Many fun filled problems (idle and misfires)

[Fotowntalon]

I didnt get much help in the 420a section so re-posting here, keep in mind that this is a 420a not a 4g63 when replaying, and thanks in advance for the help.

So I am at a loss, my problems first started when I got my crower stage 2 cams installed. It was stalling everytime i switched into neutral, and I had a vaccuum reading of around 10. The problem went away after about a week and the car ran great. I thought it was the ECU learning the cams, so instead of beeing happy with my car running great, I went out and bought the AFX/ECU. The problem began happening again after installation of the AFX/ECU, so obviously I assumed new ECU is having to relearn everything.

The problem slowly went away and only occured after i would back-up or if it was raining heavily. After much searching i saw a post on 2gnt, where a guy had a simular problem and simply opened up his TB a little and the problem went compeltly away. Naturally I tried the fix and things got even better.

Brings us to almost now (sorry for long post, want to be thorough). With the car running better I got a CEL thrown in, P0141 (downstream heated 02 sensor circuit low voltage [bank 2]), i checked under my car and my wire as incinerated, but didnt really worry because it was the 02 sensor behind the cat, which i didnt think would cause any problems. Shortly after my car gave me the code P0172 (System Adaptive fuel to rich bank 2). From there my idle problems got worse, and my vacuum still was running around 10. I had remembered bulletsdown saying that with the TB open it can make the system run rich becuase it is adapting for the extra air flow. I undid the TB beeing opened and the stalling got 4 times worse. I re-opened it slightly at idle got better and with a low vacuum i assumed it was a vaccum leak.

I took out my IM and TB, put gasket sealer around the gaskets to make sure no air was flowing out of there, to be 100% sure it wasnt a vacuum leak I even removed my EGR (had some small hunches it was going bad anyways) and gasketed up those areas. While my TB was off I even cleaned the IAC, even though looked clean i figured it couldnt hurt. Put everything together all to find out things were the same (although cleaner with no EGR)

My vacuum is still running with a fluctuation between 9-10 I sometimes still stall in neutral and when reversing. I have most my vacuum ports plugged. So naturally I think my timing is off from cam installs. I went out and bought a UDP (figured it would give me more of a reason to check my timing) Installed the UDP, checked the timing and DEAD ON!. I start to drive feeling a little releaved from my timing beeing good, when all of a sudden more CEL'S!!!

Misfires in cylinders 2 &4, multiple misfires! I don't get how installing a UDP can cause this, the udp is from unorthadox racing, not a cheap ebay one. So now I got multiple misfires, stalling in neutral and a headache from trying to fix this. Please help! I don't see how an 02 sensor, one that is behind a Test Pipe (yes i have a test pipe) could cause all this, but maybe i am just thick.

The MSD coil is good, plugs are good, plug wires are good, everything gapped fine. Fuel filter changed 10k miles ago. Clicking is coming from all injectors, car really hasnt shown any hesitation or problems when driving, Idle does fidget a tad bit, around 1k-1.1k or 600-700 depends on what the car feels like doing. If you want all my mods they are listed in my profile, any help is greatly appriciated.

 

[Fotowntalon]

**UPDATE**

So I decided to replace the fuel filter, figured it couldnt hurt and it was cheap, and after all new cams would need efficient fuel flow, as you can assume this didnt help.

Later on that night I stalled twice at Mcdonalds, and my cars lights were fidgeting with a really eratic idle. After it died, i'd start it up and it would be fine for a couple minutes then back to the horrible idle (Mcdonalds was runnign very slow this night). Then it got worse, my car started overheating...

Frusterated, the next day I went out, and got my new 02 sensor for behind my cat. Put it on, and decided to check my coolant sense I was overheating the night before, a little low, so i filled it up. When I started putting my hood down, somehow miraculasly outa the corner of my eye, i noticed my positive terminal to my battery was loose. and i mean LOOSE! I'm guessing my cam idle has slowly unloosened it or something, so i tightened it up and started driving, and WOW, felt like my car had new life, peppy energetic and more responsive, all from an overlooked basic.

Now not all is fixed, I cleared 4 of my 7 codes.
What is fixed- 02 sensor, running rich, mutliple misfires, cylinder 2 misfire.
Codes left- EGR circuit malfuntion (not going to get rid of this one, after all i removed the EGR), and Misfire cylinder 4 (P0304) and another code read P0304 p/d (not sure what the p/d means) Also the car still has a tiny idle surge of about 100rpms, but it is catching itself much better when going into neutral.

So in conclusion almost done, but still need help on how to fix my cylinder 4 misfire, as stated before its not the plugs/coil/wire and click is coming from injectors, any help is appriciated, i need my baby top notch for the 16th!

 

[1990TalonFast]

Unplug your ticking injector with the car on and see if that changes your idle, if it doesn't than replace the bad injector

 

[Jetrosr]

Just for your info, the post cat O2 is for measuring the efficiency of the cat, which you don't have. So get used to an O2 code to go with your EGR code.

 

[Fotowntalon]

Just for your info, the post cat O2 is for measuring the efficiency of the cat, which you don't have. So get used to an O2 code to go with your EGR code.

The funny thing is, I have never gotten that code, and I dont understand it. Changing the 02 sensor did fix my running rich problem, but still, I don't see why my 02 isnt freaking out about the test pipe, it is really odd, but i'm not complaining.

As for the injector, I will try and get to it sometime tomarrow and post the results, thanks again for the help.

 

[Fotowntalon]

So went out tonight and wow, its terribly hot out.. anyways...

Turned on my car, let it idle for about 5 mins, temp was a little over 1/4, turned it off, and did my compression test, and i think either i did soemthing wrong or i didnt have it warmed up enough, regardless, my numbers were rather close, although low

#1 - 136 #2 - 110 #3 - 136 #4 - 120

Now here is a weird thing, when you normally try and start it without a spark, it makes the reving sound like its trying to start, and thunk thunk right? Well it wasnt making that "thunk" sound after the first one in cylinder 4, if that makes any sense, i even took it out, whent back to 3, tryed it, got the thunk thunk thunk thunk and back to 4 again and still only one thunk then no more... wierd.

I also had everything together and tryed to pull the injector wire outa 4 to see if it changed the idle and, not sure if you need a tool or special way to do it, but couldnt get the thing off. I got it loose enough to where if u pushed it back down it clicked in, but couldnt get the thing off (thats what she said) Regardless the idle didnt change. Is that a good enough of a test of can seomeone give me some advice to get the injector off?

 

[Fotowntalon]

so tryed to get the injector out today, and it slid out with no problems whatsoever, anyways, the idle stayed exactly the same, like it was normal.

 

[Brutal_r3drum]

so tryed to get the injector out today, and it slid out with no problems whatsoever, anyways, the idle stayed exactly the same, like it was normal.

this would hint to a bad injector

 

[1990TalonFast]

Follow my lead and replace it