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Max rev limit with new motor

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danyz250f

15+ Year Contributor
631
6
Mar 13, 2005
Rexburg, Idaho
I am finally putting my new motor in this weekend. I have a stage 3 chip with the revlimit set to 8k but I was wondering if it is safe or even worth going past that. I have Brian crower cams springs retainers bc/shafts gone and the stock crank with scat rods wisco pistons. Race balanced.
 
Ok sweet that was another question I had.

But Here is another one.

I am also putting in a new df centerforce clutch in too. They require at least 450 to 500 miles never unleching full power.

Another one, what should boost be set at? 0, 10 psi? Disconecting the Wg and running no boost and just rodding the motor n/a kinda. Or should it have boost.:confused:
 
You should be ok without launching, take it easy in between shifts, run it at minimum boost and keep it under 7k for the first 1500 miles.
 
oldman said:
That is the method I'm using for break in, 320 miles so far with perfect compression across the board with very little blow by.


Im going to have my new engine in in about a couple weeks...
Ive read this article before in the past and was contemplating that break in method...
Did you do exactly as described in the article, and you say your compression is perfect?
What boost is your engine set at during the first 200- miles?

Not that this completely concerns me, I know breaking in a clutch is much different
and no doubtedly requires easy driving to let it seat properly,
that would make a problem if you want to break in your motor using the articles
methods while breaking in a clutch gently... But I am going to be running the same clutch Ive
always been running ( cfdf clutch ) so Im not worried about the clutch but I do have a new
fidanza flywheel going in and curious if I have to break in aluminum flywheels a certain way?

Just trying to fortify my decision here.
 
Bruce and I broke our motors in the same way. I recommended that he run 14-16 psi for the first 30 miles just to seat the rings and I did the same. After I changed the oil, I ran 22 psi which is about all the Big 16G could hold on the stroker.

I saw similar results with respect to compression coming up to spec very quiclkly. Within 200 miles, my motor was done seating everything, but I waited until 1500 miles to switch to full synthetic. Compression all the way across is still steady at 170 with Comp 200's. and my piston tops are still pretty clean after 2K miles.

With respect to your flywheel question, don't worry about it. Don't launch for the first 200 miles to play it safe, but you can still romp on it during the break in period for the motor.
 
andymoraitis said:
Bruce and I broke our motors in the same way. I recommended that he run 14-16 psi for the first 30 miles just to seat the rings and I did the same. After I changed the oil, I ran 22 psi which is about all the Big 16G could hold on the stroker.

I saw similar results with respect to compression coming up to spec very quiclkly. Within 200 miles, my motor was done seating everything, but I waited until 1500 miles to switch to full synthetic. Compression all the way across is still steady at 170 with Comp 200's. and my piston tops are still pretty clean after 2K miles.

With respect to your flywheel question, don't worry about it. Don't launch for the first 200 miles to play it safe, but you can still romp on it during the break in period for the motor.



Good just what I wanted to hear.... Thanks a lot, you always pop up at the right time LOL:thumb:
 
Andy is the man, I was going to take the easy break in route until he convinced me otherwise and I'm glad he did. Thanks Andy. :thumb:
 
oldman said:
Andy is the man, I was going to take the easy break in route until he convinced me otherwise and I'm glad he did. Thanks Andy. :thumb:
And he only did this b/c I told him to!!

I've said it before and I'll say it again Andy, you learn from the best....


Oh BTW, same story here, hard engine breakin, and very little blowby and excellent compression w/ Comp 200's.
 
Yet but shouldn't you be boost leak testing tight now? ROFL

BTW Andy said he taught you everything you know. :confused:
 
oldman said:
Yet but shouldn't you be boost leak testing tight now? ROFL
Not when theres no engine in the car I can't. Shouldn't you be trimming your heat shield to stop it from rattling?.....:D



oldman said:
BTW Andy said he taught you everything you know. :confused:

About tuning, yes. But he's been sucking my thumb for anything any everything mechanical related for months. :)
 
project_tsi said:
Not when theres no engine in the car I can't. Shouldn't you be trimming your heat shield to stop it from rattling?.....:D
Damn poly mounts. :cry:

About tuning, yes. But he's been sucking my thumb for anything any everything mechanical related for months. :)
That's not what he said, he told me you look up to him like a grandfather. ROFL
 
OK the one feeling I had left is genuinely hurt now. Truth be told, Dan has taught me a bunch mechanically and I can't deny it, but he still can't tune for shit.

Just for reference, I've never broken in a new motor the easy way.

Now if you'll excuse me I need to go nurse what's left of my wounded pride and salvage some of my dignity.
 
Hard break in. About 1500 miles. Checking compression this weekend out of curiosity, or do I have to pull a piston to "see" real results? I will admit I used synthetic oil. :notgood: I was 17-18 and definately should have done more searching before breaking in. I guess I got some half-bad advice since I got the hard break in part right. Will report results after test. It seems to run allright when set up right.

I thought that article was great. (btw) I wish I would have seen it 3 years ago when I dropped mine in. :|

Whos advice am I really listening to? LOL
 
Don't go pulling pistons now to check blowby and ring seal. Just run a comp check for now, its all you need to do. If one or more is extensively lower, then we need to start looking into other things.
 
I am going to be running NONTURBO for the breakin period, so that crap circulating through the oil doesn't trash my rebuilt 20G (it is now a Stage 3 Texas Rebuild Frankenstein 20G). I have a dummy turbo that has had the turbine shaft/wheel and compressor wheels removed, and the holes welded up, so all it will do is pass coolant and oil through it. I'm going a bit fulltilt with this rebuild, I am removing the AC system, and as soon as I can find a 1.8L manual steering rack real cheap, I will be removing the power steering. The Starquest frontmount IC will stay on for the Shootout (IF I can make it), then I plan on building a really huge custom IC that will use the extra room from removing the AC condenser. This IC will be completely handbuilt, using a Griffin core, and endtanks I will make myself, by beating aluminum sheet over wooden forms for the endtanks. I'll do a VFAQ on it, of course, and may end up selling copies of the IC (IC with endtanks and outlets only, no pipes) to help offset the cost of building the thing.

Got that thread from here-
http://vfaq.com/mods/kill.html

Now a question about that... Has anyone ever had that problem, the breakin shavings that are going thru the oil getting into the turbine and messing it up? ? ?
 
nightspeed87 said:
Got that thread from here-
http://vfaq.com/mods/kill.html

Now a question about that... Has anyone ever had that problem, the breakin shavings that are going thru the oil getting into the turbine and messing it up? ? ?
I was warned/instructed by a few people to throw on a beater turbo for breakin, but all I had was a shot 14b and didn't want to fork out any more money on turbo's I didn't need. Besides that, my turbo was still covered under warranty so I didn't change it. To this day, it has no more shaft play now then what it did when I bought it.
 
nightspeed87 said:
Got that thread from here-
http://vfaq.com/mods/kill.html

Now a question about that... Has anyone ever had that problem, the breakin shavings that are going thru the oil getting into the turbine and messing it up? ? ?
Large chuncks should be stoped by the oil pick up screen and tiny ones should end up in the oil filter, this doesn't mean you can't play safe if you have one handy.

I have an inline oil filter on the turbo feed line, I have checked it three times so far with nothing in it.
 
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