Need help!!!EPROM Stutter box blew my stuff up

[shadowdrag]

Does anyone know what makes the stutter box work? I went out to the drags today and right when I floor the car to launch, there was a loud snap at 4500rpm stutter that lead the rpm to redline. The loud snap came from the engine bay, I thought I'd blew the crap out of my motor internals. I safely drove it to the parking lot and saw a belt split in halves when I open up the hood. At first I thought it was the timing belt, but it can't be, there was no smoke out of my exhuast. I checked all over and the timing, alter, and power belts were still attached. I don't know were this belt came from. The part number on the belt is DAYCO 20-5533. What ever it is, my stutter box is dead. I wonder if my motor is still good?

HELP!!!

 

[lasertim]

How high did you rev and how long did you hold it there? The stutter box works with the clutch pedal. When the clutch pedal is all the way in the computer knows to hold the RPMs. If you didnt have it set up correctly you would just rev to the limiter(provided you had one).

That belt is probably alt,ps, or ac if you have it. Is it a cogged belt or ribbed? It is kinda hard to tell in your pic.

 

[shadowdrag]

The first drag, I was able to launch it, Started flooring when the first yellow light came out. I was able to run 13.21. The secound trial, I wasn't able to hold it. It just rev right thru it after the snap. Eprom chip design the stutter box to be set to 4500/5000/5500RPM. I have use it many times. The alt., PS, looks fine. here is another pic.

 

[Syndicate13]

The Keydiver 2 step works just like the stock rev limit, it cuts fuel. It did not cause your belt to shred. Look at the car again, if it shredded and the car still runs normally it's probably the AC belt.

 

[shadowdrag]

Ok, it might be the AC belt because all the front ones look fine when it rotates. The car runs normal but after the snap the stutter box just went away. What causes this rev limit to go away at Eprom chip setting? I was wondering if I blew something else in the motor.

 

[shadowdrag]

Ok, today I just found more stuff. My alternator belt and power steering belt hand a slash cuts and the top layer of the belt started peeling. These belts were just replaced 25k mile ago. Definately, the AC belt is gone, cuase I don't see any belt around the far mid pulley. Is it normal for the timing belt to be some what loose? In between the cam sprockets, belt can be deflected to about almost a half inch and when I start the motor and shut it off, the belt becomes tight again. All belts were done at the dealership 25k miles ago. Is there anything to be looked at instead of just the belts.

 

[andymoraitis]

Jerry,

Belt tension is MUCH more important at the bottom end of the motor. Both Dan (project_tsi) and I have noticed that you can sometimes have a bit of slop between the cam gears that goes away if you start the motor and shut it off again. That's not a problem.

As far as why the stutterbox doesn't work, that may have to do with your speed sensor or pule generator, however that would engage your stutterbox while moving and give you a low rev limit. You might want to write Jeff and ask what might be going on.

Let me know what you find,

Andy

 

[BOOSTn20psi]

If its just your AC and Alternator Belts, it is fairly easy to replace. It will cost you no more than 35 bucks to do. Don't get rape at the dealership.

 

[shadowdrag]

Jerry,

Belt tension is MUCH more important at the bottom end of the motor. Both Dan (project_tsi) and I have noticed that you can sometimes have a bit of slop between the cam gears that goes away if you start the motor and shut it off again. That's not a problem.

As far as why the stutterbox doesn't work, that may have to do with your speed sensor or pule generator, however that would engage your stutterbox while moving and give you a low rev limit. You might want to write Jeff and ask what might be going on.

Let me know what you find,

Andy

Andy thanks for the info. Timing belt is one less problem to deal with than. Ok I just bought the alternator and PS belt. Somehow Autozone gave me a single belt for PS and AC, they said it was a single belt. Is this true? I saw that alternator belt don't look hard to do but what about the PS belt.
Oh, there was a electrical wire that snap loose under the pulley or should I say under the oil filter. I don't no wear it goes.

 

[shadowdrag]

Edit: here is the picture of the wire, does it go to the back of that valve, can't really tell because the harness is cracked in halves. Looking at the picture, the red arrow with the ? indicates what belt.

 

[lasertim]

I know that on a 1g there is a wire that goes to the filter housing that constantly falls off. I am not sure if the 2g has that problem though. Look for a male spade connecter on you filter housing, it is kind of hard to see on a 1g, again not sure about 2g.

 

[andymoraitis]

I know that on a 1g there is a wire that goes to the filter housing that constantly falls off. I am not sure if the 2g has that problem though. Look for a male spade connecter on you filter housing, it is kind of hard to see on a 1g, again not sure about 2g.

That's right. If you have the spade connector, look for a threaded piece on the oil pressure sender (the part protruding from the filter housing). If that's not it, then look for clean threads anywhere on the housing which would be where that wire came from. Also, I just had a look and alternator and PS belts are indeed separate (2 belt system).

 

[shadowdrag]

Thanks guys, I gave up for now. I'll garage my baby until next weekend. For the belt I mark with a question mark? I assume it might be the oil pump or water pump belt not too sure. It looks complicate to take off tho, looks like I have to squeez in between tight spaces to get to the pulleys.

I'll work on it next week, if not I'll just take it in to get it done. I'm a bit to lazy to get dirty