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Lets talk Difs.

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Leon, just get a diff from ebay. $175 shipped. All the rest of you, you are making a mountain out of a molehill. It's easy.

1. Buy an evo lsd for $175 on ebay
2. Install in your existing rear end housing, being sure to follow good gear setup practices.
3. Buy a set of evo inner cups from ebay for $75. They are identical l/r, and longer than a non-lsd rear cup.
4. Install evo cups on your LSD rear axles
5. Profit.
This is the exact process I used on my talon.
I don't understand the need for 10 pages of back and forth about what works and what doesn't.

Now if you are really hard up, well equipped with a machine shop, and willing to use your grey matter, you can make a front axle cup work...

Finally the guy wanting to get the DSS stage 5's. ehh. save your money. Them things are a half assed POS. Just find a decent set of 4bolt axles and cups. If you are super bonering about the dss axles, it's simple all you need is a dsm axle with an evo outer cup. They should be able to do that.
 
Ahh forgot you are playing with that summit. Yeah your on your own on that deal. But anyway, they were like $175 when I got mine. Just a little more right now.
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Hmm I got a set too. Hopefully we both get them. Some day all of mine will be for sale, I'm eventually going to do a 3/s rear. Got all the stuff for it, but I quit breaking shit when I went back to a 4 spider CD.

What does your summit axles look like? I have a cup that may help you.
 
I bought an Evo III center section without a ring gear for 150 on eBay and also bought evoIII inner cups off eBay for 50 bucks. Both came from Malaysia.
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Non-LSD cups do lock into place when used with an Evo 8 LSD in a 2g housing - the short LSD cup does not lock into place. I do not make much torque, but I have enough grip to have broken several axle shafts over the years running ProSolo events (usually at the inboard spline root), but the only cup that ever got damaged was when I accidentally used a short LSD cup - the damage shown in twicks69's image is identical to the damage I had when using the short LSD cup, except mine only lasted 2 ProSolos before failing.

I sent dimensions of the non-LSD cups to my first rear LSD supplier (whose name fails me right now), they compared them to the Evo cups they sold and they were externally identical - certainly to within a millimetre. The non-LSD cups I used were original to the car, it came with a non-LSD rear from the factory.

Edit - Kaaz was my LSD supplier.
 
Yes I did read that. The non-LSD cups in my diff snap in just as they did in the original non-LSD - the only way to remove them is with a pry bar. It is quite difficult to tell the difference between a non-LSD cup and an LSD short cup, until you have them sitting next to each other, there's only a very small difference.
 
Non-LSD cups do lock into place when used with an Evo 8 LSD in a 2g housing - the short LSD cup does not lock into place. I do not make much torque, but I have enough grip to have broken several axle shafts over the years running ProSolo events (usually at the inboard spline root), but the only cup that ever got damaged was when I accidentally used a short LSD cup - the damage shown in twicks69's image is identical to the damage I had when using the short LSD cup, except mine only lasted 2 ProSolos before failing.

I sent dimensions of the non-LSD cups to my first rear LSD supplier (whose name fails me right now), they compared them to the Evo cups they sold and they were externally identical - certainly to within a millimetre. The non-LSD cups I used were original to the car, it came with a non-LSD rear from the factory.

Edit - Kaaz was my LSD supplier.


I don't think that Tim is saying they don't fit, as they obviously still click into place. (The Cups.) More like there is less surface area of contact with the cup and the diff. However, we all don't make the same tq/hp as Tim so most might be ok.

Autocrosser's don't know how to launch AWD cars for some reason. I've seen more AWD issues at Prosolo's than I've seen at the dragstrip and I've only attended one ProSolo.
 
Guys, I just got a pair of those EVO3 axle cups from Malaysia. As Charles has claimed and Tim contested, EVO3 cups appear to be IDENTICAL to non-LSD axles cup!

For non-LSD cup, I used my Summit non-LSD cup and I am assuming that it is has the same protrusion into the diff as DSM non-LSD axle. Can someone with DSM non-LSD “4 bolt axle” please confirm it for me (57.30mm)
 

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Seriously, stop. We don't want your guesses and you clearly have no idea how a helical works. They are all GEARED to be 50/50. They can distribute torque anywhere from 20/80 to 80/20, but they are native 50/50 splits. They have to be.

At a minimum, read this before posting again, please: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/410949-awd-dsm-torque-split-distribution.html
I know this is 6 years late, but to prevent misinformation, the Torsen in the SCE 3kgt center diff is actually 40/60, with the ability to go from 20/80 to 65/35 iirc. The difference is that it is not a normal Torsen, it is a type 3 planetary. That diff is actually an OEM Toyota part, from like 05+ 4runner or something.

The Quaife center that fits our cars should only be 50/50, but I swear I rear somewhere official like that it isn't, and has a rear bias.

Lastly, on diffs like the Cusco tarmac 35/65, the input and output shafts spin the same rpm unless there is wheel spin/mismatched tires - meaning that you can in fact run the viscous coupler while running maintaining a 35/65 power split. All the vcu does is try to enforce the front and rear to run at the same speed. In fact if it did happen to lock up it would simply enforce the 35/65 that is provided by the differential, even though the end that was spinning might not use up all the available torque. I can't comment on what odd handling it may impart though.

The Cusco 35/65 is a planetary differential, and operates on the same principles as the 3kgt center diff, although it is a different design.

I know this may seem counter-intuitive, but it's correct. I've been looking at this for a while - reading papers - making drawings and models - playing with real parts. It's true. 40/60 torsen, and same speed input/output. I really truly wish we could have a t3 torsen style diff. I think it would be a major help for us guys that like to play in a straight line.
 
I just bought rear diff and it has some funny paper on the plates. Anyone ever seen that? I never did as I don't have much experience with differentials. Should I open it? Any info is helpful.
 

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just ordered the last set of axle cups on ebay.
 
Alrighty. I hate this. I always have to go over someone else's work. It looks like someone made shim. If anyone has had these things apart maybe you can shade some light over here.
 

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You think I should open it up and remeasure the clutch discs? Take the shim out of leave it in? I would think if you need a shim then the clutches are worn out. Correct me if I am wrong.
 
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