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Master and Slave... no help!!! 2g!

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my dreamt dsm

15+ Year Contributor
3,306
34
Jan 29, 2007
Somewhere In, California
I have just replaced my slave and master with oem mitsu parts. My clutch is still dragging and the pedal won't come up all the way. I adjusted as jack's video said but when I adjust it to the point where the clutch pedal does come up, it drags really bad! I loosen it to get less drag and then the pedal wont come up. I am totally clueless!
Could the clutch fork or ball thingy be the culprit?

Read mainly everything unless I've missed something...RRE's Tech tip, searched forums, google, youtube. No answers! Now I'm starting to feel the stress of owning a dsm. And I've just barely nip over 4k miles of owning it!:ohdamn: Man what I would give just for the car to feel stock again:pray:
 
Are you sure you do not have a leaking line?

I can't seem to find a leak any where:mad:. Under my car is clean as heck. No buildup or anything. But when I do bleed it. It seems like soap water being poored from a cup!
Is it possible to have a leak some where tight enough that thick brake fluid can't leak out but enough for air to be sucked in?
 
I guess. Break fluid is thicker than air. but if it is coming out with bubles you wither have a leak or you still have air in the line. might need to bleed it some more.
 
I can't seem to find a leak/ crack anywhere which I think there is. Everytime I bleed the clutch I see air bubbles! Is there anything out there that came be like rub over/ coat the clutch lines to prevent leaks?
 
Have you bench bled the master cylinder first? The master cylinder should be bled first by itself until no more bubbles can be seen. Then the clutch line gets connected and line/slave get bled as well.

Good luck.
 
Have you bench bled the master cylinder first? The master cylinder should be bled first by itself until no more bubbles can be seen. Then the clutch line gets connected and line/slave get bled as well.

Good luck.

I couldn't find a step by step bench bleed method. Honestly, I've never heard of bench bleed. Maybe this will FINALLY solve my problem! Thanks for the replys. This has really gotten me upset because I couldn't get much help on here! I'm sure a couple of dsm guys have had this problem. Thanks again!:thumb:
 
Have you bench bled the master cylinder first? The master cylinder should be bled first by itself until no more bubbles can be seen. Then the clutch line gets connected and line/slave get bled as well.

Good luck.

You don't bench bleed the master by itself, ever.
 
From Jacks trans video all seems well. Looks like I'm going to have to replace something in the clutch system because everytime I step on gas to get up to speed, my clutch is grabbing even with the adjustment at the rod.
So could a bad loose clutch cause this. I have no idea I am so frustrated and don't even know what I'm saying!
 
Will, Jack from Jacks transmission is helping me out with this since I'm sort sighted from tuners. Here is the transcript from me and Jack!


----- Original Message -----

From: Korrey Yang

To: [email protected]

Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 6:18 PM

Subject: 98 eclipse transmission



Hi,
I've been having problems with my clutch pedal coming back up.
How it started:
When I drive at high speeds coming to a stop the clutch pedal will sink when I'm coming to a complete stop( when the car is still in motion, coming to a stop... not when I've already stopped)
One day I decided to launch the car @ 4k rpms. Ever since then the clutch pedal won't come fully up. My car is stock and I don't race!

My solutions:
Bleed it like crazy! I've replaced the slave cylinder with a new one. My old one was still in good condition with no problems when I removed it. The problem was still there. Dish out more money for a master cylinder. Problem still there. Went on dsmtuners.com and asked, still the same problem. I've tried the jacks dsm clutch adjustment. Problem still there!

Do you have any ideas on what I can do to fix the problem. I'm starting to think it's my clutch disk. This is my daily driver and I'm not rich. I don't want to dish out $6-700 for a fix at the shop until I've explored my possiblities. If you have any recommendations before my last resort at a shop. Please share and help! Thanks!
------------------------------------------------
Hello, it sounds like the throw out bearing might be getting jammed on the trans bell housing sleeve when returning to its home position. Unfortunately, there is no easy fix for that as the trans would have to be pulled and the TOB and sleeve replaced. That would be my best guess at this point. Sounds like you did everything else right as long as you used factory Mits parts and not cheap autoparts store parts.



Jack







Jack is a busy person so I'll ask you guys for a faster response. I've never taken down a dsm tranny. What sleeve is Jack talking about!
 
It's called a quill. It's the casting that protrudes from the bellhousing and "shrouds" the input shaft. Looks like a tube over the input shaft. The throw out bearing rides on it. It's aluminum and will gall over time if not greased properly or if you get alot of sediment on it like clutch residue, flywheel residue or carnage residue that isn't cleaned off.
 
It's called a quill. It's the casting that protrudes from the bellhousing and "shrouds" the input shaft. Looks like a tube over the input shaft. The throw out bearing rides on it. It's aluminum and will gall over time if not greased properly or if you get alot of sediment on it like clutch residue, flywheel residue or carnage residue that isn't cleaned off.

So Morphius. You think this could be the problem?
 
So Morphius. You think this could be the problem?

If you're sure you've bled your system sufficiently and inspected the pedal and found nothing wrong with it, then that would be my next item to inspect.

Have you replaced the clutch or TB any time recently?
 
If you're sure you've bled your system sufficiently and inspected the pedal and found nothing wrong with it, then that would be my next item to inspect.

Have you replaced the clutch or TB any time recently?

Nope. Not recently. The last documentation of the clutch change was @65k miles at mitsu dealer, which the car now has 111k.
If it is the case I guess I'll just save a little more and buy a performance clutch so I can do it all at once. Maybe next week we will find out what it is when I break into there.
 
We'll after months of frustration, anger, suicide...j/k... I finally fix this damn clutch issue. Got my income tax and bought a STM ss line master to slave and act street disc. After two hours to take the tranny off( first time on a dsm since I come from honda's) We inspected all moving parts.
Took one look at the clutch disc and it was gone. I mean gone. The surface was so bad that if I was to drive and few more hundred miles it would of ate my flywheel.
Well I also over ride the clutch damper also. And everything is just fine now. Im not sure it the dragging issue is gone yet. I'll have to inspect the clutch itself in time. But for now everything is fine! Thanks everyone in participating in this survey!!!
 
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