Lights slightly flicker with stereo

[DSMnOOb00]

So I'v noticed that my lights flicker abit when I have I'm stereo or have the turn signals on. So I checked my terminals and noticed that my battery only has one ground point to the firewall next to the battery..

My question; shouldn't there be more ground points?

Where is a good point to ground the battery to along side the firewall?

Thanks!

 

[NHerron]

My car does the same, alternator checks out okay along with the battery... And yeah that's all the grounds there is, one goes to firewall and the other goes to starter / transmission bolt

 

[dallasadkins90]

is it a factory radio if not check your ground on the radio

 

[luv2rallye]

Is it the dash lights that flicker?
Measure voltage across the battery with the stereo on. Also measure from battery plus to the firewall (meter negative on firewall).
Do all this with engine off then running.

 

[DSMnOOb00]

My car does the same, alternator checks out okay along with the battery... And yeah that's all the grounds there is, one goes to firewall and the other goes to starter / transmission bolt

Which bolt?? Where is it exactly, all I have is the one black with yellow stripe cable going to the firewall for ground.

I do have an aftermarket stereo, I'll check the ground but I'm sure it's okay..

I'll make sure to see what the battery puts out with the stereo one & off..

I'm thinking I should disconnect my stereo and see if the lights keep dimming... It's really noticeable when I have my turn signals on

 

[NHerron]

Is it the dash lights that flicker?
Measure voltage across the battery with the stereo on. Also measure from battery plus to the firewall (meter negative on firewall).
Do all this with engine off then running.

Hey luv2rallye I just went outside and did the tests

If you don't mind OP, I'll post my results since we have the same year and everything

Engine off, accessoires off - 12.21V
Engine off, hazards on - 11.96V lowest seen
Engine on @ 2K rpms no accessories - 14.45V
Engine on @ 2K, hazards on - 14.40V lowest seen

It didn't make a difference measuring from neg post as opposed to fiewall bolt
When hazard were off I still noticed a tad bit of dimming from other dash icons

Should I be concerned? Maybe inspect the dash grounds? Thanks

Which bolt?? Where is it exactly, all I have is the one black with yellow stripe cable going to the firewall for ground.

I attached a picture, it may be hard to see but you should have the other ground bolted through the trans / starter bolt

 

[DSMnOOb00]

Ah! Thanks!! I was thinking that maybe I should just replace the NEG cable going to the firewall with a slightly bigger cable too, I mean it couldn't hurt right??

My next step would be to disconnect my stereo and see how my car behaves

 

[NHerron]

I never researched to see if it really helps (in theory it should) but they sell grounding kits

 

[luv2rallye]

Engine off, accessoires off - 12.21V
Engine off, hazards on - 11.96V lowest seen
Engine on @ 2K rpms no accessories - 14.45V
Engine on @ 2K, hazards on - 14.40V lowest seen

With everything off the battery voltage should be 12.6v.
Sounds like either your battery is weak or you have a battery drain somewhere.

 

[la-panocha]

Grounding properly is very important. On my GS there is one ground from battery to body right behind the strut tower bolts and other goes to starter, my GSX there is one to firewall and other goes to a bolt on engine about 8" below TB.
Just the same for anything else like an amp/stereo, the ground can make or break a good set-up.
Check your ground wires for any corrosion or swelling in the wire casing.

As for readings, 12v engine off is normal and 14.4v while engine is running.
Faulty alternator regulators can cause flickering so maybe stopping at local parts store that tests alternators for free might help rule out alternator issues.

 

[luv2rallye]

Which bolt?? Where is it exactly, all I have is the one black with yellow stripe cable going to the firewall for ground.

I'm thinking I should disconnect my stereo and see if the lights keep dimming...

Look closely at the battery negative post. There should be (and almost has to be or your starter wouldn't work well) a 2nd cable, with it's own flat metal attaching piece on the battery post (usually under the other cable) which goes to the starter mounting bolt on the bell housing. Or the cable from the starter casing or engine block goes to the firewall/chassis somewhere. That works but not as reliable and without voltage drop as a cable from a starter mounting bolt directly to the battery negative post (and not to the end of the other battery cable going to the firewall).

Yes disconnect the stereo and amp to see effect.

Is flicker only when engine is running? If so, yes a faulty alt regulator could be the problem. But autostores do terrible alt testing - most just do a go/nogo test which doesn't find many problems (test will say it passes). If you suspect the alt, take it out and bring to an alt/starter repair shop for testing. And know that autostores are notorious for selling bad remanufactured alts - and I mean REALLY notorious - just search this forum and see.

 

[DSMnOOb00]

I'll make sure to check my grounds starting with the stereo wiring

 

[97tal]

And make sure you sand it down to bare metal for best connection

 

[DSMnOOb00]

Will do!! I'm ready with a wire brush!

 

[turboglenn]

If you have a sub, no amount of grounds and extra positives or anything will completely solve it.. I have about 5-6 grounds from engine to battery and then looping both off them to the body... Then i have 0 gauge alt wire coming from the alt to the battery and fuse box as well as have it setup on a distribution block where the alt's source wire is located to judge and determinew the alt's output.. This by all means with the chevy alt i have on there is said to be the best way you cansetup your charging system (and this is based off more than just DSM sites) and to this day i still get a flicker at night with the sub hitting because the lights, turn signal fuel pump etc.. all join togethert to put enough draw on the system to bring the metered voltage to say 14.1 before it can hop back to 14.3, it's this bouncing of voltage that just shows your voltage regulator working that some people notice more than others (its' worse when ou're trying ot get rid of it)

Anyway, my Sub makes my lights flicker about 70% of the time at night when i'm at a slow pace or in stop and go traffic

It even can be seen at steady cruise but you really have to look to notic it.. as long as your basic system voltage is high enough there's nothing to worry abou if your wires, grounds etc.. are all intact and in good shape

 

[NHerron]

Quick question Glenn.. the GM alt you have on your setup, is it basically the same walkthrough as the Saturn mod? We have a bunch of Chevrolet Suburbans around here with the 1wire alternators that I could pick up cheap through my shop

Thanks G

 

[MikeSD]

If you have a sub, no amount of grounds and extra positives or anything will completely solve it.. I have about 5-6 grounds from engine to battery and then looping both off them to the body... Then i have 0 gauge alt wire coming from the alt to the battery and fuse box as well as have it setup on a distribution block where the alt's source wire is located to judge and determinew the alt's output.. This by all means with the chevy alt i have on there is said to be the best way you cansetup your charging system (and this is based off more than just DSM sites) and to this day i still get a flicker at night with the sub hitting because the lights, turn signal fuel pump etc.. all join togethert to put enough draw on the system to bring the metered voltage to say 14.1 before it can hop back to 14.3, it's this bouncing of voltage that just shows your voltage regulator working that some people notice more than others (its' worse when ou're trying ot get rid of it)

Anyway, my Sub makes my lights flicker about 70% of the time at night when i'm at a slow pace or in stop and go traffic

It even can be seen at steady cruise but you really have to look to notic it.. as long as your basic system voltage is high enough there's nothing to worry abou if your wires, grounds etc.. are all intact and in good shape

wouldn't a capacitor on the sub power supply help eliminate that bounce?

 

[turboglenn]

wouldn't a capacitor on the sub power supply help eliminate that bounce?

Yea, probably but i'm not a big bass bumpin type, just a single 12 and a small 200watt amp to backup the mids and highs

As for the chevy alt, it is a saturn alt..the saturn just uses a checvy "CS" style alternator, the saturn model is so the mounting tabs line up is why we ick it for that model but ijust use one from a 96 saturn SC2

 

[MikeSD]

Yea, probably but i'm not a big bass bumpin type, just a single 12 and a small 200watt amp to backup the mids and highs

As for the chevy alt, it is a saturn alt..the saturn just uses a checvy "CS" style alternator, the saturn model is so the mounting tabs line up is why we ick it for that model but ijust use one from a 96 saturn SC2

I am not a big bass guy either, I just have a single 8" jbl on a mono block.

But if it was causing flicker....like the OP is talking about....a capacitor would smooth out the problem.

 

[DSMnOOb00]

I have a single 12" with a 600watt amp, I would understand the bass hitting causing the flicker, but it happens with everything, even a turn signal will cause all the lights to dim slightly... Any extra load on the battery causes my lights to dim.

 

[GSLENK]

a capacitor would smooth out the problem.

oh god. A little research will prove contrary to this statement. Capacitors serve no purpose in car audio in this application. (yes they are used in amps/crossovers, but those are circuit board sized and obviously serve a purpose).

The correct way is:
Wires/size/connections (power and grounds)
Battery (that's your "capacitor")
Alternator

That's it.

 

[mattasi]

I have a single 12" with a 600watt amp, I would understand the bass hitting causing the flicker, but it happens with everything, even a turn signal will cause all the lights to dim slightly... Any extra load on the battery causes my lights to dim.

Mine is the same way, sounds about normal to me to be honest.

 

[Black95awd]

oh god. A little research will prove contrary to this statement. Capacitors serve no purpose in car audio in this application. (yes they are used in amps/crossovers, but those are circuit board sized and obviously serve a purpose).

The correct way is:
Wires/size/connections (power and grounds)
Battery (that's your "capacitor")
Alternator

That's it.

The capacitor would store a charge that would soften the blow to the charging system with a spike in amplifier draw. This is a common thing in the car audio industry. Please do a little checking before posting incorrect information.