Need help safely upping boost

[hottboost]

You could check that but normally Pk will show up at like part throttle and then you will be fine at wot. You could be right about high elevation but Im still curious as to what your a/f ratios are?

 

[kenamond]

You could check that but normally Pk will show up at like part throttle and then you will be fine at wot. You could be right about high elevation but Im still curious as to what your a/f ratios are?

Are you saying that this might be knock due to too rich or too lean? I thought the timing map was mass flow vs RPM (nothing about fuel), so do you just want the a/f to get some idea of the mass flowrate?. I don't smell gas, no black smoke, and get 20+mpg cruising, so I'm not super rich.

You happen to know how the ECU converts the MAS Hz and temp sensor output to mass flowrate? Doesn't it also need to know a pressure (is there a MAP sensor on the IM?)

I won't have WB for a while. Still need an exhaust, and I was hoping on pushing the car to the limits of the stock fuel system (or fuel cut) before I got WB+DSMlink. Then I was gonna tune it up on stock fuel system until I got $$ for fuel upgrades (and get used to tuning and DSMLink). Then I'd push it to the limits of the SMIC and reevaluate where I'd go from there.

I'll get around to checking the knock sensor for goo and doing a compression test, but I'm just demoralized right now (from dinging my car Saturday). Gotta let this mood pass.

 

[hottboost]

Im not sure when it comes to the effects of elevation. Ill have to do some research to see if the timing map is mass flow Vs rpms. It will help to see the a/f ratios to see if it is a lean or rich condition. right now its just a process of elimination. Excellent question. Ill give rep points!! From what I can see your exactly right.

 

[kenamond]

Alright. I did a compression test tonight after buffing all of the white paint scrapes off of my rear bumper cover. Was a dry test, fully warmed up. I went 6 cycles each time (12 revs). These were at 7500ft elevation (according to Google Earth):

#1: 141 #2: 134 #3: 131 #4: 134

At 7500ft, you need to divide by 0.8 (found at this link, though I've seen the same number on another site). This gives:

#1: 176 #2: 168 #3: 164 #4: 168

#1 and #3 are off by 12psi, so I'm wondering if there is carbon buildup in #1, but if that's just under the "perfect" compression of 178psi, then I wouldn't think that it would cause knock unless it was from hotspots in the deposits.

Things to note: Oil cap is leaking slightly. Maybe 1cc of oil on the VC. The plugs were very loose. Definitely not at 18ft-lb. All 4 were like that. They were maybe 5ft-lb or so, but snug. Almost dookied in my Haynes when I pulled the compression tester off of #4 without relieving the pressure.

All 4 plugs looked identical. I had let the motor idle for about 10-15 minutes to get it warm, so I don't know if that can change the appearance from how they'd look when the motor was shut down when I first got home, though I wasn't getting on it at all coming home from work (maybe 5psi max boost a couple times). The plugs were light brown-orange. The tips looked great. All plugs but #1 had the brown-orange blown off of the side of the outer electrode (the bent one - dunno what it's called) on one side so that the metal was sort of black, but there was not any pitting or abnormal texture on the surface. I have pics, but haven't downloaded them yet. The plugs aren't NGK, they're Bosch, and I forget the number. When I changed them last summer I just went to Autozone, told them my car, and they gave me those plugs and Bosch 7mm plug wires.

When pulling the #4 plug cap, the wire broke, so I'll get a new set tomorrow along with NGK BPR6E plugs. I recall everyone here suggesting BPR6ES, but my Haynes manual had two other letters in place of the last S.

I won't know if the loose-ish plugs had any effect until I get new wires/plugs. I'm thinking of gapping them to 0.028" just because I'm running a bit higher boost than stock. But I'm wondering if the higher elevation would warrant a larger gap...dunno.

The motor was pretty hot when I decided to check the knock sensor for goo, but I was able to see it *almost* all the way looking at it from the driver's side near the windshield crouched down so that I was just peeking over the strut tower. I could see it, but I couldn't get the flashlight to illuminate the end very well, but I didn't see any goo. I'll reach in tomorrow and feel for goo. Just to make sure, there was a raised cylinder cast into and protruding from the back-center of the block with a fairly large, silver nut (maybe 7/8" or so) with rubber in the end and a wire coming out and going straight up (couldn't see any of the wire except right were it came out of the sensor). Is that it?

So the next task is the seafoam treatment. Then I'll rewire the FP.

 

[hottboost]

Good deal. Be real careful with the seafoam treatment!!! If I were you I would use
BPR7ES NGK plugs. their advance part # is 2023! Just ask for the part #. Set your gap to 028!

 

[kenamond]

Good deal. Be real careful with the seafoam treatment!!! If I were you I would use
BPR7ES NGK plugs. their advance part # is 2023! Just ask for the part #. If you are going to run less than 20PSI gap them at 030 and if your over 20psi then use 028!

The 7s are a cooler plug, right?

I picked up a new set of plug wires today at Autozone, and the guy's gonna let me refund the other set even though I got them 2 years ago (thought it was last summer, but must've been 2 summers ago), so that's cool. Since the wires only had 500 miles on them (didn't install them until I upgraded my turbo 2 months ago), I think he figured he'd trick the system and give me a break. They didn't carry NGK, so I went to NAPA. The guy there found that the stock NGK for the 2g is BKR6EHK or something (I know my Haynes manual had the HK at the end, but I didn't notice the "BK" instead of "BP". He said the BPR6ES was the 1g stock plug. So with the higher 2g compression ratio, you need a cooler plug, and that's why you're suggesting 7s?

Not sure what gap I should run with the plugs I ended up buying.

I'll leave the Bosch plugs in there until the seafoam treatment, since they recommend changing the plugs and oil afterward. Kinda sucks I gotta change the oil, since it's got 500 miles on it, and it's Mobil 1 Synth (not all that cheap).

Anyway, I got what I got, so unless someone tells me those plugs will cause problems, I'm gonna stick with them.

Looked under the corner of the car where the car hit the building and noticed the rear frame rail on the passenger side is buckled. Whole corner of the car is pushed up half an inch or so. I'll get it fixed, but probably not until I get most of my power mods out of the way. Still need a new front bumper cover, too, but I'll probably wait until FMIC-time so I can hack away at the cracked one to figure out where to cut.

What a saga.

 

[hottboost]

I feel for ya man. Now I may be wrong but the stock plug for the 2G is BPR6ES. And yes the 7ES is a cooler plug. At your boost level it shouldnt hurt ya but if or when you start heading toward the 18-20PSI area you should want the BPR7ES plugs. Let me check!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233421&highlight=Stock+2G+spark+plug

This should help ya! Your gap should be 028 with all the plugs.

 

[kenamond]

Did the seafoam treatment tonight. Kinda freaked me out. It was sucking that stuff up so fast that my wife couldn't keep the revs up very easily. At one point smoke started coming up from around the ex. mani. area. Car seemed to run well when I was burning the seafoam out, so I'm hoping nothing bad happened.

Was a bit late to change the oil, and I didn't change the plugs yet, because I want to trade the BKR6ES for BPR6ESs tomorrow. Then I'll repeat the compression test, put in the new plugs, and change the oil. I'll gap to 0.028" unless someone convinces me otherwise.

Depending on the weather, I'll do another 15psi 3rd gear pull and see how my timing looks.

All I can figure at this point is that I have hotspots. My compression wasn't high enough for me to blame that, but the high compression in #1 makes me wonder how much carbon buildup I had in there.

If I still see knock, I'll add the rest of the NOS nitromethane octane booster and do another pull. I have about a gallon of gas in the tank, so the remaining 6-or-so oz in the NOS can should boost the octane a fair amount.

 

[hottboost]

Good deal. Post back when you pull your log. Yeah the seafoam treatment can be a little scary!

 

[kenamond]

Warmed up the motor and did another compression test before I swapped in the BPR6ES plugs. I'm not sure if I'm doing this right. I turned the motor over 6x (6 thumps) and looked at my #4 reading. 132psi which converts to 165psi - pretty close to what I saw last compression test. Then I went another 5 thumps. Pressure went up, so I did 5 more. Went up a tiny bit more, so I called it good. All the rest I did 12 thumps, waited about 30sec to a minute to let the starter cool, then I did another 10. Here were the final, converted readings (divide by 0.8 for 7500ft elevation):

#1: 186.25 (raw reading: 149)
#2: 177.50 (raw reading: 142)
#3: 181.25 (raw reading: 145)
#4: 175.00 (raw reading: 140)

Am I doing this right? Ugh.

Anyway, gapped the plugs to 0.028" and installed them and went out to do a pull. Was 15psi boost again. Dropped to 11-12psi by 7k rpm.

RPM Timing O2v
2040.0 23.0 0.90
2088.0 23.0 0.90
2144.0 23.0 0.90
2196.0 23.0 0.90
2252.0 24.0 0.90
2304.0 24.0 0.90
2364.0 24.0 0.90
2412.0 24.0 0.90
2468.0 24.0 0.90
2524.0 24.0 0.90
2576.0 23.0 0.90
2628.0 22.0 0.90
2688.0 22.0 0.90
2756.0 22.0 0.90
2824.0 20.0 0.90
2900.0 17.0 0.92
2972.0 16.0 0.92
3076.0 15.0 0.92
3176.0 11.0 0.92
3284.0 10.0 0.92
3392.0 10.0 0.92
3640.0 10.0 0.92
3792.0 11.0 0.92
3936.0 11.0 0.92
4096.0 12.0 0.92
4256.0 11.0 0.92
4416.0 11.0 0.92
4564.0 12.0 0.92
4720.0 13.0 0.92
4860.0 13.0 0.92
5000.0 14.0 0.92
5112.0 14.0 0.92
5228.0 15.0 0.92
5368.0 16.0 0.92
5476.0 16.0 0.92
5596.0 16.0 0.90
5720.0 18.0 0.90
5824.0 18.0 0.90
5924.0 18.0 0.90
6016.0 20.0 0.90
6112.0 20.0 0.90
6192.0 20.0 0.88
6312.0 20.0 0.88
6388.0 19.0 0.88
6440.0 20.0 0.88
6508.0 21.0 0.86
6564.0 22.0 0.84
6632.0 22.0 0.82
6664.0 22.0 0.80
6736.0 22.0 0.76
6784.0 22.0 0.70
6844.0 22.0 0.64
6892.0 22.0 0.60
6928.0 22.0 0.58
6980.0 23.0 0.56

Still seeing timing dips at 4200 and 6280, and I was leaning out again past 6400rpm.

I have everything out to do the FP rewire, but I realized that 10ga wire is THICK, and my heavy duty soldering iron wasn't able to heat it up well enough to solder anything. I'll get 10ga butt connectors tomorrow and use a propane torch to solder the connectors on.

I'm afraid to do seafoam again. But I'm considering atleast pulling the plugs on a hot motor and dumping some in each cylinder and letting it sit for 15mins. My "old" plugs (2 years and maybe 10k miles) looked fine after 2 days of driving on them after the seafoam spectacle (rusty-brown-tan like when I pulled them for the previous compression test), so I can use them to burn the seafoam out without worrying about fouling the new NGKs. Yay - backup plugs! I could do 10 treatments like that, as I still have another full can of seafoam.

Still haven't changed the oil. I don't understand why folks say you should change oil after a seafoam treatment; you can add it to your oil if you want to, right? So what's the problem with some of it blowing by?

Also, I noticed that the car is missing ever so slightly. Does it maybe every 5-10 seconds at idle or at 2500rpm in neutral. Still seems to pull well, though. Could that be related to plug gap?

So it looks like nothing so far has affected my timing dips.

 

[hottboost]

I wouldnt do another seafoam treatment. I did change my oil when I did mine. It was time to. The only thing I can see it being is the fuel pump. It seems as you get in the high rpm range where the volts can vary to the FP thats where its starts to pull. If the rewire dont do it I would be suprised. Compression looks good. Also your 02 reading drops pretty low above 6500 rpms. I have never seen mine below 0.90 all the way to redline. Just a guess ya might want to change the 02 sensor also.

 

[kenamond]

I wouldnt do another seafoam treatment. I did change my oil when I did mine. It was time to. The only thing I can see it being is the fuel pump. It seems as you get in the high rpm range where the volts can vary to the FP thats where its starts to pull. If the rewire dont do it I would be suprised. Compression looks good. Also your 02 reading drops pretty low above 6500 rpms. I have never seen mine below 0.90 all the way to redline. Just a guess ya might want to change the 02 sensor also.

I've seen the O2v drop on two of the 3 15psi pulls I did. It was 10-15* cooler last night, too, so I'm thinking my FP isn't able to keep up at high revs with that much boost. But I have no idea why it'd have trouble at 4200 where I'm not flowing nearly as much air. The O2v usually tapers off to about 0.88 or 0.86 at redline on 9psi pulls. My plugs don't look like I've been running lean, so I'm thinking I'm okay there as long as I'm not hitting much beyond 6k rpm in 3rd which I don't hit except on late night pulls.

I'm still puzzled by the compression numbers. You don't think they're abnormal?

Do you think sea foam through the plug holes is a bad idea? I just don't want to suck the stuff in through a vac line again...quite annerving. If I have carbon deposits, I want them out. I wish I could trust my compression test results, but I don't, so I don't know if it's high, low, normal, whatever. If it was high, I'd suspect carbon buildup and work to get rid of it, because it could be causing the knock. So I'm still pretty much blind on that front.

Any thoughts on the missing? Should I increase/decrease the gap from 0.028"? Doesn't take any time, so maybe I'll gap to 0.030" like I had my Bosch plugs (car didn't miss on those plugs). I'm thinking the high altitude thins the air making it easier for the spark to jump than at sea level, so a slightly larger gap would make sense.

I picked up the 10ga butt connectors today, and I'll work on the FP rewire over the next couple of nights, depending on how much time I can devote to it (2 young kids+wife+house=little time).

 

[JayRolla]

I thougt 185 is perfect compression for 2g pistons? Also that last log looks pretty good, you only had one spot that dropped timing. Hope to hear about the rewire and see if it helps because im thinking of doing it too. With the 2g pistons I cant seem to run more than 13psi witout knock

Its crazy how the 1g timing map is so more aggresive. I never hit below 18* when boost hits. Im going to set my base timing back to 2-3* to see if that lowers my timing advance.

 

[matt97gst]

You're running lean, and so pulling timing, and so your "timing dips" Stop messing with all that other stuff and get your fuel pump, injectors, and whatever you want to tune with, probably dsmlink. If you do that, I'm 95% sure I'll get to say "I told you so"

Also, I wouldn't worry about your compression - it's way above the service limit to worry.

We'll see if the rewire works, but you may as well put a 190lph in there before the rewire - if not you'll end up doing it later.

 

[hottboost]

I've seen the O2v drop on two of the 3 15psi pulls I did. It was 10-15* cooler last night, too, so I'm thinking my FP isn't able to keep up at high revs with that much boost. But I have no idea why it'd have trouble at 4200 where I'm not flowing nearly as much air. The O2v usually tapers off to about 0.88 or 0.86 at redline on 9psi pulls. My plugs don't look like I've been running lean, so I'm thinking I'm okay there as long as I'm not hitting much beyond 6k rpm in 3rd which I don't hit except on late night pulls.

I'm still puzzled by the compression numbers. You don't think they're abnormal?

Do you think sea foam through the plug holes is a bad idea? I just don't want to suck the stuff in through a vac line again...quite annerving. If I have carbon deposits, I want them out. I wish I could trust my compression test results, but I don't, so I don't know if it's high, low, normal, whatever. If it was high, I'd suspect carbon buildup and work to get rid of it, because it could be causing the knock. So I'm still pretty much blind on that front.

Any thoughts on the missing? Should I increase/decrease the gap from 0.028"? Doesn't take any time, so maybe I'll gap to 0.030" like I had my Bosch plugs (car didn't miss on those plugs). I'm thinking the high altitude thins the air making it easier for the spark to jump than at sea level, so a slightly larger gap would make sense.

I picked up the 10ga butt connectors today, and I'll work on the FP rewire over the next couple of nights, depending on how much time I can devote to it (2 young kids+wife+house=little time).

It cant hurt to try to change the gap 030. Its easy enough to change back. Again I think the fuel pump will make a big difference. I dont think your compression is all that bad for a motor 9 years old.

 

[kenamond]

You're running lean, and so pulling timing, and so your "timing dips" Stop messing with all that other stuff and get your fuel pump, injectors, and whatever you want to tune with, probably dsmlink. If you do that, I'm 95% sure I'll get to say "I told you so"

Also, I wouldn't worry about your compression - it's way above the service limit to worry.

We'll see if the rewire works, but you may as well put a 190lph in there before the rewire - if not you'll end up doing it later.

Please, read the rest of this thread. It's long, but a lot has been covered. I get timing dips without going lean at 15psi (previous log in this thread - I did 2 pulls, one went lean, the other didn't (I suspect my SMIC was hot the 2nd pull which didn't lean out, because I actually did half a pull between the first and 2nd logs, so I had 2 pulls on the SMIC with maybe a minute between each), and I get them running 9psi. I realize that I need the pump rewire (said that a few times in this thread), and I know that at 15psi, I'm leaning out past 6400rpm sometimes (said that already, too). I have everything I need for the FP rewire now, and I'll be doing it this week. That should help on the top end, because I'm not leaning out rediculously.

I'll eventually get fuel upgrades, FMIC, DSMLink, etc., but I need an exhaust and I need to figure out this knock first. And money doesn't grow on the trees around my house, so I gotta do this slowly in some logical order.

The only reason I'm running 15psi right now is because someone recommended I do to get more info on the knock, I didn't see any more knock at 15psi than I did at 9psi, and I'm trying to figure this knock situation out. Tell me why I'm knocking at 9psi and I'll thank you.

And if I have a huge amount of carbon buildup, my compression will be abnormally high, and I might have hotspots, both of which will lead to knock. "Perfect" 2gt compression is 178psi, and I'm above that on 2 cylinders and almost at that on the other two. With 79k on the motor I find it hard to believe that my compression is good (or maybe I didn't do the test correctly - but I posted what I did, so if it's wrong, I'd like to know, and if it's not wrong, I'd like to know).

And I don't see how my FP would have anything to do with my timing dip at 4200rpm. Every single log I've pulled from 9psi to 15psi boost has had timing pulled just after boost hits. The airflow at 4200 is a lot lower than at redline (so sayeth my logger), so if the fuel pump is having problems at 4200, it'd have an even harder time at any rpm over 4200.

So the two big questions I have are:

1) Did I do my compression test correctly?

2) If so, what is the best (safe and effective) method for getting the carbon out of the combustion chamber other than sucking seafoam through a vac line?

 

[matt97gst]

And I don't see how my FP would have anything to do with my timing dip at 4200rpm. Every single log I've pulled from 9psi to 15psi boost has had timing pulled just after boost hits. The airflow at 4200 is a lot lower than at redline (so sayeth my logger), so if the fuel pump is having problems at 4200, it'd have an even harder time at any rpm over 4200.

On my application with a bigt28, I see some of my highest airflow and injector duties right around 4200rpm - power usually tends to fall off a little at higher rpms with the t28. Also, the only knock I've gotten was right after boost hits - never in the higher rpms. That seems to go along with what you said except your airflow keeps raising. I've already read the whole thread, and agree somethings are hard to answer. But I'm still willing to bet once you update your mods - tuning, fuel, exhaust, fmic/or bigger smic your problems will go away w/ dip timing etc.

 

[hottboost]

Carbon deposits can often be removed from engines that are still in service with a chemical "top A cleaner". This type of product is poured into an idling engine through the throttle body. The engine is then shut off so the solvent can soak in and lossen the deposits. When the engine is started the deposits are blown out the combustion chamber. If the chemical cleaning fails to remove the deposits, it may be necessary to pull the head and scrape the deposits off with a wire brush or scraper( be careful not to scratch the head or the engine deck)! Standard is 170-225PSI and the service limit is 100PSI
http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/compression.htm

I have read good things about this product.
http://www.castleproductsonline.com/combustion_chamber_cleaner.html

 

[kenamond]

On my application with a bigt28, I see some of my highest airflow and injector duties right around 4200rpm - power usually tends to fall off a little at higher rpms with the t28. Also, the only knock I've gotten was right after boost hits - never in the higher rpms. That seems to go along with what you said except your airflow keeps raising. I've already read the whole thread, and agree somethings are hard to answer. But I'm still willing to bet once you update your mods - tuning, fuel, exhaust, fmic/or bigger smic your problems will go away w/ dip timing etc.

But why would I knock at 9psi boost? I realize that if I have link and alter my timing maps, I can get rid of knock, but it shouldn't be knocking at 9psi, and I want to make sure nothing is wrong before I go much further.

 

[kenamond]

Carbon deposits can often be removed from engines that are still in service with a chemical "top A cleaner". This type of product is poured into an idling engine through the throttle body. The engine is then shut off so the solvent can soak in and lossen the deposits. When the engine is started the deposits are blown out the combustion chamber. If the chemical cleaning fails to remove the deposits, it may be necessary to pull the head and scrape the deposits off with a wire brush or scraper( be careful not to scratch the head or the engine deck)! Standard is 170-225PSI and the service limit is 100PSI
http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/compression.htm

I have read good things about this product.
http://www.castleproductsonline.com/combustion_chamber_cleaner.html

Sounds like seafoam. I did a seafoam treatment last week. I'm pretty sure I didn't do my compression test right the first time, so I don't know if the seafoam helped or not (can't compare the before and after compression numbers).

I can also pull the plugs on a warmed-up motor and dump some seafoam in there and let it soak on the crowns for 15 minutes, then burn it off in about 10-15 mins of driving. I can repeat that a few times and see if that helps. I can also run fuel additives that will slowly clean up the carbon, but I have no idea how effective they are and how long it takes to make any difference.

I'm about half done with the FP rewire. I got the wire/fuse routed from the battery to under the back seat, but I need to pick up a sheet metal screw to make a grounding point on the body under the seat, so I just left the fuse out and the wire under the seat and buttoned everything back up.

 

[hottboost]

Sounds like seafoam. I did a seafoam treatment last week. I'm pretty sure I didn't do my compression test right the first time, so I don't know if the seafoam helped or not (can't compare the before and after compression numbers).

I can also pull the plugs on a warmed-up motor and dump some seafoam in there and let it soak on the crowns for 15 minutes, then burn it off in about 10-15 mins of driving. I can repeat that a few times and see if that helps. I can also run fuel additives that will slowly clean up the carbon, but I have no idea how effective they are and how long it takes to make any difference.

I'm about half done with the FP rewire. I got the wire/fuse routed from the battery to under the back seat, but I need to pick up a sheet metal screw to make a grounding point on the body under the seat, so I just left the fuse out and the wire under the seat and buttoned everything back up.

Yeah that is basiclly the same way as the seafoam. Those would be the only 2 ways I know to remove carbon deposits. If its bad I honestly dont know how well they would work. Ive did it befor but as part of my routine mant. Well see what happens when you get the fp rewired.

Carl

 

[kenamond]

Yeah that is basiclly the same way as the seafoam. Those would be the only 2 ways I know to remove carbon deposits. If its bad I honestly dont know how well they would work. Ive did it befor but as part of my routine mant. Well see what happens when you get the fp rewired.

Carl

I can do the vac line seafoam again, but I need to get a petcock or something to meter the flow through the vac line. It was sucking WAY too much if I didn't pinch the line, and it frazzled me enough that I'm a bit afraid to do it again. And I'll have to get someone other than my wife to hold the revs up - she almost stalled it a few times and hit the rev limiter once . It frazzled her enough that she probably won't want to do it again anyway.

So you think my last compression test was done correctly?

 

[hottboost]

I can do the vac line seafoam again, but I need to get a petcock or something to meter the flow through the vac line. It was sucking WAY too much if I didn't pinch the line, and it frazzled me enough that I'm a bit afraid to do it again. And I'll have to get someone other than my wife to hold the revs up - she almost stalled it a few times and hit the rev limiter once . It frazzled her enough that she probably won't want to do it again anyway.

So you think my last compression test was done correctly?

Yeah from what I read you sound fine there to me. You actually lost me a little bit with the correction for elevation but after I read it a few times it sunk in The first time I did the seafoam I thought I blew it apart. After you do it a few times it becomes second nature. If you did it right pulling the head may be the only option.

Carl

 

[kenamond]

Yeah from what I read you sound fine there to me. You actually lost me a little bit with the correction for elevation but after I read it a few times it sunk in The first time I did the seafoam I thought I blew it apart. After you do it a few times it becomes second nature. If you did it right pulling the head may be the only option.

Carl

When you did the seafoam, did you pinch the vac line or just dunk it and hammer the throttle to keep it from stalling?

 

[hottboost]

When you did the seafoam, did you pinch the vac line or just dunk it and hammer the throttle to keep it from stalling?

I pinched the line because I was afraid of Hydralocking the motor! I did it when I first bought the car and then again after I did the turbo swap.