Metal type for strut towers

[Araesk]

I'm looking into buying some 1/4'' sheet metal to weld onto the holes in my strut towers as many people have. I am not positive as to which type of metal I should buy, seeing as I want to not be worried about possibly weakening them anymore.

 

[ricktb]

i think i used 18 gauge

 

[Araesk]

Should I got for a galvanized steel here like this or a different kind. If i get galvanized I won't have to worry about it re-rusting.

 

[jjw205]

I just used some 16GA sheet metal, cut it to shape, welded it, ground down the welds, smoothed it with thin coat of bondo, and painted. Can't even tell the difference.

 

[Calan]

If i get galvanized I won't have to worry about it re-rusting.

The welds will, and you'll want to be careful with the fumes, depending on how much lead the zinc coating contains.

Just use plain old cold-rolled steel and paint it.

 

[Araesk]

I was thinking about how the welds would go too =/ at least I wouldn't need to buy another patch if it somehow came up again while I owned it . But >16G is good enough? I was thinking down to like 11g would be necessary.

 

[jjw205]

16GA is plenty strong enough, I think the factory used 16GA on the towers anyways. It's pretty strong, you'll find out when you bend your piece into shape to fit it!

 

[Araesk]

Lol for bending what's the preferred method? Fit it to the hole and whack it with a hammer till it roughly resembles what I need?

 

[Funfettie]

I went to a junk yard and cut towers out of a dead dsm. took em home and cut out the shape i needed. no bending required! Another neat trick I learned. Shoot the towers with a torch to remove any moisture and lather them up with grease. Never have to worry about rust again.

 

[99gst_racer]

1/4" is way to thick. And don't get galvanized either. Use an un-coated mild steel. Something in the thickness range of .060"-.090".

Lol for bending what's the preferred method? Fit it to the hole and whack it with a hammer till it roughly resembles what I need?

Yup, tack in one side and hammed to shape. As you get your shape, keep tacking, and then hammering. Once it's completely shaped and tacked in place, then do your final welding. Hop around on the welding. Do an inch or two on one side and then an inch or two on the opposite. That will minimize and equalize stressing and general "pulling" and deformation by not focusing too much heat on one area for an extended period.

 

[Araesk]

And wiring welding is the method I should go with since arch is too hot Abe would melt it, correct?

 

[99gst_racer]

Yup, MIG is what I'd recommend.

 

[Araesk]

And then is it one cut out solely for the top? Or would you want to do both the top and bottom? I'd imagine getting the bottom would be tough, and putting a weld on a weld wouldn't be too good.

 

[99gst_racer]

Cut from the top and weld from the top. And make sure you cut out all of the cancer even if you end up with a massive hole to cover.

Here's some pics from mine that mysef and John Whalen repaired on a rusty 2G that I used to DD. I didn't think to get "during repair" pics unfortunately.

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[Ghost_92TSi]

I am so glad I live in the south. That picture looks kind of like a tumor grew by the tower. But The welds are flush and it is doing what it needed to do. I would definately try to find a donor 420a car and chop a section. I like everything to be clean so it is down to preference.

 

[Araesk]

Definitely a rather sizable gap there. Hope fully mine isn't that bad yet so it'll be easier for me seeing as it has been a bit since I've welded last so I will have to practice a bit prior. But alright I'll pick up a sheet of 16ga metal soon and hopefully everything goes well. Thanks for responding an helping!