more clutch disengagement issues

[ama11]

so i bought the car that i thought needed a starter. turns out when the bendix came back it was grinding on the starter plate. pull the trans and im thinking why im in there might as well change the clutch. i used an xtd stage 4 with a stock flywheel and oem tob. well get the car back together and starts up great but wont go into gear. the clutch master cylinder looks fairly new and the slave seemed to be working properly. got under the car and noticed you push the pedal in and the rod for the master moves but about half way in it stops for about an inch then starts to go again. well i took the pedal assembly out and welded it because the guy helping me did it to his ford, plus i have searched all around and talked to people in town with dsm's. the master cylider shows no signs of leaking. anything else i should look at. also i havent looked at the rubber line but im going back out to mess with it tomorrow after work.

 

[LiquidX]

I would make sure the master cylinder is adjusted correctly.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/vYJxQyjIhUw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[ama11]

i dont exactly understand what he means

 

[LiquidX]

What you do is check to see if the slave cylinder push rod ("PR" from now on) can be pushed in. If so then what you do is go under the dash to the master cylinder (MC) and take notice on how it connects to the pedal. Notice it has a threaded rod coming out?

Back off the nut that is on the threads so you can then turn the rod by hand. What you are doing is moving the adjustment point closer to the relief hole that's in the MC so the PR can return after engaging it.

Rotate the threaded rod clockwise a couple turn and then check the PR. Can you press the PR in? If so then continue to rotate the threaded rod clockwise 1 full rotation at a time and continue to check.

Once you get to the point that you CANNOT push the PR IN then rotate the threaded rod COUNTER clockwise 1/4 turn at a time until you can fully push the PR in.

Once you get to that point, snug the nut on the threaded rod, check the PR one last time and then you have adjusted the hydraulic system.

 

[92gsxbafaro]

again check your clutch master cylinder and slave its looks have nothing to do with the way it works and is your clutch pedal functioning properly?

 

[ama11]

When you push the clutch pedal in it does not come back all the way. The adjust rod for the master cylinder is all the way out. Half way through pushing the pedal the rod stops for about an inch.

 

[joshcarp81]

did you open the hydraulics when installing the new clutch? ie opened the line by either opening the bleeder or loosening the banjo bolt the hard line attaches to on the slave cylinder? sounds like you either have air in the lines or the master cylinder p.r. is adjusted out too far blocking off the valve inside the master cylinder. easiest way to check if its the master cylinder p.r. is like he said in the video by seeing if you can push the slave cylinder rod in by hand. if so its not blocked off and just bleed the crap out of the lines first.

 

[ama11]

no i did not open any lines while changing the clutch. Yes i can still push the fork in with my hand. We also bled the system after just in case which nothing but fluid came out.

well went out tonight to put the pedal assembly back in and all seemed great. Bled the clutch for about 20 minutes and seemed ok. Then i noticed you push the clutch pedal in and it still doesnt come all the way back unless you pull it back with your foot. I am buying a new slave and master tomorrow and going from there. I am still taking opinions cause im tired of this.

also is it that maybe the adjustment rod is too far out but i could still push in the fork.