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Mechanical oil pressure gauge installation [Merged 1-8]

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DSM_23

20+ Year Contributor
281
0
Nov 17, 2002
Springfield, Missouri
ok i have a mechanical oil pressure guage for my 91 tsi awd and i know the general area to tap into just not the exact place, all i know is, is that its near the oil filter, other than that i cant figure out what to tap into, so if somebody could help me out here it'd be nice, thanks
 
Ahh, but you are comparing a short sweep electric gauge to a full sweep mechanical gauge.
Yeah your right. I didn't think about that and jegs doesn't specify so I checked the Autometer website and they don't make a full sweep in that model.
 
Autometers 52mm (2 1/16)#5727 Phantom Electric Oil Press (short sweep) is $52.88
and the 52mm (2 1/16)#5723 Phantom Mech Oil Press Gauge is $50.99
both at summit.
 
Grimis said:
Autometers 52mm (2 1/16)#5727 Phantom Electric Oil Press (short sweep) is $52.88
and the 52mm (2 1/16)#5723 Phantom Mech Oil Press Gauge is $50.99
both at summit.
Again, you are comparing a short sweep to a full sweep; which is neither fair nor an accurate comparison.

But for anyone that is looking for an inexpensive alternative to a mechanical gauge, the short sweep electric gauges are the answer. As long as you dont mind not having the full sweep.... The short sweep electric stuff is definitely a good deal. :thumb:
 
dave99gst said:
but why chance it ? its not like elec gauges cost that much more. and its a WAY easyer install.

What does cost got to do with it? I didn't pick the mechanical gauges because they are cheaper. I picked the mechanical oil pressure gauge because electrical ones are pure crap.

Sure the electrical one won't leak in your cabin but you cant compare the accuracy of electrical to mechanical.

My friends been running his for years without leaks. I've been running this one for a while now too without cabin leak either. If I ever get a leak, I'll clean up the oil and fix it. No big deal.

As long as you use -an fittings and line or at least the copper line kit autometer sells, the chances of leakage are very slim. Most of the people who have them leak didn't install them well to start with.\

Btw I use the stock location for the oil pressure gauge. Paul sold me the adaptor and it screwed right in. I don't care about the stock oil pressure gauge anyway so it worked out good.
 
i took out my stock pressure sender and just screwed the fitting in its place.its mechanical and doesnt leak.you have to be retarded to make it leak.just tighten it down and itll be fine.i dont trust my stock gauge either,tick marks just dont cut it.i use an autometer phantom.
 
timloomis said:
i took out my stock pressure sender and just screwed the fitting in its place.its mechanical and doesnt leak.you have to be retarded to make it leak.just tighten it down and itll be fine.i dont trust my stock gauge either,tick marks just dont cut it.i use an autometer phantom.

Thats exactly the same setup I'm running. I'm using the Autometer hard copper line too. I also agree with the whole retard comment. I'm having no problems what so ever.
 
I thought the rule of thumb on this one was, use mechanical gauges for pressure since it changes very fast, and use use electric gauges for temp since it changes slowly.
We all know electric gauges do not react as fast as the pressure they are reading, but just make sure to use brass or SS lines with AN fitting when you use Mechanical pressure gauges, unless its a boost gauge of course.
 
Well here are a few photos I took yesterday of the install I did about 3 weeks ago. I know they're not of the highest quality (I used my sister's camera that she got from Wal-mart :toobad: ) and now I am regretting it. These shots are for all the noobs that aren't sure what goes where with this install. I used this install guide for a reference. It now makes more sense now that I did the install, but before it was a little unclear.

I will try and post up clearer photos within the next couple of weeks. Below is what DSMJim said in a PM.

DSMJim said:
DSMunknown said:
DSMJim said:
DSMunknown said:
Any other better/eaiser install guides other than this one ?

I have looked on here and on vfaq but have yet to find anything good.

thanks

You have a mechanical or electric gauge with sender

If it's mechanical then get a braided line and run it inside the car and T off the oil filter housing.

If it's mechanical T off the oil filter housing and mount the sender right there. THen run the wires inside.


Thanks for replying. Appreciate it.

Actually, mi padre helped with the install. I haven't experienced or noticed any leaks as of yet. I will try and post of a couple of pix to show anyone who may need a visual aid.

Why would u think I need a SS braided line for? I already have the vinyl hose going to and from the T and the gauge. Could I possibly fit the vinyl hose inside a ss braided line? Or will it not fit?

thanks
Anthony


The vynal hose works ok, just that some guys have had them leak eventually which stains the interior. You would have to re-do the fittings with brass JIC fittins and -3 line kind of like a turbo feed line kinda thing which will never leak or burst thats all.


Well, I am in need of some assistance myself. How am I supposed to get off the vinyl hose attached to the female compressor T with loc-tite on there?! Actually, I didn't use loc-tite, but something pretty similar so I guess I can just call it that.

Here are the pictures...





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just loosen it up. It will be pretty tight, but not stuck. I would also change that nylon line with a braided one.
 
Looking at installing an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and need to know the thread size/pitch of some of the ports on a '91 oil filter bracket (with external air oil cooler ports).

Stock oil pressure unit location is 1/8" -28 BSP, this I know . . .

Is the Stock oil pressure switch location also 1/8" -28 BSP?

How about the 'unused port' in RRE's picture? Is it 1/4" NPT?


On a side note . . . has anyone tried getting their pressure from the head? I would assume that to probably have the lowest oil pressure in the entire system . . .

Thanks :thumb:
 

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http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b122/scottsee/Megan Downpipe/Install/100_1171.jpg

Thats how i remote mounted mine. just for refrence.

Autometer remote mounting supply:
1/8" NPT inch brass t-fitting
male to male 1/8"brass fitting
3' to 3'6'' steal braided hose w/male fitting (for t-fitting) & female fittings(for sending unit)

Wireing:
back light: cigarett lighter wires. Green&white stripe(power) Black (ground). using these lights will give you the ability to dim your gauge with the rest of your dash lights.

Gauge (ignition/ground): behind the steering colum is where i tapped my ignition wire. take 4 10mm bolts off the lower steering colums covering to expose the wireing. there are lots of wires. wrapped in a black tubing are 4-5 wires (one is a Large white wire) ignition sorce will be the Black&white stripe wire. i think you can figure out how to find a ground. but i used one of the stearing bracket bolts.

Hope that helps a little.
 
There is an adapter that Summit sells that will fit it in the stock location. It adapts the threads to the same pitch as the factory housing. That is how mine is mounted in my car and it works perfect, doesn't leak at all either.
 
I used one of the free plugs that is between the oil pressure gauge sender & the oil pressure light (not shown in your drawing) it faces down towards the ground. When I did mine is was a major pain in the ass. I tried npt fittings and they wouldn't screw in far enough that I trusted, then I tried bsp fittings which screwed in nice but since the thread is parallel I didn't trust them as they could come lose from vibration. What I ended up doin was getting a 1/8" npt male to female adapter. I took out the plug, drilled it then tapped it for 1/8" npt. I screwed the adapter into the plug then got it welded. I leak tested it to 5000 psi (can't be too safe ROFL ) and it works perfect. Then just screw your 1/8" npt male sender unit into it :thumb:
 
I know this doesn't answer your question, but I believe its the same as the further back plug that I used. I tried everywhere/everything I could think of and couldn't get anything that I felt confident in that wouldn't come lose or leak. I forget the thread size now but it seems to be a bsp.
 
Well I have a 3/8" to 1/8" BSP-BSP Male-Female adapter coming in . . . so if it works I will post the results.
 
Ok just an update to close the thread out . . . I found an adapter for what I needed . . . McMasterCarr sells em and it's actually called a "bushing":

3/8" BSPT Male x 1/8" BSPP Fem, Hex Bushing (Part # 4860K692)

Attached are some fuzzy pix of the install :thumb:

I'm kind of curious as to how accurate my $20 mechanical pressure gauge is, so I'll probably leave it in a few more days, then yank it out (yeah . . . that's nylon tubing in the background LOL )
 

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Defiant said:
What's wrong with your engine? What have you done with all the protective grit and sludge?

ROFL LOL Guess I would actually have to have a fluid leak of some sorts before the grit would start to stick 'eh? :D
 
Oh my god, all this oil stuff is so confusing. I don't even know what all that shit is that you have plugged into your filter housing. During my engine swap I put on a '90 filter housing so I can convert to air oil cooling, and I have no idea how to hook up ANYTHING.

I wish somebody could just tell me exactly what to do, figuring this out is a pain :mad:
 
Red -- Aftermarket Oil Pressure gauge with 3/8" BSPT Male x 1/8" BSPP Fem Adapter (bushing)
Blue -- Stock Oil Pressure Switch (Idiot Light Unit)
Green -- RRE Turbo Oil Feed line with 3/8" NPT to -4AN 90deg adapter
Yellow -- Oil Thermostat Cap
Orange -- Stock Oil Pressure Sending Unit (3/8" BSPT thread)
Grey -- Oil cooler return line
Black -- Oil cooler feed line

capiche ?
 

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