10 second street machine

[Ikeelyou]

Whats going on all. Since i joined this forum because i recieved a FREE DSM I figure I'd make a journal of the project. the car was a basket case and was missing the trans and as I've tried to get it road worthy I have run accross all sorts of interesting stuff. And so it begins.

*edit, the red x comment cracked me up.

This link is to a video of one of the cars I have done work on. http://hightechautorepair.webs.com/apps/videos/

 

[Fracture]

Picture is broken.

 

[jtmcinder]

And maybe say a few words about the 11-, 12-, or even 13-second cars you have previous built, since we have no clue who you are.

 

[Redwood]

i know you have more pictures then this to post aboot your car man.. let all of us see the beast...

 

[turboglenn]

damn, a 10 second red X is the hot'ness

 

[Ikeelyou]

Ok, so a little intro to myself. jtmcinder has asked about cars I have previously built. As far a building a car from scratch that I have owned none. Done work on others cars for other people, yes. As an automotive technican by trade I've done numerous mundane repairs but I have been involved in assembling/modifying several customer cars, including 67 mustang fastback, 2000 excursion 7.3L powerstroke, 67 dodge dart, 4.3L v-6 inboard motor. Anyway, the point is, its time for me to have a car of my own. I figured a DSM is as good as any place to start. On a side note, I work for Eaton Corporation right now doing engine testing on prototype valvetrain parts.

Cars body is "ok" except for the driver rear quarter panel that has some damage. The transmission is out of the car and has a broken bell housing. A/C and PS components are both gone. tire are trashed, misc parts fill the passenger seat. I figured that a good place to start was by pulling the motor out and checking it over. And I'm glad I did. The first thing that I noticed was the fuel rail, there was 5/8 in hex head sticking out where a smaller metric bolt should be, and it didnt even thread into the head, I was able to pull the bolt out by hand, and not to mention that the oversized hole through the rail actually had cracked it. The remedy was that I machined (at work) an insert to go into the hole that had an interference fit and then i used the green bushing locktite to help hold it in place. I purchased an AEM fuel rail to replace the broken stock oneand bolted it up in the other two hole so that i could mark the location for the thread in the new insert. This picture is after the repair is complete

 

[Redwood]

more work less talk.. and lots more pictures...

cant wait to see this baby on the road.

 

[Ikeelyou]

so the second thing I noticed wrong was the engine block ear was busted off. . So I machined a piece of steel from work "somewhat" in the shape I needed and the proceeded to very carefully tack weld it in place using a nickel rod (would have done the whole thing but the steel was'nt bonding with the nickel real well) and I then fininshed it off by brazing the rest of the way. (if you want more detail on how I welded on cast iron PM me). The other great thing I discovered was that the previous owners repair was to weld a nut to the engine mount that was right in front of it. It was a nasty looking weld too. Anyway, once I welded the piece on I bolted up the transmission so that I could mark the location for the hole and then I drilled and tapped it.

and the nut

 

[Redwood]

you no its been a minute since i have seen you work on your car man. maybe we should pull that into the barn and get her trans in... oh we need to get our cars back up and running soon.

 

[Ikeelyou]

So finally have some money to work on this bad boy again. I've got the trans back in bought a radiator and cooling fans from DNA motoring, I've got my fmic piping, and I'm ready to go back at it.