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my setup...good bad or just plain ugly

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B005T3D_1

10+ Year Contributor
102
0
Aug 28, 2008
Mooresville, North Carolina
I just got my hands on a 1991 eagle talon tsi 5 spd. awd. my question is, is my setup any good and what changes would other people make? Ive got the turbo set at 20 psi.
2g internals
arp hardware
small cam (not much more than stock)
stage1 clutch
16g turbo
internal wastegate
Full Fmic
255 walboro pump
650 injectors
stronger axles front and rear
4 bolt rear swapped from 2g
apexi afc
any help or input would be greatly appreciated and i cant wait to take it to the track, the guy that owned it before me said on a crappy tune he ran it at 12.6 in the quarter mile. I dont know if these numbers sound right or not but if i could tune it a little better i would love to run it at the local muscle hangout.
 
well 1gs had 4 bolt rears also.

Do you have anything to adjust for the bigger injectors? Does it have an Adjustable fuel pressure regulator? if not get em quick. (dsmlink or SAFC for fuel).

Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge? if not get one because how would you know if your at 20psi?

Do have any type of logger to see if your getting knock on that 20psi?

EDIT: It would help to know what kind of cams you have. Also are you sure you have a 16g?
 
Its got a fuel mapping software that i got with it and i also got a palm pilot with it i literally just got it and am going through it. of course i got a boost gauge, thats how i knew what kind of boost it was reaching. when you talk about fuel pressure regulating? are you talking software? its got an apexi afc.... i know its old but it seems to work ok. unless the datalogger is built into the portable programer i dont think its equipped. im not too sure on the cams and the guy i bought it from said it was an 18g but i had another guy look at it and he said it was a 16g. im scheduled to pick the car up on tues. i gota trailer it from a place about an hour away. when i checked it out all i did was drive it and to tell you the truth, thats all it took. ive worked on many many vehicles but its my first experience with an over stock turbo car. ive been reading up on as much as i can but i need help until i get the full picture.
 
like i said before it seems to have a decent tune on it now... the guy that had it before me put a bigger turbo on it and then traded back so he could sell it(not sure what turbo) but he had it tuned when he switched the turbo back i wouldnt say its an all out tune, but more conservative, which as far as im concerned i would love to get someone to tune it and see every pony that itll put out. oh and for the record now that ive driven an awd car i will NEVER own another fwd......EVER
 
me personaly i would run it just to see what happened! but thats just me. its a DSM its gonna break eventually:)

Dont listen to the fool.

I would set it to stock pressure which im not sure off the top of my head.

This site is to get good info. If you want to bench race and give bad info please go to another site.
 
ok...so ive verified that the turbo is indeed a tdo5h evo 3. Ive also verified that unless there is a fpr on the unederside of the car somewhere there is none present. the wideband that you speak of? ive read up on them and am even more lost that before... wideband is sort of a pre tune-tune???? now that ive been through the car and explored a little bit i need to know my next step the car definately runs like its loading up sometimes ad cuts off so a tune is needed very soon. it acually looks also like its runing 18 lbs of boost, not 20. also instead of having the usual atmosphere purge bov it looks like it recirculates it into the intake just behind the filter in front of the turbo.....good or bad... signing off for now someone please help me so i can get this car out on the road and reppin for the few proud eagle owners out there......
 
The wideband O2 sensor is a gauge/sensor combination that gives you a "wide" range output for your Air to Fuel ratios. Widebands normally run on a scale of 0-5volts to tell you if you are super rich 10:1 AFR (air fuel ratio) or super lean 16:1 AFR. Widebands are a critical tool to tune a turbocharged car.

A recirculated Blow of Valve or diverter valve is necessary on these cars because they run a MAF. This MAF sits in front of the turbo and calculates total Air going into the motor. If the blow off valve was to vent to atmosphere then your car would run rich and stumble when shifting or coming to a stop. This is because the air that your MAF calculated is being lost and fuel is still being added.
 
You have to have a FPR. The stock one is not adjustable though, which is why it's just a FPR instead of an AFPR. like the rest of them said, a 255 walbro will overload the stock regulator.
Virtual Tour of the DSM Engine Bay - Quadrant map
http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/1G/fpr.htm

The palm pilot is your data logger. You use that to monitor what your engine is seeing. The software on the palm will be either MMCD, pocketlogger, or something similar to that. The cable connects to the OBD port.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/DSM93/Picture010.jpg
That's where the port is located, near the fuse box under the dash to the far left of the cabin. Your cable should just plug into that port and plug into the logger. If it doesn't, you'll need to do some research on how to make it do so. My car is a 1990, and some of them didn't come with the port. If you don't have a port, all is not lost, it's just a pain.

The logger records the engine sensors, and will also give you diagnostic codes. Recording engine airflow, RPM, knock, and hopefully you'll get a wideband, can tell you where to go with your fuel trims. MMCD is a free version and is commonly used. This is the official(?) page, but other people have made newer versions that do some different things.
http://mmcdlogger.sourceforge.net/
God willing, my car should stay running long enough for me to try it.

You use the AFC to change the fuel trims. What the AFC actually does is intercept the signals from the sensors, and alter them to fit your needs. Say you are getting 1000hz from the MAF, but you have 25% bigger injectors, you simply scale down the MAF signa by 25%l to 750hz (I hope I did that right...)

The AFC and palm logger have worked well for people for a long time. It's not the most sophisticated, but it does work. Other systems can alter your spark curve, which can influence power production dramatically. These however are normally more expensive (DSMlink, stand alone), or involve a lot of work (tunerpro, binary editing, DSMap). A chip can be used in combination with the AFC to make good results too.

Hope I got all that right, and gave some useful information. I've got a cold.
 
a thanks to you as well. I called the guy that i bought the car from today because i couldnt find any port to plug the datalogger into. well he kindly pointed me in the right dirrection and there it was... so i figured that was the logger which is one less thing i have to buy. now that ive been working on that thing for about three days and explored everything i could, well lets see... i noticed that the a/f gauge wasnt working so long story short one of the wires for the o2 sensor was broke in half... duh no wonder it was running like crap..... so i fixed that and voala!!! semi hard start... then purrs lke a kitten.
 
Is it for the gauge lighting? Or does it go into the meters themselves? Often you can find a part number on the gauge and go to the manufacturer's site and find what you need. If not, then I don't know what you're talking about.

You probably don't need 'link and you certainly don't need NO2. I would certainly get a wideband sensor as mentioned before. Also, don't turn the boost up until you know what you are doing. It seems tempting, but an engine rebuild is bad times.
 
alright i prety much gotthe info i need thanks to all for the info... just finished stripping and priming the whole car.... looks good hopefully pics to come soon
 
UPDATE:
alright so i got the bastard car on the road, and so far so good. ive got my datalogger to work and no knock on 20 psi. recently purchased a buschur racing in line mbc. and n the process of adjusting the turbo back down i believe i got my wastegate stuck cus the car wouldnt make any boost. checked the turbo for shaft play, and holy crap is that thing old.... so im going to go ahead and replace it since i got it apart anyways. although 16g evo3 turbos are hard to come by i believe ive found one worthy of purchase... has anyone ever had their wastegate get stuck open, and heard a loud wooooooo sound? well thats what i heard. any input would be greatly appreciated, im gonna get a new turbo anyways, but i would like to verify my diagnostics to see if im making any improvement on understand and speaking dsm..... ive put more work into this car in a month and a half than any of the cars that ive owned in my life..... thanks for keeping me on my toes dsm.... haha
pics avail under my info and posted on the photos board!!!!!
 
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