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tbonitz301

15+ Year Contributor
669
2
Jan 5, 2008
lonaconing, Maryland
Ok so after going over just about everything im still experiencing a heavy bog under acceleration. It feels electrical. I mean it goes from feeling like 100hp to 300hp at the flip of a switch. It hardly ever runs good, but sometimes something happens and it will run good for a few seconds then go back to running like crap. 95% of the time it runs bad. I just fixed a bunch of boost leaks, and i was thinking that i may have some fouled plugs. I have some bpr7es's that will be going in tommorrow. I'm just looking for some suggestions. I have gone over all the ground wires, and electrical,fixed all boost leaks, and im just lost for ideas. I can post a log if it would help. I dont really have any good logs right now, but i'll put one up.
One other thing is when i go wot my wideband sits at 10.0. I just installed it today so im new with it. The car was acting like this before the wideband install;)

Well i just looked over my log again, and it looks like the wideband is buried at 10 all the time. I also wanted to add that my ecu has leaky caps. I dont know what that would do though. Thanks for any help.
 
Well i forgot to put the log up. Here it is
 

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I did some research on leaky caps, and that is not whats leaking in my ecu. (A)Is the things that are leaking. Its like jelly, and they were all stuck to each other. (B) is where i clipped the speed limiter resistor. I just wanted to confirm that i clipped the right one
 

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Well that would explain why i keep frying isc'sLOLOK one problem down. Any ideas on my other problems
 
if your running 10.0 on the windeband thats a tad rich usualy when mine goes that rich it stops and would hit fuel cut untill i added a chip to get rid of fuel cut what are you using to tune?
 
at woot you want mid to low 11s or HIGH 10S like 10.9 10.8 not 12s thats alittle to lean better to be a tad rich then lean
 
I'm new to tuning. Could you all help me understand how to get my a/f back in check. I'm using dsmlink. Thanks guysBTW that ecu pic is from when i had my tmo chip. I have link now
 
How much boot were you running in the log? One thing that you should do is try to get your coolent temps down. At 206* the ecu will pull a degree of timing. So, that will make the car slightly slower.
 
I was right around 16 psi. Thanks for the tip about coolant temp. I actually noticed that earlier, and used the dsmlink feature to keep the fans on all the time.I got the ngk 7's because i plan on turning the boost up as soon as i get everything in order
 
You are going to have to add 18% in the airflow sliders according to that log. I am not sure where at though because you didn't log mafraw.


Edit: I see you fixed your knock sensor.
 
Ah shucks. Well if your on here in the morning. I'll post up another. Tommorrow is going to be dedicated to my car:DI might finally get somethin done.
 
Edit: I see you fixed your knock sensor.

I'm not sure he fixed it. In DSMlink it's set to read above 7969 RPM's.

Also your front o2 sensor seems to be acting weird. When cruising/slightly accelerating it's at 1.10v yet when wot (which is an assumption since you didn't log ThrotPos) you're at .12 or so.

And you might also want to check your wideband o2 since it seems to be pegged on 10.0 throughout the whole run. I'm not sure if you're using the wrong AEM captured value or what as I'm not familiar with that wideband.

Also, you've done all your idle, rev, and cruise tuning, correct?
 
I havent fixed the knock sensor. I'm pretty sure that it is something in my ecu not reading the knock sensor input. I'm not worried about it. I know that i can blow my motor, and all that, but i not trying to get crazy here. I just want a decent tune. I'll be back with a log
 
Does your wideband sit at 10.0 and not move at all, or does it move up and down just stay in that range? I'm sure you had to free calibrate the sensor, if you didn't do that it won't read right. Another thing if your wideband is reading correctly, you calibrated it and all and it's jumping back and forth (it should read about 14.6 at idle and low 11's high 10's at WOT)? If that's not the case I would try and re-calibrate the wideband one more time. If your sensor is reading right and it's still a little rich under boost you could take the BOTTOM honeycomb out of your MAS, I'm assuming your still using the stock MAS because you don't have a GM MAF setup on your profile list. Don't remove all the honeycombs from your car as it will run like complete crap. The previous owner removed the honeycombs out of my 2g GST and at idle I was idling around 19.5ish and under WOT I was going as low as 8.9. After putting all the honeycombs in after I got them from a friend I went down to 13.5 idle and 10ish at WOT, I took out the bottom honeycomb and I now sit at 14.6 idle and 10.8-11.2 WOT. I don't know how the honeycombs affected WOT the way they did, but my wideband doesn't lie to me, at least I hope it doesn't :p! Did you ever get a new ECU? If you're frying ISC's your going to run like crap also. Hopefully something here will help you out! Good luck bro

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EDIT: I see that you have DSMLink, head on over to the DSMLink forums and they can show you very simply how to adjust your a/f's to get them in check. Remember approx 14.6ish at idle and around 11.0 under WOT, if you can monitor knock then I would suggest it, but it sounds like something isn't letting you log knock? I might even say go about 10.8 or so under WOT just incase.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/91676-how-street-tune-using-dsmlink.html
 
OK well here is two logs. The first is a cruise log.Its real hard to just cruise around here with all the mountains. The second is a wot 3rd gear pull.15psiMy wideband does move around, but as soon as i touch the gas it goes to 10.0.
By calibrating the wideband do you mean turning the little dial on the back of the gauge
 

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What input is your wideband hooked up to? Did you make sure the wideband is set to p0 for the calibration?
 
The wideband says PO when i start the car. It sits at 11.6 at idle. I'm sorry for all the questions,but i didnt see how to calibrate the wideband. The instructions just had steps for calibration w/ems. My wideband is sending info to the rear 02 ecu input
 
As stated above, are you sure the wideband is wired correctly into the ECU (I'm assuming you used Rear O2 (ECU Pin 75) for your input)? And where did you install the sensor into your exhaust?

And when logging/streaming at idle, does your Front O2 sensor cycle from .05 to .95 or so? If not, it needs replaced and would account for why your car is running like crap.
 
Yes it is wired in correctly, and it is 39in from the turbo at about a 15* angle. Im going to check out the o2 sensor now, and i will report back. Thanks brian
 
OK well here is two logs. The first is a cruise log.Its real hard to just cruise around here with all the mountains. The second is a wot 3rd gear pull.15psiMy wideband does move around, but as soon as i touch the gas it goes to 10.0.
By calibrating the wideband do you mean turning the little dial on the back of the gauge

Your wideband is calibrated. The P0 is the calibration. P0 means it will display air/fuel ratio and is set for 0-5 volts. That is all the calibration that is done with the aem eugo widebands.
 
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