Must Read.....Whats The Better Deal?

[KottonMouthTSI]

Man, I love this Forum, Really its great. I just got my first TSI. And im so excitied, its so awesome how all of you help each other out. I cant wait to be here for awhile, after haven my TSI and goin through all theses problems everyone seems to. Its like everyone just reads on and on.

The main thing....Now Just today, I found out so much from this forum its crazy, The car i got, Sputters in high boost. Today iv found out thats because I have a H-RFL BOV....Now my question is.
I want to keep the BOV sound loud. and pretty
I already have a nice intake, and metal pipes. So should I just swicth BOV. and get the other 34 one, i guess its called. And my car will run better.
but thats gunna cost me 180 bucks for that.

Iv been reading about the venting and non venting thing. I really dont understand it at all, i read about 5 pages about venting. I dont understand...

Would it be cheaper for me to buy the parts to fix my car now, Which parts are they?

Or should I save the hassle, and just buy the other BOV....Ill take yalls suggestions. Yall know what your talkin about....I cant wait till the day I can be in yalls spot helpin people out.

What all needs to be done for me not to vent to the atmosphere, or is it that I need to?

Im so excitied about getting this car....

Well i hope someone gets back ASAP. I really need to start ordering my parts now. Im thinkin of just getting the other BOV.
But how hard is that to switch off for my RFL bov?

 

[i1nk83]

just go out and find a 1g bov. they are cheap and effective.

 

[shallowshowcase]

ok here is a venting break down for you

your mas air flow sensor (mas) measures your air as it comes in your intake, and when you shift your BOV lets that air out that has already been measured, so it never makes it inside the engine and you run rich during your shift (more fuel than air)

when you recirculate, the air that is "blown off" goes right back in so the air that is measured stays in the intake

as far as venting, you have to get the blowthrough set up which is new UICP's and a 3" GM MAF and MAFT (Maf-Translator) this places the mas air flow sensor behind the blow off valve so it doesnt measure the air until after you blow off (So it doesnt lose any air by measureing before the BOV)

hope that helps

 

[spoolup]

stuttering at boost can be several things, old plugs, detonation, boost leaks, the list can go on.

As for the venting. it wil maek you run rich between shifts or when you come off of the gas. With my T25 I could vent and not notice swat (other than the SSQV being really loud). On the BT28 with the FMIC and 580 tuned with the SAFC it would almost die when stopping at a light (sometimes it would die).

To properly vent you need to get rid of the MAS. you can A) run a translator set up, (they even have a forum just for these things www.fullthottletech.com), b) run a VPC ect, c) run a standalone with somesort of other air metering system (speed density, hotwire MAF ect).

The only way a BOV can cause sputter (while accelerating) is for it to leak. Just do a boost test and check for leaks. That will answer that question. Also you say high boost what is high boost? And please do us a favor and fill out your profle with atleast your mods. Thank you.

 

[KottonMouthTSI]

what would be cheaper to do tho?

 

[shallowshowcase]

just recirculate, i have the HKS SSQV BOV and im recirculating, and its still loud enough to bother me, and scare other cars off the road! i vented once thinking it would be cool, well i just got annoyed with the loud sound and recirculated again.

 

[eclipseGSTud]

what would be cheaper to do tho?

Do the boost leak test to see if you have any boost leaks and if you actually need to replace your bov first. Getting the GM MAFT setup is not cheap, so I would go the 1g bov recirculated back to the intake if I were you.

 

[spoolup]

Dang shallow beat me by 2 minutes.

Also Kottonmouth, being your in morehead city there are local DSMers (I use to live in Jacksonville) I searched google and came up with a few but most were 404 broken links. check around for some that have Emails and email the individual. Chances are he or she can hook up up with local DSMers to help with problems since they are easier to fix hands on rather than thru typing. Just a suggestion.

I will see if a few of my old jarhead friends are still stationed there (I know one actaully bought a home and stayed in Topsail) and see if they can get a name of someone local.

 

[KottonMouthTSI]

but what all has to be done to recirculate?

 

[spoolup]

take a small hose from the BOV and route it to the intake (there shoud be some sort of fitting on the intake tube). What type of intake do you have? Do you see a big (about 1") pipe? sticking out the top of the intake tube? with some sort of cap on it?

Should sort of look like this (thanks Dejon) http://dsm.dejonpowerhouse.com/edit/2-01_cip-2gb.jpg

 

[miden]

The best deal, like these other guys said, is to buy a used 1G BOV. I picked up my 1G valve + adapter from a local DSM'er for $40, I believe. Look for a regional DSM club. If you're as lucky as I was, they're some good guys who are more that willing to help you out with advice and 2nd hand parts. Really a great resource...

As for your venting question/problem, just after the air intake filter, there's a black box that's about 6"x4"3" (or so...) with a fat electrical connection. This box measures how much air you have coming into your engine. After air passes through this box, it must stay in the system, or at least the computer controlling your injectors and timing expects it to be there. If there is less air in the system (venting like your car was doing or boost leak, more later...), the ECU doesn't know about it and puts more fuel into the cylinder than necessary and your car runs rich. Maybe dies, but it varies from car to car...

To ensure factory operation, all the air that passes through the MAS (the black box) has to stay in the system. From the factory our cars had a pipe that ran from the BOV to the intake before the turbo but after the MAS. That way when you shut the throttle plate and the BOV relieves the pressure, the excess air stays in the system and the ECU is happy.

To this end, anytime air escapes from the system after the MAS but before it is burned it is a bad thing. Venting can cause problems, but so can any other air leak. Someone mentioned boost leaks. Boost leaks occur when air escapes under pressure. They're harder to find. You need to build a boost leak tester (www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html) and you need to test the intake anytime you change anything after the MAS.

Sounds like you're on the right track: you're reading and learning. The best advice I can give you is to get your car running as the factory intended and go from there...

Good luck

-M