my list of mods - tell me what needs changed

[khartley]

Ok, I just got a kickass job, so as soon as I'm caught up on bills, the modding will begin on the new 94 Talon AWD
Here is what I have so far:
2g exhaust manifold
turbo timer/boost gauge
boost controller
datalogger
K&N filter
upgraded BOV pipe

Here is what I want to get, and in the order I want to get it
255 Walbro
780 injectors
big 16g
3" exhaust
short throw shifter

and eventually a new clutch, probably 26lb, then possibly a FMIC - maybe

my goal is 350 hp, or a mid-low 12 sec 1/4 mile. I want to know if my list will be sufficient for this goal, if there is anything else I will need, or if there is something that I shouldn't bother with. The short throw shifter I want just cause I like the way it feels.
Anyways, give me some opinions
thanks guys

 

[scottsee]

350hp might be tough without some badass tunning on a big 16. if your first mod will be to get a 255hp walbro, you'll be wanting to add an AFPR to your list. you need a way to controle all the extra fuel you'll be pumping. 780's will be overkill for a b16g. you'll be fine with 550's. if you plan on going bigger on the turbo 660's. anything over 660's are a pain in the ass to dial with safc2. speeking of, you'll need a way to controle the larger injectors. SAFC, MAFT, DSMLINK, exc.

yeah, dont forget the fmic unless you like your air piping hot.

 

[napkinthief]

id get the exhaust before the turbo, and id get the short shifter first cuz id hate to learn to love a car then change something like the shifter or the steering wheel and have to relearn to love it

 

[HighPsi92GST]

if your only going with a 16g, dont get 780 injectors.

and dont forget full exhaust

good luck

 

[khartley]

Hmm, good idea about the shifter, and it's relatively cheap, around $100. Maybe I should go with a bigger turbo? Like, 18g? And if I did that, then the 780s would be useful, but not until after the turbo is installed, right? Or should I still stick with 660's? And should I opt for a 190 or go ahead with the 255, cause that will be my first step. There won't be a hp gain from either fuel pump anyways, will there?

Thanks for the help so far guys, just trying to figure out the best way to do this, without overkill, and without having this car end up broke down because of my stupidity.

 

[HighPsi92GST]

a 190 is enough for a 16g as well

 

[MrBentley]

Sup man, i was thinkg about damn near the same setup. I was just wondering, do you acctually need to be getting the walbro pump and the bigger injectors because of the 16g or can you get by w/o em?

 

[TurboDSM86]

id also suggest a LSD if your honestly shooting for the 12's on a FWD w/all that power. good suspension is key as well.

 

[khartley]

id also suggest a LSD if your honestly shooting for the 12's on a FWD w/all that power. good suspension is key as well.

huh? This list of mods would be going on a 94 Talon TSi AWD.

 

[HighPsi92GST]

Sup man, i was thinkg about damn near the same setup. I was just wondering, do you acctually need to be getting the walbro pump and the bigger injectors because of the 16g or can you get by w/o em?

you will want atleast 550s to run higher boost on the 16g, the stock pump and injectors will limit your boost to stock levels.

get atleast 550s and a 190, to be extra safe and be able to fully and safely max the 16g, 660s would be better

 

[khartley]

Sup man, i was thinkg about damn near the same setup. I was just wondering, do you acctually need to be getting the walbro pump and the bigger injectors because of the 16g or can you get by w/o em?

Well, I used to have a 91 Talon AWD that I bought broken and only got it running for about 5 minutes before it started knocking again...but it had an 18g, 3" exhaust, a bigger clutch, and a ported head, that's it. He seemed to think the stock injectors were fine, but to put in a bigger fuel pump.

 

[MrBentley]

So with a big evo 16g i could run with the pump and not have to get bigger injectors?

 

[Nanan]

Yea you can run an Evo3 16g on stock injectors if you keep the boost down around factory levels or you will run lean and melt something. If your shooting for 350 whp then you should be looking for 550-650 injectors.

 

[jdm4g63]

I would try to do as much of this at the same time as possible. Unless you like playing with your afc each time.

Get the 255 walboro (it cost the same as the 190 just so you know). Then get 660 injectors just incase you ever get pissed off and want a 50 trim later. Then it goes without saying that you need an afc and an afpr. A 2g maf would be a good idea. Whoever said it earlier was right about getting the evo16g instead of the big16g. It actually cost less, because better things should always cost less right?

Just please save your money and do this all in one step. If you get the itch to tinker, swap in the 2g maf. The clutch should be done probably first. The fmic is absolutely necessary for the power level that you are after.

above all have fun

 

[tstkl]

yea, look on ebay for a good fmic, just make sure the seller has like a biginion rating or whatever its called... dont buy from less than 95% sellers, i found one with a 24x12x4 inch core from a seller named ssautochrome. I HAVE NOT BOUGHT THIS YET, BUT HOPEFULLY WILL LATER. i need to save up for my whole intake set up so taht i dont waste money on reducers and things i wont end up using...(and i need an ecu right now..) this looks like a good fmic, and he sells it for as cheap as 180, he has multiple bids going for it, and some of them are like 350+, but just look for the one for 179, 3 inch in and out, its huge, he says its pressure tested to 6 bars, which is about 90 psi i believe...it sounds like a good fmic, and getting the intake charge as cool as possible is VERY important in a turbocharged car.. cool intake=low chance of knock=happier motor=happier driver.. also i found piping for what seems like cheep, i haveing really looked around, but www.roadraceengeenering.com seems to have good prices on 3 inch intercooler piping.. and for me they are local so i dont have to pay shipping..

 

[DSM_Aruba]

- 550cc injectors
- BR20G (fastest spooling 20g on the market/ just a few hundred bucks more than the big 16G)
- Walbro 255 fuel pump
- S-AFC
- Fuel Pressure Regulator (you can get a Aeromotive fpr at slowboyracing.com)
- Fuel Pressure gauge (liquid filled gauges are better, like the CHM fuel pressure gauge from slowboyracing.com)
- ACT 2600 pressure plate street clutch kit (be prepared to change the clutch slave & master cylinder after running with the 2600 for a while)
- FMIC for your sure (try getting it same time you get the turbo)
- Air/Fuel ratio gauge (you don't want to go lean on gas!)
- 3" inch exhaust is good (try getting a 3" inch O2 housing the match the 3" downpipe)
- K&N valve cover breather (if you don't want to get oil in your intake system)

This setup will surely bring you in the 12's

 

[endlessMyk]

- Air/Fuel ratio gauge (you don't want to go lean on gas!)

If he's getting the SAFC, what's the point of the A/F gauge? Unless you just want some lights for the passenger to stare at.

 

[HighPsi92GST]

dont get a cheap ass a/f gauge thats just plain stupid.

 

[MrBentley]

Well for my setup im not going for 350 hp..... im going for around 310. The RRE folks told me that if i run at around 14 psi i could get by the smog but they never said anything about if i would need the injectors or pump.

I already have the greddy 18R core coming with the full piping and a type rs bov from the good fellas at extreme psi.

 

[khartley]

- BR20G (fastest spooling 20g on the market/ just a few hundred bucks more than the big 16G)

How is turbo lag though? And how high of boost can I run with a 20g and stock internals?

- 3" inch exhaust is good (try getting a 3" inch O2 housing the match the 3" downpipe)

Doesn't full 3" exhaust eliminate the O2 housing? It eliminates something, right?


Thanks very much for the help so far guys, I'm kind of getting an idea of how I'm going to do it.

 

[blackGSX2g]

How is turbo lag though? And how high of boost can I run with a 20g and stock internals?



Doesn't full 3" exhaust eliminate the O2 housing? It eliminates something, right?


Thanks very much for the help so far guys, I'm kind of getting an idea of how I'm going to do it.

Your boost levels with xx turbo depends on your tuning and fuel mods...I personally would not run a 20g. They are kind of 'old school' in my opinion...if your looking for comprible power, get a 50 trim.

A full 3'' exhaust will not eliminate the o2 housing unless it is an o2 eliminator...in which case, the downpipe includes the housing that bolts up to the turbo and has threads for the o2 sensor.

As far as eBay intercoolers go, I've got a bar and plate 12x24x3 intercooler from SS Autochrome and it works great. After heavy boosting on a warm day, my whole intake tract feels a whole lot cooler. At night, my intake manifold actually seems cool to the touch

 

[khartley]

I've heard so many downfalls to a FMIC though...I'm really wary about getting one, cause I think maybe the bad will outtake the good.

 

[MrBentley]

Well if your going for a big core for the fmic then your lag will increase since it takes more time to build the pressure in the extra space.

From what i have heard the Big Evo 16g turbo is a fast spooler and if you change the bearings to ballbearings it will spool even faster and i think that will kill all the added lag.

 

[DSM_Aruba]

If he's getting the SAFC, what's the point of the A/F gauge? Unless you just want some lights for the passenger to stare at.

Did you ever use a S-AFC?
Would you rather keep staring at the S-AFC somewhere in the center of the car console and not pay attention at all at the traffic. For what I know the S-AFC doesn't give any air/fuel reading on screen. With the a/f gauge at least you have an idea when the it's lean or rich (altough the best way is by using a wideband o2 to get the correct reading).

 

[endlessMyk]

Did you ever use a S-AFC?
Would you rather keep staring at the S-AFC somewhere in the center of the car console and not pay attention at all at the traffic. For what I know the S-AFC doesn't give any air/fuel reading on screen. With the a/f gauge at least you have an idea when the it's lean or rich (altough the best way is by using a wideband o2 to get the correct reading).

Yes, I've got an S-AFC in my talon. I've also got an autometer a/f gauge. Next month I'm getting rid of one because it's not needed... can you guess which?