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Mechanical oil pressure gauge installation [Merged 1-8]

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DSM_23

20+ Year Contributor
281
0
Nov 17, 2002
Springfield, Missouri
ok i have a mechanical oil pressure guage for my 91 tsi awd and i know the general area to tap into just not the exact place, all i know is, is that its near the oil filter, other than that i cant figure out what to tap into, so if somebody could help me out here it'd be nice, thanks
 
mkspriggs said:
does anyone know what size of a fitting the good preasure tap is?i got one of the autometer kits but it doesnt look like it will fit there looks just a hair to small,or is there another place to tap this.thanks guys.

3/8
 
Thanks to Defiant , with that piture above, i know i have a 2g, my oil gauge will be here tuseday as long as fedex gets here :| any ways, i have photoed the picture above to ask my question, or is it diffrent on a 2g? :confused: I dont want to screw any thing up, just got her running again :thumb:
 
yup, it is, underneath the car, mine will be here tomorow, dsmparts.com mess up. shipped me a dipstick for a ford windsor instead of my oil pressure gauge, i got my boost/vac gauge and my gauge pod :thumb: so im going to be in the same boat when i get mine too.
 
another dumb question, Im getting Electronic Oil Pressure gauge :p i have my Mech one up for sale!! any ways, my father asked my how the electronic one hooks up and i told him and he brought it to my attention, well if thats what it does, then y not splice into the wire that is running from the sending unit to the gauge? Im like, well dont know, but would that work? instead of replacing the old one with the new one for the gauge, or am I being such a noob OMG
 
from my understanding, you should be able to splice that line.. but I dont know for sure.

as for mechanical oil gauges.. you guys were right.. they suck :mad: [ yea yea, "i told you so" :p ] ended up spending about an hour to hook it up and get it going. and the bi*** leaked all over. i ended up using shop towels to clean the mess up :| so.... electronic oil gauge here i come.

if anyone cares the install was simple.

i tapped a tee into the SS oil feed line i had [ oil filter housing ] using a 3/8" plumbers brass tee. 1 side was the female end for the banjo fitting for the SS line. the other side of the tee I fitted a male adaptor in there [ so you can screw it into the housing ] the long leg of the tee was adapted [using 2 diff. adaptors :rolleyes: ] to the 1/8" plumbers female.

all the work and the gauge works fine. it just leaks like a biotch. :thumbdown for mechanical oil gauges. oh btw, i got the autometer pro comp series AND the autometer brass line kit
 
Yeah, Im hoping the Electronic gauge is easer then that, Another "I TOLD YA SO" from me, :( Sorry if i got on any ones case. My mechanical gauge is on ebay. Im going to order my electronic gauge this weekend. Will let you know how it goes in, and if splicing that wire works. :dsm:
 
To put a mechanical togethor right ( the mech gauge and the Braided line kit for it ) will be about 100 so just save a lil more and get the electronic oil pressure gauge.. I have gone through 1 copper line and 4 plastic lines , they have all thankfully popped outside of the car not inside heh.
 
Does anyone have detailed installation instructions with pics for an Autometer electronic oil pressure gauge in a 2g?
 
Defiant said:

Bring back an old thread. Ok I have a question about this picture. That spot where it says good pressure tap, this spot could be used for oil pressure right? Well technicly my housing is a tad diffrent as I have a 90 style oil cooler housing but there is one of those allen caps located in the same general spot next to the oil switch. I think this is the unfiltered location. I'm using the filtered one for my turbo so this is the only other one free.

I have an Autometer gauge that comes with a 1/4 1/8 and 3/8 adaptor and the 3/8's would fit into one of those perfectly.

Yes its a mechanical gauge and I dont need to hear why I shouldnt run a mechanical gauge into the cockpit, I just need to know if those locations would work.

Thanks guys.
 
Can you be a bit more clear on which part I'm going to be sorry about?

The location or the usage of the mechanical gauge? Everyone I know runs mechanical gauges and they have NEVER had one leak. I've never had one leak. If you are stupid enough to install one using that crap ass nylon hose then I could see one having issues.

Copper tube or stainless braided lines the only way to make sure its not going to leak and so far in the past few years of everyone I know running them, not one person has had even a drip.
 
kristmen said:
Can you be a bit more clear on which part I'm going to be sorry about?

The location or the usage of the mechanical gauge? Everyone I know runs mechanical gauges and they have NEVER had one leak. I've never had one leak. If you are stupid enough to install one using that crap ass nylon hose then I could see one having issues.

Copper tube or stainless braided lines the only way to make sure its not going to leak and so far in the past few years of everyone I know running them, not one person has had even a drip.

but why chance it ? its not like elec gauges cost that much more. and its a WAY easyer install.
 
dave99gst said:
but why chance it ? its not like elec gauges cost that much more. and its a WAY easyer install.


and are they just/more accurate than the mechanical gauges? i just bought a mechanical one a few hours ago, and now am in the process of emailing hung to see if he has any solutions.

i decided on an autometer ultralite mechanical gauge and now am seriously thinking about returning it. HOWEVER, this gauge reads from 0-150 psi, while the electric gauge only reads 0-100. i went over and checked autometer's new webpage (which is better than the old one imo) and they do not offer an electrical gauge that reads 0-150 psi.

i think i may have been on the "2G go faster" help pages, or maybe some other dsm tuner forum, but i recall a specific statement that claimed that one should get AT LEAST a gauge that read from 0-100 psi, ### of how cold it can get in the winter. well, i dont wanna be stuck with a 0-100psi gauge when the gauge may trying to be reading 120psi. any solutions? i would like to stick with the ultralite series if i can. i also messaged the sales department at autometer about this issue.
 
I have never understood why people ALWAYS say that a mechanical WILL fail. I have had MANY mechanical oil pressure gauges in my vechiles and so have my friends. Some are daily drivers some are build just for racing or going wheeling. NOT ONE HAS EVER FAILED. I have never seen a gauge that was installed correctly and the installer used common sense ever fail. Now I dont want anyone to give me this crap about, "just wait, over time they will fail." I have had the one in my truck for at least 5 years with the same line that Autometer gave in the package and it still works perfect everyday. This is in the AZ summer heat, Flagstaff winter snow, and a trip to So Cal. Not one problem ever. Feel free to do what you want, but just knwo that, if installed properly, they are no more or a problem or danger than anything else.
 
dave99gst said:
but why chance it ? its not like elec gauges cost that much more. and its a WAY easyer install.
I am a warehouse distributor for Autometer. Last I checked, there was roughly a $120 price difference between the mechanical and full sweep electrical oil pressure gauges. The same applies for fuel pressure gauges.

boostedinaz said:
I have never understood why people ALWAYS say that a mechanical WILL fail. I have had MANY mechanical oil pressure gauges in my vechiles and so have my friends.
I agree. Half the guys I work with have been racing for 15+ years. They all use mechanical gauges installed with the stainless braided line w/ AN fittings. And they've never had a problem after all these years. Ask them to use electric gauges; they'll laugh their asses off. For the price difference, I'll stick with mechanical. :thumb:
 
Last edited:
Last I checked, there was roughly a $120 price difference between the mechanical and electrical oil pressure gauges.
The Autometer Sport Comp series electrical oil pressure gauge is $13 more than it's mechanical version - courtesy of Jegs.com. The higher end gauges might be a different story though.
 
kristmen said:
I have a 90 style oil cooler housing but there is one of those allen caps located in the same general spot next to the oil switch. I think this is the unfiltered location. I'm using the filtered one for my turbo so this is the only other one free.

unless you only want clean oil going to your gauge, it really doesn't matter. it will work.
 
SGTalon said:
The Autometer Sport Comp series electrical oil pressure gauge is $13 more than it's mechanical version - courtesy of Jegs.com. The higher end gauges might be a different story though.
Ahh, but you are comparing a short sweep electric gauge to a full sweep mechanical gauge. Let's try comparing full sweep to full sweep. For example:

Phantom series fuel pressure
Mechanical = part# 5712. I sell it for $37
Electric = part# 5763. I sell it for $168

Ultra-Lite series oil pressure
Mechanical = part# 4323. I sell it for $38
Electric = part# 4353. I sell it for $176
 
well, i decided not to p##s out and stuck with the mechanical gauge. hopefully it'll be coming threw the mail by fri/sat.

now i already have a boost gauge and followed the install process with these directions (along with a few others for security reference). how do i go about lighting up my gauge? do i just tap into my boost wires? can i do the same with my egt?

the reason im asking is because the original harness wires that i tapped into are now going to be powering 3 additional sources that it isnt intended for. should i be worried about that?
 
99gst_racer said:
Ahh, but you are comparing a short sweep electric gauge to a full sweep mechanical gauge. Let's try comparing full sweep to full sweep. For example:

Phantom series fuel pressure
Mechanical = part# 5712. I sell it for $37
Electric = part# 5763. I sell it for $168

Ultra-Lite series oil pressure
Mechanical = part# 4323. I sell it for $38
Electric = part# 4353. I sell it for $176

Wow! I wonder why there is such a huge price difference on them. Oh and btw you beat summit on your pricing there :thumb:
 
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