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mid 11 sec goal

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fastandlow94

15+ Year Contributor
83
0
Sep 3, 2007
Sunbury, Pennsylvania
with my set up removing the greddy emanage and profec e-01 and replacing it with dsmlink ( want ) ( not needed ) set the boost at ~24 psi are my mods realistic to get me there if nto what would you change or add thank you in advance also i have on order a walbro 255 and FIC 750's i would really like to run a mid to low 11 sec some where between 11.00 - 11.39
 
A nice clutch if you don't already have one, and definitely some bigger injectors. If you are running 24lbs on those 550's they are past maxed out. Go ahead and get some 950's, it may save you some trouble later.
 
any one else have any input on if i have a reachable and resonable goal or anything they might change
 
I'm going to assume you already have a front mount. You are gonna need at least 750cc injectors. I would go 1000cc just because you can easily compensate with DSMLink. On that turbo mid 11's are going to be tough short of getting some cams and a SMIM to make sure you flow the full 50lbs/min. I'm sure SBR will jump in here sometime but I have tuned the a couple of the GT series turbo's and can never get them to flow the numbers they say they will. Have gotten to 47-48lbs a minute with 272's and a JMFab intake but can't get anymore out of it without it being horribly inefficient. So your getting the pump and injectors, need a AFPR and possibly a stiffer clutch and you should be able to get into the mid-high 11's. If you want real low 11's your gonna have to upgrade turbo's or severely shed some weight in the car.
 
I would ditch the e-manage but i would definatly keep the e-01. I am running it and i love it as a boost controller. You can run a different stand alone and keep the boost controller. I am running a Apexi power FC for my standalone and i likewise love it. I agree with the previous poster but would also add run some real sticky tires and then it's just really a matter of your driving skill.
 
yeah i forgot about needing the AFPR and looked at a few SMIM but wasnt sure the differances and advantages of each i mean i boought the car basically in a box that a buddy had bought all the stuff for but never put it together so ive been doin my homework and my goal is to go mid to low 11's i looked at the gt35r but dont know if that would be over kill and as injector sizes go i have no idea how to pick what size i need i usually do my homework and figure all this stuff otu before i order anything though

thank you guys alot though
a few previous post people have been less then pleasnt to deal with stated abotu my limited knoledge of dsm's and the guys was liek aint that the truth kinda makes me wish i would have stuck with my mini truck were 99.9% of ppl were cool to deal with
 
I think the Gt35r is ideal and as far as injectors go i would recommend you go big as that will give you room to grow. I mean i am running 1000 cc injectors but i could have gotten my numbers on 880s as well. But should i decide i want more power down the line i don't have to worry about buying more injectors. It's the same as far as selecting a turbo. I mean you can reach your goals with a 20g but with the 35r it will be more efficient and you can reach those goals at a lower boost level and it still gives you room to grow. It also has respectable spoolup and daily driver characteristics. I am willing to help you any way that i can just pm me if you have questions. I know some people can be rude and i got that i alot when i first started posting here but i am willing to help in any way i can.
 
i agree 1000s would be very good.... the dsm life your always looking on how to get more power so itll save you trouble later on....
 
yeah i mena ive looked around and read everything i could and looked at the 1/4 mile times and the times i want to run i see alot of ppl using the 35r the turbo on my car right noe the gt11 has not even see 1/2 mile i drove it up the street and back down doubt it would even be 1/4 so i really have no idea how it drives with it on but i have been reading what i can and have found the 35r to meet what im looking to do a little better
 
Just know, the 35r isn't just a bolt on and run 11's turbo. It is better suited for race gas or a pump/meth setup, and it will definitely test the limits of your motor and trans. You will want cams and a SMIM with it, which is why I would stick with your current turbo until you've reached its full potential first.

You can run 11's on a GT11, I assume it's similar to a 50trim. With cams and link, this should not be a problem. Do it in steps. I will be much happier if I see you maxing the current setup than throwing on a giant, expensive turbo (aka 35r) and running shitty times.
 
internal wise my engine is not stock nor is my head i mean its not a $30,000 race motor

tranny and trasfer case wise i could see a few problems ive been looking around at cams and a SMIM but i still havent even drivin it with the gt11 so i guess once i drive it i might be able to do what i want to do and be happy there as far as the giant turbo shitty time yeah id rather not blow that much money im not saying my cars the best in the world but with my current set up what would you guys say i might run


also whats your guys take on having slowboy tune my car there an hour and a hald away and no one around here really has an AWD dyno or would you have some one drive it and tune accordingly

thanks again
 
My buddy Kyle Cim. did mid 11s on a small 16G, so with that said. I say a good tune, and lots a practice. Example: Because you could be give a car that ran 9s, and you 15s with it because of lack of experience.
 
FourG has a point in that it does come down to a driver but i still say build big and have room to grow. I mean it is definatly easier to hit 11s with the gt35r than with the evo3 16g. So build big then practice. If you think you'll have driveline problems then you need to build your transmission and driveline as they are the areas of weakness on our cars.
 
im not new to drag racing ive raced AUTO's but only 1 other stick car i can run cosistant i was about .10-.20 off what the mags said my vehicle should have been stock so im not horrible and i was on a broke ass drag strip and that was the first racing i had done in 2 years so i think with enough practice i should be able to get to where i want to be along with a great tune
 
I would save the money from the SMIM, and buy a larger bolt-on... I wouldnt go as far as a 35r, cause on street cars they are slow to spool, and they are not alot of fun, unless your at the track...A stock intake manifold will run 10's, with the right parts. T-body as well..

With that said, I would look into something like a 60-trim, or a FP RED. Hell even a Green would get you there... A 35r requires a little more than just BIG injectors.........

Look at my profile. Thats full weight. 22psi....I've seen the Green at 34psi... Get an externally gated turbo. Run a recicd 02 housing, a 38 Tial, and grab some comp200's, or even BC 272's...I didnt read if your head is upgraded or not.... But even 272's will run on stock springs..

With a Green you can keep you stock rev limit. Spools 20 psi by 3800..Its a kick ass street turbo, that has more than proved its worth over the last 7-8years..
 
Just curious why you would recommend a recirced o2 housing instead of dumping the Tial? According to an informative thread on the Link forums, you actually lose power with most recirculated wastegate setups, compared to dumped setups which is known to decrease boost creep and spool time.

I agree on the FP Green as an excellent street turbo and highly capable of 11 second slips, however it is my understanding that the GT11 is capable of the same power potential so I recommend taking a step up and going GT3076r + some FP2/272 cams. Turbo's like journal bearing 60trims/60-1 make awesome power, but aren't very effecient at lower boost levels. They are laggier than 50trims, and won't start making more power until you've reached the limits of a pump gas setup, meaning they will destroy the FP Green on race gas but won't be nearly as capable at 20psi on 93 octane.
 
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