1G Looking for some info 20g?

[2gGst98]

Looking to see what kind of 20g this is, if it is, and what kind of numbers if possible.

It was a little laggy as I remember, full boost by 5k little after. Motor is out and at matching shop. Looking for 400-450whp maybe 500 but that’s very tops. It made 290whp low boost and low timing before we found out block was cracked.

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[dustyboner]

it looks like a Mamba turbo. they always have those black adjustable WG actuators

https://shop.mambatek.com/

 

[JusMX141]

Someone bought a Kamak/Kinugawa compressor upgrade package and was apparently afraid to bend the arm a little to line up with the factory flapper lever so they got creative. Typically when someone who doesn't know what they're doing gets creative, performance suffers...so that's likely why a 20G that should be seeing full boost at 4k or below isn't getting there until 5k. I blame that hokey actuator setup not holding the flapper fully-closed.

A cast 20G on pump gas in full send mode is good for about 350-380whp; around 400-430 on race fuel or E85 with an aggressive tune. Lose that FP manifold if you want the initial spool and transient response to be better as well. A turbo the size of a 20G doesn't need that much manifold flow unless it's going for records on an engine that revs well beyond the stock rev limit.

 

[2gGst98]

Someone bought a Kamak/Kinugawa compressor upgrade package and was apparently afraid to bend the arm a little to line up with the factory flapper lever so they got creative. Typically when someone who doesn't know what they're doing gets creative, performance suffers...so that's likely why a 20G that should be seeing full boost at 4k or below isn't getting there until 5k. I blame that hokey actuator setup not holding the flapper fully-closed.

A cast 20G on pump gas in full send mode is good for about 350-380whp; around 400-430 on race fuel or E85 with an aggressive tune. Lose that FP manifold if you want the initial spool and transient response to be better as well. A turbo the size of a 20G doesn't need that much manifold flow unless it's going for records on an engine that revs well beyond the stock rev limit.

Ok 350 I can deal with for now I suppose but not for long. I’ll spend that money elsewhere for now. Go green later

What would you recommend I do with the hokey actuator?

And you would recommend a stock manifold, or different?

Thank you.

 

[JusMX141]

Bend the arm up a little at the last bend and lose whatever the hell adapter they have rigged on there. You want the hole in the actuator arm to offset the pin on the flapper lever about half the distance of the pin when it's adjusted correctly, or about 1/8"...meaning you'll have to pull the actuator out about 1/8" to get it over the pin.

Evo III manifold (they're discontinued) or a crack-free 2G manifold with the collector ported to 60mm would be ideal.

 

[ThunderChild]

Someone bought a Kamak/Kinugawa compressor upgrade package and was apparently afraid to bend the arm a little to line up with the factory flapper lever so they got creative. Typically when someone who doesn't know what they're doing gets creative, performance suffers...so that's likely why a 20G that should be seeing full boost at 4k or below isn't getting there until 5k. I blame that hokey actuator setup not holding the flapper fully-closed.

Didn't even catch that till I read your post, that's definitely some jankness.

 

[JusMX141]

Didn't even catch that till I read your post, that's definitely some jankness.

It's not even welded, it's using a nut at the central pivot point. The spring tension on that portion of the housing is very high, I'm sure that janky setup is just flexing like crazy.

 

[2gGst98]

Thank you for that. I will get it taken care of.