noV8undrDIShood
10+ Year Contributor
- 244
- 0
- Jan 6, 2010
-
Lewistown,
Pennsylvania
Hey guys, im a little late on starting this and I should have been taking alot more pictures that i did, but better late than never right.
I have a 93 laser and have completly tore it down and started from the ground up. I am looking for low 10's.
Project setup: 6 bolt 2.3L with eagle forged crank, manley I beam rods, and weisco HD 9:1 pistons, BSE, Mitsu MLS, ARP head studs/main stus/rod bolts, kelford 272, kiggly beehives, +1 ferrea valve, 3 angle/ port and polished, Magnus drag SMIM, Q45 TB, 90 OFH, ERL cast aluminum exhaust manifold, Tial MV-R 40mm gate, S259 .70, ETS FMIC, Tial Q bov, Dual walboro in tank, fuel cell, full -8 line, fuel lab afpr, -10 fuel rail, FIC 2150 high impedance injectors, Avid motor mounts, poly front and rear subframe bushings, swadge rear upper and lower control arms, K-sport coilovers, full 10pt cage (have in the garage but not in car yet, ACT street light pressure plate, ACT 2900 with solid 6 puck (going twin dsk once this setup is maxed out), Trans needs sorted out (not sure who i am going with the rebuild yet. Car i going to be set up and tuned with Link-v3. Fuel will most likely be E-85 or c-16 depending on availabilty (also looked into VP Import). alternator relocation, p/s delete, a/c delete, de-powered rack.
There is probably stuff that i am forgetting, but this is going to be a drag car that i would like to keep street legal. So as far a wiring and everything goes, i got rid of absolutly everything that is not needed to be street legal. I am looking to get 550-600 AWHP out of this setup
* the pic with all the tap in the engine bay was not to paint, it was just to block off the holes so i could spray the engine bay down and clean it up, engine bay will be painted with partial wire tuck when finished with batt relocated to trunk
I have a 93 laser and have completly tore it down and started from the ground up. I am looking for low 10's.
Project setup: 6 bolt 2.3L with eagle forged crank, manley I beam rods, and weisco HD 9:1 pistons, BSE, Mitsu MLS, ARP head studs/main stus/rod bolts, kelford 272, kiggly beehives, +1 ferrea valve, 3 angle/ port and polished, Magnus drag SMIM, Q45 TB, 90 OFH, ERL cast aluminum exhaust manifold, Tial MV-R 40mm gate, S259 .70, ETS FMIC, Tial Q bov, Dual walboro in tank, fuel cell, full -8 line, fuel lab afpr, -10 fuel rail, FIC 2150 high impedance injectors, Avid motor mounts, poly front and rear subframe bushings, swadge rear upper and lower control arms, K-sport coilovers, full 10pt cage (have in the garage but not in car yet, ACT street light pressure plate, ACT 2900 with solid 6 puck (going twin dsk once this setup is maxed out), Trans needs sorted out (not sure who i am going with the rebuild yet. Car i going to be set up and tuned with Link-v3. Fuel will most likely be E-85 or c-16 depending on availabilty (also looked into VP Import). alternator relocation, p/s delete, a/c delete, de-powered rack.
There is probably stuff that i am forgetting, but this is going to be a drag car that i would like to keep street legal. So as far a wiring and everything goes, i got rid of absolutly everything that is not needed to be street legal. I am looking to get 550-600 AWHP out of this setup
* the pic with all the tap in the engine bay was not to paint, it was just to block off the holes so i could spray the engine bay down and clean it up, engine bay will be painted with partial wire tuck when finished with batt relocated to trunk
. Why not just run pump and race gas for the track as well as meth? Waay cheaper, easier, and more reliable for cruising through towns or vacationing etc.