Need Help With Trans Assembly..

[duwackerTSi69]

Okay, I am in the middle of putting my awd manual trans together.. Some of you may know that I had a big crack in the bellhousing and when I swapped them over, I messed up the intermediate shaft threads?? I got the new shaft and its ready to go together..I do have a good Genuine Mitsubishi Service Manual but I forgot them at my buddy's house and he is not home at the moment and wont be for a few days?? So here goes..
PIC #1. What way does this gear sit? I kinda figured that it would go the way I have it so a gear puller could be used? Or do I turn it around??
PIC#2. I was wondering where I could get new replacement steel bearing balls that keep the shaft for the Xfer case fom falling out??
PIC#3. I cant figure out what way these hubs sit on there gear stacks? If you look closely on each side of the slider hub, there is diff angles and one side has more material then opposite side.. I do know that the slider hub on top is for the input shaft.. So do I put the hub on the shaft with the side that has more material facing upwards or just the opposite? And does that apply to the other slider hub also??

Thanks alot fellas, Im trying to get this thing together today so I can put it in the car tomorrow??

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Pic 1: Just like you have it there.
Pic 2: JNZTUNING.net JNZ Tuning Online- OEM Mitsubishi Parts Part# MF540008
Pic 3: The Slider for 3rd and 4th gear the side with more of an angle to it goes towards 4th gear which is the smaller gear side of the hub. The other one for 5th and Reverse goes on with the more of an angle side towards 5th gear

Here are some pics:

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[duwackerTSi69]

Thank you, thank you....Perfect reply....

 

[duwackerTSi69]

Okay, now I have another problem?? When I get the gear stacks in place and all the other internal things together, then put the big center casing on i run into a problem with the next small casing.. When I get it in place it doesnt want to go all the way on, looking at the input and intermediate shaft from above it looks like the inter shaft is off center and the bearings dont wanna go evenly on the bearing race?? I was told by a few other members that the intermediate shafts are the same from early 91-99 awd's.. Here is a pic of the one shaft I messed up and my new one. The one on the left has 3 markings on the gear and the one on right only has 1. They both measure the same and have same tooth count, im just thinking my problem has something to do with it?? Anyone with this kinda experience please feel free to give your 2cents.. Thanks

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Make sure when you put the shafts in the casing that they are meshing properly. I'm not sure about what parts you can exchange from year to year.

 

[94Jettameowpsst]

Where's shep to chime in when ya need em

I have never, nor will i ever take a tranny apart....too much stuff :<

 

[luv2rallye]

Something is not lining up or meshed correctly. Are the races in their proper spots? A couple are the same diameter but different thickness and cannot be switched or they won't seat completely. Is the reverse idler gear shaft mounting hole pointed away from the input shaft (toward where it's holding bolt will come thru the housing)? Here's some more tips:
Dre.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...build-dsm-fwd-transmission.html#post151757065.

DSM 2g gear set identification: Transmission Videos

Also take the time to do the preload spacer (shim) measurements as per manual. It will make all the difference in shifting (and you will hate yourself later if you didn't do this).

And before installing replace the clutch fork and make sure the clutch fork pivot ball is properly shimmed (again you will hate yourself later if you didn't do this). Jacks trannsmission has a good video on this and proper clutch adjustment.

 

[twicks69]

Okay, now I have another problem?? When I get the gear stacks in place and all the other internal things together, then put the big center casing on i run into a problem with the next small casing.. When I get it in place it doesnt want to go all the way on, looking at the input and intermediate shaft from above it looks like the inter shaft is off center and the bearings dont wanna go evenly on the bearing race?? I was told by a few other members that the intermediate shafts are the same from early 91-99 awd's.. Here is a pic of the one shaft I messed up and my new one. The one on the left has 3 markings on the gear and the one on right only has 1. They both measure the same and have same tooth count, im just thinking my problem has something to do with it?? Anyone with this kinda experience please feel free to give your 2cents.. Thanks

The one with 3 markings is for 91-99 vehicles. This part has a different pitch, and gear face thickness than the shaft with 1 mark on the 3rd gear casting. They are not interchangable.

Yes, this is your problem. Your old shaft had 3 detents on the 3rd gear casting, correct?

Which part number do you have associated with your intermediate shaft that you ordered? The one you ordered (with 1 detent on the gear face) is wrong, and will not work in your application.

These are the part numbers for the intermediate shafts for an AWD:

1990-1991.5 shaft: 1 marking on shaft, 2 oiling holes -->MD740193
1991.5-1999 shaft: 3 markings on shaft, 4 oiling holes -->MD748830 (the old part number would be MD738952 which has been revised to the other number listed)

Let me know if you need a new shaft ordered as I do get a decent price on these parts.

Just remember, I did offer to rebuild your transmission.



The 5th intermediate gear goes on with the flange facing out -- this surface is how you are supposed to pull the gear off using a gear splitter and a push-puller.

The viscous coupler detent ball is (MF540008), and the viscous coupler snapring is(MD720687).

The 5th/Reverse hub goes on with the oiling grooves facing 5th gear, and the flat machined surface facing towards reverse. The slider for 5th/reverse can be installed either way as this is the only slider that can be flipped. Put the side with less wear facing the 5th gear side.

Here is something you could have found with alot of searching:
http://gallery.indystars.org/d/14991-2/DSM_Manual_Tranny_Repair_School.pdf

This should answer most of your needs. Otherwise, with a bit of time you could have found other rebuild manuals. I feel it is effective to PHOTOGRAPH the shafts before disassembly if you are new to the game so that you can properly put them back together, noting orientations of sliders.

 

[ali]

you are a brave man my friend, I will never take a tranny apart

 

[duwackerTSi69]

Where's shep to chime in when ya need em

I have never, nor will i ever take a tranny apart....too much stuff :<

Its not that bad..Im just real big on learning things by being "hands on", that way one day I can help out a friend or fix my own things instead of always paying someone. One of these days ill get it in the car, especially after all this Trial and Error??

Something is not lining up or meshed correctly. Are the races in their proper spots? A couple are the same diameter but different thickness and cannot be switched or they won't seat completely. Is the reverse idler gear shaft mounting hole pointed away from the input shaft (toward where it's holding bolt will come thru the housing)? Here's some more tips:
Dre.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...build-dsm-fwd-transmission.html#post151757065.

DSM 2g gear set identification: Transmission Videos

Also take the time to do the preload spacer (shim) measurements as per manual. It will make all the difference in shifting (and you will hate yourself later if you didn't do this).

And before installing replace the clutch fork and make sure the clutch fork pivot ball is properly shimmed (again you will hate yourself later if you didn't do this). Jacks trannsmission has a good video on this and proper clutch adjustment.

Everything seems to be meshing ok, and I am sure the bearing races are in their rightfull homes? And about the shimming, I havnt got to that part yet. I was just doing a mock-up of putting this thing together to make sure it would come together?? But I guess not now.

The one with 3 markings is for 91-99 vehicles. This part has a different pitch, and gear face thickness than the shaft with 1 mark on the 3rd gear casting. They are not interchangable.

Yes, this is your problem. Your old shaft had 3 detents on the 3rd gear casting, correct?

Which part number do you have associated with your intermediate shaft that you ordered? The one you ordered (with 1 detent on the gear face) is wrong, and will not work in your application.

These are the part numbers for the intermediate shafts for an AWD:

1990-1991.5 shaft: 1 marking on shaft, 2 oiling holes -->MD740193
1991.5-1999 shaft: 3 markings on shaft, 4 oiling holes -->MD748830 (the old part number would be MD738952 which has been revised to the other number listed)

Let me know if you need a new shaft ordered as I do get a decent price on these parts.

Just remember, I did offer to rebuild your transmission.



The 5th intermediate gear goes on with the flange facing out -- this surface is how you are supposed to pull the gear off using a gear splitter and a push-puller.

The viscous coupler detent ball is (MF540008), and the viscous coupler snapring is(MD720687).

The 5th/Reverse hub goes on with the oiling grooves facing 5th gear, and the flat machined surface facing towards reverse. The slider for 5th/reverse can be installed either way as this is the only slider that can be flipped. Put the side with less wear facing the 5th gear side.

Here is something you could have found with alot of searching:
http://gallery.indystars.org/d/14991-2/DSM_Manual_Tranny_Repair_School.pdf

This should answer most of your needs. Otherwise, with a bit of time you could have found other rebuild manuals. I feel it is effective to PHOTOGRAPH the shafts before disassembly if you are new to the game so that you can properly put them back together, noting orientations of sliders.

Yes, my old shaft had 3 mrks on the gear, and the new one I ordered is the one you talked about befor! "1990-1991.5 shaft: 1 marking on shaft, 2 oiling holes -->MD740193". This is the one I ordered, matter of fact I ordered the 91.5-99, but they sent this one to me by mistake? I will check back tomorrow to see if I can exchange it for the newer one? If not, do you have a need for this shaft, and or would consider a trade for the correct one I need??Think about it, you know you want to!! If not whats a decent price if I need to get one again? And I did do a quick search But nothing was relavent to my question.. And I honestly realy didnt want to take on this project myself because of the lack of knowledge I have for drivetrain components, but I decided to take off some casings just to see what was just behind the other side and I was ike ""thats it", "I can do this","it cant be that hard".... If all else fails I think we'll have to mark a date on the calender and try and make my way to your house so you can help me out with this thing??

you are a brave man my friend, I will never take a tranny apart

No, im not brave. Im just real Optimistic!! You should have seen me when I was a kid and got those Link In Log sets, K-Nex.. And the one my mother feared the most, LEGOS..



Thanks to all for their help..

 

[finnie3d]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but my question is similar enough to avoid starting a new one I think.

Broke the TOB Collar on my Shep Built FWD Trans (lucky me right?!) Anyway, sourced another 1G FWD Trans just for the case. Swapped all of the internals over and when I put the mid-case in place, there is a roughly 1/2" to 1" gap between the mating surfaces on one side. i have a "see-saw" type effect - if the diff side is flush, the shifter side is gapped and vice-versa. It seems to pivot somewhere between the input shaft and intermediate shaft.

I feel like it may be one small detail I missed with the reinstall (maybe having to do with the shift lever, or the gear position?) It's only my 2nd time going inside a DSM trans. Has anyone else experienced this before that can tell me what I"m missing? Thanks in advance.