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Long Crank time when cold

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racingmason

10+ Year Contributor
71
0
Jan 11, 2011
Colorado Spring, Colorado
I havent been able to figure out why when my car is cold it takes 4-5 seconds of cranking to get it to start. But when its warm it fires off right away. Then only thing i can think of is i am loosing fuel pressure after it sits for a while.,
 
Have you replaced the fuel filter in the car yet, maybe throw some fuel treatment in the tank. Check your plugs out. Some car's have the cranking issue when cold and for some it's normal, and other's it's a a part going bad, If you have a D.V.O.M then check out your coolant temp sensor or better yet the wiring on it maybe it's starting to disconnect from the actual sensor could cause this issue as well
 
How cold are we talking? Maybe your battery does not have high enough cold cranking amps to start your car effectively.

Is your battery fully charged?

I'd start with the extreme basics and go from there.
 
Sounds like the battery just having a hard time. What's the CCA rating? How old is it? I'd suggest taking it down to the local auto parts store to have it tested.
 
Like already stated test the battery, but Id be more looking at the coolant temp sensor as I have had the same issues on my old 2g.
 
I don't know about the 2G difference but I know I just recently had the wires of my coolant temp sensor break off the connector. You can start the car but the ECU will think that the temp is a defualt temp and depending upon the outside temp, it may be easy to start or not... in my case 40's causes me to have to turn the car over about 5 different times consecuatively until it begins to catch (too lean for cold condition). Once it catches and starts to warm up, I can't drive for a couple minutes while it starts to warm up because depressing the gas pedal causes it to die. So in essence... its not the optimum condition but it is driveable.
 
Last edited:
Yes it will start but on a 2g youll get a check engine light if its unplugged.
 
If you have a manual the it should have the resistance test in there and tell you what range it should read when using a volt/ohm reader, you can check your battery at the same time

for the coolant temp sensor
 
its not the coolant temp sensors, it ohms out fine, and i have no cels, the battery is a new optima, new plugs, new fuel filter as well. It just takes 3 to 5 seconds to fire off when the car has sat over night, even when its 60 degrees outside. Im pretty sure its just losing fuel pressure over night, and with the pump not running untill it sees a signal from the cas, thats why its taking so long.
 
its not the coolant temp sensors, it ohms out fine, and i have no cels, the battery is a new optima, new plugs, new fuel filter as well. It just takes 3 to 5 seconds to fire off when the car has sat over night, even when its 60 degrees outside. Im pretty sure its just losing fuel pressure over night, and with the pump not running untill it sees a signal from the cas, thats why its taking so long.

overnight then it sounds like fuel pump bleeding off pressure, I must of missed you saying over night I thought it was just when cold.
 
I would look for a fuel leak. It sounds like the same problem I have. Mine leaks where the fuel line connects to the fuel rail...bad oring. If not that, maybe it is your fuel pump losing pressure.
 
I would look for a fuel leak. It sounds like the same problem I have. Mine leaks where the fuel line connects to the fuel rail...bad oring. If not that, maybe it is your fuel pump losing pressure.

Not always true as fuel injectors have been know to leak. Best way to pin point it is hook a gauge up and verify your bleeding off pressure, then split the system test at the fuel filter (gauge connected to filter injectors not hooked up) if the bleed down has no change its most likely the pump, if its holding pressure time to check injectors.
 
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