The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Metal paste on my magnetic drain plug

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AWDtalontsi96

10+ Year Contributor
144
0
Mar 29, 2010
Enfield, Connecticut
Okay so I just clicked 1,000 miles on my new motor , did a oil change and there was some gray paste kind of material on my magnetic drain plug. Not a lot just kinda coated it. Id say less then 1/16th of in thick. Did the 30 minute break in idle , rev , hold rpm , accel and decal. Then changed oil. Ran it 1,000 then changed oil , first 500 miles were 15 psi driving more accel and decal on the motor , little to no highway so rpms would be all over and not just sitting at one rpm. Also crankcase breather / catch would smoke a little , trickled as much smoke as a lite cigarette just sitting there. then once motor warmed up smoke would go away. Fresh oil change, new filter and cleaned preturbo oil filter. Started it up and no smoke what so ever and warmed up still no smoke. Why was it smoking before. Was the oil burnt from the 1000k breaking in the motor?
 
Well regarding your thread title, I'd assume it's perfectly normal for a little metal to be there on break in, your wearing in the rings. Thats why you change it multiple times

Your breather could have been steam and not smoke.

I kinda figured the metal was normal , but almost 4 years and close to 25K invested I am crazy paranoid over every little thing.

Yeah could of been steam. Just odd , its not steaming now and was before.
 
You didn't spend 25k on just a motor right? Lol. Ive been there though. Want everything to come through perfect as to not waste your investment. I'm building another motor shortly (spare) so I'll be in same boat.

LOL no way , maybe around 2500 parts and labor in short block and head another 3000 parts and labor in the head
 
The smoke was just normal blow-by on a brand new engine. Until the rings fully seat you will have some blow-by.
 
Oh you paid a shop for this?
A 5500 dollar motor huh? How come you didn pick up a magnus stage 2 short block and stage 3 ported head?

This machine shop I go to in my town as been building motors from big block fords to 1000 whp Hondas and DSM. Small family owned and been doing this for over 60 years. Plus I can its right there so I can go in and check progress. There local so if there is a problem no need to ship or deal with customer service. I can talk face to face with someone. Also they know me so all I had to give them was the parts and a small deposit and they got to work.
 
Out of curiosity whats in the block what internals? And whats in the head?

Mod list up to date?

mod list is 100% up to date

That price sounds double what i would anticipate, or at least $2,000 too musch, even paying $1,000 to swap it.

Damn well better be a strong motor at that price!

Sounds totally normal on the metal paste though.

Yeah I kinda went all out. Check my mod list for everything done to motor. Not just a normal 6 bolt swap
 
Well i hope she lasts many a miles. Let us know how she holds up to 550+ hp :)

I'll keep everything up to date in profile with dyno video , and dyno sheet. Hoping for right around 550 on pump gas. we will see. Dyno tune probably at the end of this month. Got some weird driveline vibrations just did all 4 axles , now going to rebuild the entire driveshaft. All new mounts , carrier bearings and u joints. Then off to the dyno

Congratulations on the new build then in that case! Sounds like you got what you wanted, with a shop that YOU feel comfortable with.

Thanks and Yeah I trust this machine shop with anything when it comes to motors.

First couple times I ran my engine after rebuilding it there was some steam coming from the breather. After a couple hours or so, it stopped, so it sounds normal to me.

Yeah it seems to be less and less and now when the oil change its gone , but just got done talking to my buddy tonight.

So I talked to my buddy Raif who owns RRT , Raif Racing transmissions. He has a 9 second evo and 9 sec 1g. He was telling me I should of changed my oil at least at 200 miles and then 800 miles. That would of kept the oil cleaner and less metal build up on the magnet. Also recommended I run brad penn 20-50 and a k&n oil filter. I just put running mobile 1 and a fram filter.
 
I'm wondering about this...

...Id say less then 1/16th of in thick. Did the 30 minute break in idle , rev , hold rpm , accel and decal. Then...

Not starting an argument about break-in methods here but you ran the engine for 30mins just idling? Why?
 
I'm wondering about this...



Not starting an argument about break-in methods here but you ran the engine for 30mins just idling? Why?

Where did I say I let it just idle for 30 minutes? I said idle , rev , hold rpm , accel and decal. Meaning I did all of that for about 30 min's

Fram filters are garbage. I only use K&N ones.

20-50 seems pretty thick though..

From what I heard 20w50 is needed for a supporting big power and high rpms and going to switch to KN

I'd maybe think twice about running Mobil 1. Check out the link in post 10.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/469119-my-turbo-hates-me-im-about-done.html

Yeah I just did the oil change today. Going to run it for about 500 miles and hen going to change to Brad Penn and a KN oil filter
 
Last edited:
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top