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Low Idle and CEL

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mharrison

15+ Year Contributor
45
0
Feb 7, 2006
Madison, Mississippi
I've been getting P0302 code and low idle on my 97 Eclipse 2.0 NT. It's chugging at idle with about 800 RPM's. I've changed the plugs and wires with no change in behavior.

I've searched and seen multiple low idle issues, but didn't run across any that listed this CEL. Any thoughts on this one?

I'm thinking coil or injectors since it has stayed specific to cylinder 2.
Can I test my coil with a multi-tester? (If so, how?)
 
I've been getting P0302 code and low idle on my 97 Eclipse 2.0 NT. It's chugging at idle with about 800 RPM's. I've changed the plugs and wires with no change in behavior.

I've searched and seen multiple low idle issues, but didn't run across any that listed this CEL. Any thoughts on this one?

I'm thinking coil or injectors since it has stayed specific to cylinder 2.
Can I test my coil with a multi-tester? (If so, how?)

P0302=MISFIRE IN CYLINDER 2.

Start with the basics. 1. Make sure your spark plug wire is clicked all the way on.
2. Check spark plug gap.
3. test wires
4. test coil.
 
The story so far....

My car began idling rough and a bit low (around 500-700) and the check engine light came on. I received the P0302 CEL (Check Engine Light) code. As I knew this was a misfire on cylinder 2, I began my trouble shooting efforts with that in mind.

  1. Re-seated both ends of the plug wires. I did this on all 4.
  2. Pulled the plugs and they all looked healthy and the gap was correct.
  3. Swapped the plug wires on cylinder 2 and 3 to see if the problem followed the plug wire. It did not. It stayed with cylinder 2 according to the CEL code.
  4. Then I swapped the plugs from cylinder 2 and 3 to see if the problem followed the plug. It did not. It stayed with cylinder 2 according to the CEL code.
  5. Then I purchased some new plug wires and installed them anyway. (I didn't have faith that the existing wires were good) It actually seemed to run a *bit* better (wishful thinking maybe?), but this was obviously not the problem.

:confused:

So, any thoughts? I'm still thinking injector, coil, or possibly a vacuum leak?
 
Check the coil pack, If you have access to a multi meter use it....on the side of the coil pack where the harness clip plugs into , check for continuity between the power supply (the middle one) and then coils 1&4, (closest to the front of engine) and again between power (middle lead) and 2&3(closest to firewall)...
If your coil pack is good, then that isn't the problem, if it is bad, you might want to replace it....another way to check this....is to just swap one from a friend if you know anyone with a 420a 97 and up (late 96 models too), this includes neons as well.
 
Thanks BigRand. I'll definitely be checking the coil pack tonight!
 
FYI: The resistance between 1 and 4, and then between 2 and 3, should be around 11.3-13.5 kilo ohms.
 
OK, I get the one range hotter plug (BKR5E-11), but why NGK specifically?
 
It doesn't really matter that much... I usually just get Bosch plugs from Discount because I don't feel like driving around looking for NGKs. I think the main point to remember is that you don't need "super-deluxe 10-point iridium/titanium plugs" -- just the basic, quality plug will do.
 
VelocitàPaola;151238950 said:
It doesn't really matter that much... I usually just get Bosch plugs from Discount because I don't feel like driving around looking for NGKs. I think the main point to remember is that you don't need "super-deluxe 10-point iridium/titanium plugs" -- just the basic, quality plug will do.

LOL, lazy butt. www.sparkplugs.com my friend. Thats were I ordered my BKR7E-11 and I ordered a whole box with 10 plugs so I got back-ups. Never had to leave the house.

The main reason people reccomend the NGK's specifically is because it's a standard copper plug, and has been proven more reliable on our cars than a platinum core plug for years. The important thing is your gap, depending on your set-up set your electrode to the proper gap. The NGK's are dirt cheap so get them.
 
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