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My kit is finally on!! haters welcome

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Slammed0 said:
Do you guys suggest match painting the bodykit before or after the installation? This may be a stupid question to alot of you but I am a minitrucker and just bought a Eclipse and don't know much about fixing up cars like you guys do.

well, i say paint the kit before install so that all the hidden lines are painted good to. that way up close you don't see the imperfections inbetween the pieces.
 
i got the kit, painted it, and put it on for 700. i am BROKE, yea so i dont even have enuff to get a fast car, i know my car IS slow, but personally liked the look of 9D9s car which inspired me to get it along w/ others
 
and yea i cant even afford to paint my handles yet or mirror but i think im gonna save that money to get a hahn racecraft stage 1 turbo next....
 
OHH take a look at my gallery and youll see why my license plate has a bite out of it. from my wreck exactly a year ago
 
Slammed0 said:
Do you guys suggest match painting the bodykit before or after the installation? This may be a stupid question to alot of you but I am a minitrucker and just bought a Eclipse and don't know much about fixing up cars like you guys do.

With these kits you have to prefit them as they never ever ever fit well. They gotta be put on, worked, then taken off and painted.
 
When you are matching paint it is always a good idea check the paint match first before painting anything. There are several ways to do this, 1st would be that just about any "serious" auto body/paint shop will have a chip book/catalogue. (We use Glasurit paint and we have two displays of paint chips, solids and metallics, there are literally thousands of chips in each display.)What you can do is look up your paint code and their system will give you a cross reference to the catalogue, you look up the chip and compare it to the paint on the car. On each side of the chip there should be variances, there format ususally goes "(paint code) more yellow" or "(paint code) lighter"...etc. Check these up to your vehicle as well, check them in direct sunlight and check them under artificial light (floresent). I did a bug shield for my dad's 02 Envoy and there were 7 different variations of the mixing sequence.

If the shop you are taking your car to dosn't have a catalogue then you will need them to make a "test panel". Have them check the code first with no variances, if this dosn't match then keep trying each individual variance until you find a perfect match. At the restoration shop I work at my boss who does all the paint mixing has so many years of experiance he can play around with the color on his own and usually get it to match perfectly. But whatever you do make sure you are confident that variance that you choose is exactly what you want, otherwise the paint will match in some sorts of light but not in others.

Variances exist because not every batch of paint that is bought by the factory will be exactly the same. An extreme example of this would be back in the days of Austin Healeys. The engines would go down the line and if they had only enough paint to do 4 engines and 10 of them were comming they would simply add whatever color they had lying around to make the paint stretch. This means that the healey engines which were normally green had no exact paint code. Red is the most difficult color to match, it is very unstable and usually is the most expensive color in the paint line.. just a little FYI
 
miteclgst, I swear if I lived closer to you, I'd want you to paint my car. Or if your ever in Colorado, my friend has a paint paint booth if you wanna stop by I can put you to work. ;)
I think your car will look better once you get a matching Bomex rear bumper.
 
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