowledge with tuning I am just trying to get it at a safe drive-able state to get it to a tuner, which is about 100 miles away.
 

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Just from first glance, your throttle position is out of wack. Unless you have your foot on the gas slightly, but you're sitting at 2% TPS currently.

Also, it's not fully warmed up. Have you set your idle? Your airflow seems messed up as well. In your second log it also appears that your o2 is dead. What's your fuel pressure set at as well?

Honestly we need more logged, IAC would be a good one to have in there as well as a few others. It's pretty bare with what you have.
 
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Not longer, just more info. You should have closed loop operation, IPS, IAC, etc. You hardly have anything. Have you done any boost leak tests? It shouldn't die with the TPS at factory, so somethings wrong that you need to figure out.
 
I did everything in the first video before, I did not see any changes.

I really don't know whats going on with this car!

Sad thing is its my only car I need it to work properly very badly.

I noticed that I have the simulate idle switch from tps clicked on, but in my log it shows as 0 still...

What would cause that a Bad tps?
 
I was debating about that. However, you have the Idle switch simulated from the TPS and it would only show a 1 when you hit 0% TPS. you could try disabling the simulation, add CombFT to the logs and maybe try to do the TPS adjust again. Post a log after that and I'll help as best I can. I'm very weary of not having a BLT done, as a boost leak to me is a vacuum leak at idle.
 
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I was debating about that. However, you have the Idle switch simulated from the TPS and it would only show a 1 when you hit 0% TPS. you could try disabling the simulation, add CombFT to the logs and maybe try to do the TPS adjust again. Post a log after that and I'll help as best I can. I'm very weary of not having a BLT done, as a boost leak to me is a vacuum leak at idle.

This.

Since you're not hitting 0% throttle it can't simulate the IPS. That's probably part of the reason why it's idling so high. How far is your BISS in adjustment? If it's turned all the way in it *could* cause it to die when the IPS activates idle RPM as it doesn't have enough air to run.

A boost leak test is essential. Honestly that's probably one of your biggest problems right now. Spend the $15 to build one and find any you have.
 
Build the tester, than find a gas station with a free air station. You'd laugh at how many times I had to do that before getting a compressor worthy of filling the intake tract.

A good starter setting is 2 full turns out from bottomed out.
 
The TPS adjust only adjusts the electronic 0% and 100% of the throttle position sensor. You need to adjust the biss screw to allow enough air to keep the car running then do the TPS adjust in link again and get it closer to zero.
 
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Awesome thanks. I will take care of this all today, I'll post the results of the boost leak test and if everything checks out I'll post another log.

Thanks all for the help I am sure I will be needed more however.

Darn its cold up here!
 
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Make sure when you do your BLT that it'll hold at least 5 psi above your set boost, then hold that pressure for at least 20 seconds or so before falling. For some reason everyone thinks that as long as they can build pressure and it doesn't immediately drop to zero it's all good, not so much the case though.

BLT in the snow suck ROFL. That's why I moved to AZ
 
Yeah the gauge on my tester is broken... and the first gas station I tried had a pressure adjustment but it wouldn't respond to my tester?

I did the BISS the way you stated, still doing the same thing.
 
First off being your a proven member this should be in the ECMlink Tuning & Log File Advice - DSM Forums section.

As well and secondly It's not a bad Idea to look this over http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...efore-you-ask-ecmlink-dsmlink-log-advice.html

Just to make sure it's all taken care of as regardless of who tunes the car. You or someone else it will all needs to be all addressed. Or you will be casuing you tail so to speak and it kind of makes a point on why everyone is asking you to do a BLT etc.

Third, there are quite a few values to be logged that you should add in to be captured.

I'd start with these. and make sure you get your wideband setup as well.

Baro
LTFT low
LTFT Hi
LFTT Mid
STFT
Combined FT
WB factor
Octane
TPS Delta
Maf Raw
Maf Comp
Horsepower
Torque
StockOLFT
SmothRPM
Offsetcoolanttemp
MIL
LrndIdleadjust
Battery
ISC position

After all that you should have some info and will be able to get a tune I'm sure :thumb:
 
Thanks for that.

The car has been sitting for a long time and I haven't been on the forums but you're right I should know to search before I post.


Ok, I just got back from the gas station, I hear a leak from my turbo, thats all I can hear.

I couldn't feel anything from anywhere else but! I found a beat to hell honey comb stuck in my maf... Runs much better now.

Still have to address the leak, and find others with more time. This time of day is a busy one for using the free air at Mobil... People are not in the holiday spirit anymore!

Disregard those logs please.
 

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