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Need help diagnosing starter issues

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bluegatorade

Proven Member
33
0
May 28, 2013
Auburn, Alabama
Hey guys, I anticipate a lot of heckling but here goes.

91 awd talon. Bought from a guy who rebuilt the motor and it had no miles on the motor. He said he got it to start but it needed tune. This is the description off the Craigslist ad:

1991 eagle talon all wheel drive turbo. 5 speed. Wiseco pistons,
eagle rods, Brian crower cams, adjustable cam gears, 650cc and 1000cc injectors,
Aeromotive fuel regulator, walbro 255 fuel pump, fp exhaust manifold, extra header, 72mm Garrett Turbo,
17inch rims, new CC axels and hub bearings. Have alot of extras to go with car also. Clean car inside and out.
Needs passenger window, lower intercooler pipe, boost controller, radiator and hoses, tune,
and a little other nic nac things. Possible 11 sec car with under a grand. Asking $1800 obo or possible trades.
Looking for mopar. Priced to sell. Lost intrest

"lost interest" turned out to be "knocked her up" LOL
So after putting in the radiator and FMIC I decided it was time to fire it up
He had wired the fuel pump to it's own switch. Flip it on and I hear the pump running. The afpr under the hood says 35lbs.
When I turn the key to start , the starter will engage but never turn over. I hear it click and act like it wants too but it does not succeed. Advanced auto test show the starter and battery were good. I even tried to jump it to no avail.
all the dash lights would also flicker.

First:
correct me if I am wrong about the following " the starter has a large red/black wire to the positive terminal of battery. There is also a black/yellow wire to the solenoid of the starter. This black/yellow becomes two black/yellow wires that terminate to a plug
the two red wires plug into a plug on the firewall.
I just wanted to check about the above because the guy had some interesting wiring going on.

I tried jumping the starter straight off the battery and it would engage but not turn the thing over.

The ecu isn't fried and cel comes on for 5 sec when I turn the switch on. Everything on 12v works(all lights, windows, etc) There is also no voltage to relay with switch on as per haynes manual.

I never told dsmlink to adjust for larger injectors but in my mind that wasn't a deal breaker in reference to turning the motor over. I know that's wrong looking back.

I had no assistant so I was unable to check for spark. I did notice that the afpr would dip down halfway when I attemtped to start the car. Also, should I be hearing a constant flow on the fuel rail when the pump is on?

In conclusion, given the mods above could this be a timing issue?
my cam gears are aftermarket so there aren't any marks. Ive checked all over.



TL;DR:

1. does the black/yellow wire of the starter solenoind become two wires?
2.does fuel pressure drop considerably when starting the car?
3.Should I hear a flowing sound in the fuel rail?
4.Don't post this

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html


5. I tried real hard grammar nazis
6. I plead noob
 
Fuel won't flow until the engine turns.

If you actually sent a direct signal from the battery to the starter then you either have a bad battery, bad wiring, or a bad starter. It's that simple.

There is only one wire, the positive signal line, to the solenoid. It grounds off the chassis.
 
That's why I asked if the starter clicked or turned. He did not quite specify enough for me to accurately make a dission. I must say it is smart to tell ecu the injectors size and save your self the flooding as soon as it does start. Sorry if I miss read something.
 
Have you verified that it CAN be turned over? Maybe you should throw a wrench on the crankshaft (clockwise) to make sure it isn't bound up.
 
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