looking for a new clutch

[talondude4]

Well my stock clutch is on its way out. I got the stock 7bolt engine, with some bolt on mods.


I was wondering if i changed my clutch to a 2100 if it would make my motor crankwalk.

I have exhuast,intake,i/c pipes(both),boost controller,and a exhuast on the way.

So will it kill the engine?

 

[reeper]

i wouldn't think so, it isn't that huge of a clutch just better than stock


here i found this

go about mid page, has a small graph


http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ecldrivetrain.htm

 

[No_Skillz]

The 2100 is a very reasonable clutch. It will not "make" your motor crankwalk. I have mine paired with a Fidanza and some SS lines. Couldn't ask for more.

 

[Turbo Talon 111]

oh please don't get the 2100 if you plan on doing any kind of performance mods and making decent times. it will slip on you. i used one with an evo 16G on low boost and i would slip. i almost want to say it slipped with high boost on the t-25. i'm using a centerforce dual friction clutch now and it works great. it doesn't have much more pedal pressure than the 2100 but it holds much better. i can make it slip if i want but i won't do it just from too much power. the SBR clutch uses the same principals. the next step up from this would be something along the lines of the 2600. that clutch holds like crazy but also produces a much greater pedal force which will certainly not help with avoiding crankwalk.

 

[talondude4]

Well here is the deal, my car is only fwd so i don't really have to worry about slipping. My goal is only 400whp.


let me know what you guys think, should i go bigger? I just don't need or have the money to swap a motor if it goes.(but a clutch is needed).

 

[daren_p]

Well being fwd the tires slip before the clutch so the 2100 will probably be fine for you, & it won't apply much more pressure to the thrust bearing compared to the stocker. Its the 2600 you have to watch. One I would recommend is the Center Force Dual friction. After doing alot of reasearch this is what I descided to go with. Can hold more torque then the 2100 and puts the same or less pressure on the thrust bearing. I know of different people who have run them for quite some time and are really happy with them & was recommended to me by a couple different shops. This is a clutch that is very crucial to break in properly if you want it to last/perform properly . I just installed mine and am still breaking it in.

 

[No_Skillz]

If you're looking for around 400whp, you should look into something more than the 2100. I personally am also shooting for around 400 and I know I will eventually have to upgrade.

 

[talondude4]

Well being fwd the tires slip before the clutch so the 2100 will probably be fine for you, & it won't apply much more pressure to the thrust bearing compared to the stocker. Its the 2600 you have to watch. One I would recommend is the Center Force Dual friction. After doing alot of reasearch this is what I descided to go with. Can hold more torque then the 2100 and puts the same or less pressure on the thrust bearing. I know of different people who have run them for quite some time and are really happy with them & was recommended to me by a couple different shops. This is a clutch that is very crucial to break in properly if you want it to last/perform properly . I just installed mine and am still breaking it in.

So if i were to get a 2100, what are the differances between the puck or disk?which one do I go with?
were you talking about the break in process for the 2100? or for some other clutch?

If so what has to be done to break it in?


center force dual friction? whats that mean?

 

[Nelsons91AWD]

Well my stock clutch is on its way out. I got the stock 7bolt engine, with some bolt on mods.


I was wondering if i changed my clutch to a 2100 if it would make my motor crankwalk.

I have exhuast,intake,i/c pipes(both),boost controller,and a exhuast on the way.

So will it kill the engine?

i have an ACT 2100 on my AWD car and i am making 300whp on my new setup and it is holding fine.
it sounds like you want to make quite a bit more.

My friend is building a 400-450 WHP 2g FWD. the clutch he decided on was the act 2600.

if your goals are 400 WHP i would go with that clutch.

 

[Nelsons91AWD]

oh please don't get the 2100 if you plan on doing any kind of performance mods and making decent times. it will slip on you. i used one with an evo 16G on low boost and i would slip. i almost want to say it slipped with high boost on the t-25. i'm using a centerforce dual friction clutch now and it works great. it doesn't have much more pedal pressure than the 2100 but it holds much better. i can make it slip if i want but i won't do it just from too much power. the SBR clutch uses the same principals. the next step up from this would be something along the lines of the 2600. that clutch holds like crazy but also produces a much greater pedal force which will certainly not help with avoiding crankwalk.

so you were making 330 ft-lbs of torque with your T-25.
running close to mid 12s?

i am running 21lbs of boost on an evo3 with an act 2100 and its not slipping.

http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/home.php?cat=16

 

[daren_p]

So if i were to get a 2100, what are the differances between the puck or disk?which one do I go with?
were you talking about the break in process for the 2100? or for some other clutch?

If so what has to be done to break it in?


center force dual friction? whats that mean?

Centerforce is the clutch manufacturer, and dual friction is the clutch model that I would recommend & was talking about. With this clutch the break in is critical. It uses different friction surfaces on both sides. It has a std full face on the pressure plate side, while it has a segmented side (like a puck style) on the flywheel side for greater holding power. There is abit of info here:

http://www.centerforce.com/clutches.tpl?cart=11464921591142091&subsection=clutchtypes

 

[jongreene]

breaking in clutch= no boost, no shifts over 3k, for aleast 500 miles ...basically if you want it to perform and last like it should you will baby the sh!$ out of it

 

[gsxpj6428]

ACT 2100 is a good clutch to get, with ## basic mods ## not overdoing it. it is just one step up from the stock clutch. very good for street drving, ive had to dsms that ive put it in.

 

[mjarrell20]

I see no reason why it would kill the motor or cause crankwalk. ACT's are good clutches you just have to have a monster of a left leg to push the clutch pedal. I'm a fan of Centerforce same good quality and much better pedal pressure. Either way's a good choice.

 

[talondude4]

thanks for the info guys, i think im ganna stay with the 2100, but do i get the puck or disk?

ok now im in a dalima i just read more on the centerforce clutch i may go with that.


well see.

 

[Turbo Talon 111]

so you were making 330 ft-lbs of torque with your T-25.
running close to mid 12s?

i am running 21lbs of boost on an evo3 with an act 2100 and its not slipping.

http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/home.php?cat=16

no i'm making about 280 torque with an evo 16G. before I did all that though the 2100 i used would slip. i was saying i think it was slipping even before i went to the 16g but I can't really remember.

what i'm saying is the 2100 will slip if you launch aggressively. its fine for easy street driving but any kind of hard launch and it will slip. even with low torque and horsepower. it simply doesn't have the holding force. especially for an AWD. Not entirely sure for a fwd but i wouldn't chance it with a weak clutch.


the reason a clutch can be an aid in causing crankwalk is because it puts pressure on the crank which can wear out the bearings. the less pedal pressure you have to deal with, the less pressure the crank bearings have to deal with.

trust me guys. i put alot of research into clutches before i bought my centerforce. i emailed questions to all the manufacturers as well as talking to a trustworthy dsm shop owner.

 

[sadsm]

If your car is a daily driver, I would recommend the disc. Been there done that with the puck style, and would not recommend any make the same mistake that I did. You will more than likely have a lot of chatter if you get the puck style as I did. Chatter can be described as wheel hop, but when you are merely cruising and trying to take it easy.

 

[Turbo Talon 111]

if the friction surface (whether disk or puck) has springs in it, it will chatter less. if you get a puck with no springs it will certainly chatter up a storm

 

[sadsm]

if the friction surface (whether disk or puck) has springs in it, it will chatter less. if you get a puck with no springs it will certainly chatter up a storm

I have heard several people say this, however when I took mine out, it did have springs on it. I am not saying do not get it, it is your money, I am saying that I had a very bad experience with my puck clutch. I am also doing the 6 bolt swap, due to crankwalk, and my mechanic says that it is probably due to the clutch.

 

[jongreene]

i have a SPEC 6 puck clutch and have no problems driving it everyday, definitely different from a street disc but after a few times driving everything is just as smooth

 

[daren_p]

Here is some clutch info from RRE, its about half way down the page.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ecldrivetrain.htm

My vote is still the centerforce, better on the thrust bearings and holds more torque then the 2100, should be a no brainer.