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Lots Of Smoke After Rebuild, Yes I Searched

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jott5555

20+ Year Contributor
1,263
6
Apr 10, 2003
salem, Oregon
ok as i said i did search for this but didnt find a answer. i just did a full rebuild on my 6 bolt. it has 118 miles one oil change and im doin a compression check tonight.

the problem is this the car runs good pulls to 7 psi very well buy it smokes blue smoke like a son of a B**ch.. when it fully warms up it only does it intermitedly (sp). i pulled the mani and turbo for a diffrent reason yesterday and all the valves on the exh side had a carbon film on them but no standing oil anywhere.

any ideas? or anything ive left out let me know. i may retourque the arp head studs to make sure they are still all tourqued.

thanks for the help
 
as i stated BLUE

i just finished the compression test via vfaq and i got

1# 182

2# 180

3# 182

4# 180

looks good. i cant figure it out.. damn smoke.

i guess tommrow i pull the valve cover and check the valve seals.. any word on how to check them?
 
check your pcv connection and the valve itself.


jott5555 said:
ok as i said i did search for this but didnt find a answer. i just did a full rebuild on my 6 bolt. it has 118 miles one oil change and im doin a compression check tonight.

the problem is this the car runs good pulls to 7 psi very well buy it smokes blue smoke like a son of a B**ch.. when it fully warms up it only does it intermitedly (sp). i pulled the mani and turbo for a diffrent reason yesterday and all the valves on the exh side had a carbon film on them but no standing oil anywhere.

any ideas? or anything ive left out let me know. i may retourque the arp head studs to make sure they are still all tourqued.

thanks for the help
 
Right after a re-build it'll smoke for a while because the rings and seals aren't exactly "riniging and sealing" yet. They still need to seat and all that fun technical stuff...

you shouldn't really be putting any heavy pressure on the car for the first 500-800 miles. Keep the RPM's around 4k-5k. Baby it. Take it slow.... think of it like a virginal prom date.
 
why would u rebuild an engine and then get on it 180 miles into the 500-750 miles break in period?
you are destroying ur piston rings...obviously uve been in it wide open throttle so i would def. say ur dmagaing shit, why dont u just drive around normal for a while, like ur supposed too...do u wanna ruin ur rebuild?

when i had mine rebuilt i aboslutely didnt rev the engine over 4,000 rpms and never even came close to boosting it.

thats just plain common sense.
 
i hope the above post wasnt referring to me..

i have done nothing but baby the car.. at mabery 1/4 throttle. the most i hit was mabey 7lbs. ive broken in engines before not one of them smoked as much as this one is. thats why i had reason for concern. im going to take the car out into the boonies and drive it for a couple hours so i can hopefully get a couple hundred miles on it.
 
blue92laser said:
why would u rebuild an engine and then get on it 180 miles into the 500-750 miles break in period?
you are destroying ur piston rings...obviously uve been in it wide open throttle so i would def. say ur dmagaing shit, why dont u just drive around normal for a while, like ur supposed too...do u wanna ruin ur rebuild?


thats just plain common sense.

You will not destroy your piston rings when you do a Hard break in. You will not destroy Anything on a hard breakin unless it is due to machine/builder error, and it will break anyway no matter what kind of breakin you give it if that's the case. A Hard break in will help the rings seal better before all of your crosshatch wears off. Crosshatch is what helps your rings seal, and higher cylinder pressure helps them seal even more!!

please stop spreading wrong information.

jolt: are you varying rpm's and using engine deceleration to slow your car down?
go out to the boonies and do a 3rd gear pull from about 30mph to almost redline at about half throttle and then let the engine slow you back down to the speed you started from. Do this about 5 or 6 times and drive the car some more.

Have you made sure that it's not your turbo that is blowing oil?
 
jott5555 said:
i guess tommrow i pull the valve cover and check the valve seals.. any word on how to check them?
Well, what IS your idea of a "rebuild"? It used to mean -for a major- crank bearings, rod bearings (both ends), pistons, rings, valves (valves, seats, guides SEALS), Welch plugs, oil pump, timing parts, sensors, seals, gaskets- pretty much the whole boat. Regardless what motor or car.

So, did you install some nice new rings and put the old, hardened, non-sealing valve guide seals back on that 180#-compressing motor? If so, you'd pull (and push) oil through them to beat the band.

I guess I answered my own question.
 
The same thing happened to me after I had my VG30DETT rebuilt at the local machine shop. It turned out the rings were installed upside down.

I know two auto machinists who are big into building and racing imports and domestics. They both say the "hard break in" is the way to go.
 
ill do a couple nice pulls and defient i used cower springs and retiners. brand new i drive it a bit today and it did ok. smoke badly for the first 10 min then ran decent with very little smokeing.

ill do some hard 3rd gear pulls and i installed the rings dot side up. i also used ross raceing rings that came with the ross pistions.

i hope itll be away after a couple 100 miles. if not ill report back.
 
when you first start the car, hold the rpm's around 3k for about 10 minutes.
vary the rpm between 1000 and 3000 for the next 10 minutes, switching rpm's every few minutes.
drive to a spot where you can safely do 30-80mph sprints. your engine will be partially broken in before you get to the spot.
put the car in 3rd gear, and gradually increase the throttle until you go from about 30mph up to almost redline.
let off the throttle and let the engine slow you down.
repeat this 5-6 times or until your engine stops smoking as much.
drive back home and change your oil.
change your oil 50 miles later.
and that's it.
 
pinknuggit said:
when you first start the car, hold the rpm's around 3k for about 10 minutes.
Okay, this is very iffy territory, because there's as many break-in theories as there are mechanics (and who breaks-in the brand-new cars? Your mammy?)--

But that high-speed idle, in my sphere of experience, is for breaking in new cams.

Otherwise, I don't see much wrong with your plan.

One of the important parts stressed to me was to keep the heat moving around in the engine- no sustained running at any specific RPM, no undue lugging, and give it a rest before bringing it to a stop: don't drive it home at 70 and shut it off. That was before I was involved with turbo engines. With a turbo, I'd go easy on the boost to start with and not bring in on suddenly. High boost should be okay, but only with a gradual onset and a gradual reducing afterward.

But all those cars out there, it must not really matter all that much.
 
Yeah.. that's the exact reason why is so that your cams will bed in.
I've never put a head on a rebuilt bottom end that wasn't rebult itself. It's a good idea to do that if you have aftermarket cams/rebuilt head with stock cams. Otherwise you don't need to do that. I was just assuming he had a full out "rebuild". :p
 
ive did a full rebuild. i will do cams eventully... well a update im at 160 miles and in the morning first start up it smokes like a bisnatch for 5 min. then just on occasion little puffs

i noticed it only puffs smoke when i hit boost other than that its pretty clean.
 
The first time I took my car out after I rebuilt it I ran it hard. Went out and did some good pulls in 3rd and 4th then came back and let it run for awhile. The only time it smoked was when I started it up for the first time, there was so much smoke I couldnt hardly breathe. LOL Never smoked once after that though.
 
From my experience of rebuilding engines, (only sb chevys), but the idea is all the same, most of the smoke occurs from there being remains of oil on the dome of the pistons after installation. Ususally i just wipe them off, put the head on, all the other stuff, and fire it up. All of the oil should burn off while you are seating ur cam, or in your case, the first couple of miles driving it. As far as breakin techniques, there are so many; some say slow and gradual, some say hard, as far as im concerned, all of them work if u have common sence. The most important thing to remember after a rebuild is after u first start it up, dont just sit there and rev it up like its ur job, let the engine seat itself from 10-20mins, then either drive it or turn it off, the first 20minutes are the most critical. Its also important not to keep turning it off and starting it back up, that is the easiest way to spin a bearing. The piston rings should seat with in about a minute of firing it up, period, theres so much friction during that time, which causes most of the debris in the bottom of ur pan after u change the oil after the initial breakin.
 
jott5555 said:
driving around like this is soo freakin embarressing.. people lookin rolling up their windows. pointing and laughing. on dude calle me smokey and the bandit

Thats's pretty sad, but it sounded funny though. :p

Give it a good break-in period and you'll forget all these embarassments.
 
ya i think in another 100 miles or so itll be all gone. its soo hard to stay off the boost tho today some dude in a monte carlo ss wanted some and i had to decline. but eventully.. thanks for all the help

Tuners really works..
 
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