Leaky head

[TeclipseFTW]

First start after rebuild Idles great but constant drip from what it appears to be from the head gasket. I used the metal Mitsubishi gasket for the evo 4g63's. I didn't have my head or block decked. I am using arp studs also. Do I need to have the block out of the car for it to be decked if necessary? And I know I have heard of head gasket replacement jobs without having to do anything to the front of the engine, meaning no timing belt crap to go through with the engine in the car. Is that possible? Just un bolt the cam sprokets and keep the belt nice and tight and make sure no teeth skip or anything. It would jus make the head gasket replacement soooo much easier. Hope it is possible and that I don't have to get my head decked!
Please help
thanks guys

 

[lacroixdp]

If you are using a MLS gasket, it is very strongly recommended to mill both the head and the block. This does require the block to be taken out and brought to a machine shop. The RA required for proper sealing on the mating surfaces is just not possible with hand tools. If this is prohibitively expensive, or just not feasible, I would recommend sticking with a composite head gasket. They hold plenty of power and are much more forgiving on the quality of the finish on the mating surfaces. Even if you do go with the composite gasket, you still need to take the head in and have it checked. You'll also need to check your block for warpage. You can do this by using a machinist's straight edge front to front, side to side, and diagonally - if you can fit in a feeler gauge through the middle than your block will need serviced as well.

 

[TeclipseFTW]

Hey you live in normal? I'm only 10 miles east of you, maybe you could help... So composit gasket meaning the stock one? And do you know about doing a headgasket job without messing with the timing?

 

[lacroixdp]

I'm getting ready to start a new job, so I don't have a ton of free time at the moment. I might be able to lend a hand for a few hours Thursday though. Yes, composite HG is the stock one. You can buy one from any of the supported vendors on here such as Extreme PSI - they are pretty inexpensive. Personally, I always redo the timing after taking off the head - I'd worry about screwing up the tension of the belt.

 

[TOONAH]

Both the head surface and the block deck must be better than 50 RA's. That is what Cometic recommend.

 

[rush2252]

I dont think its feasible to remove the CAM gears and not redo the timing. Its really not that BIG of a PITA..

 

[TeclipseFTW]

Well with the engine in the car I think it's a PITA! Doesn't the water pump have to be removed when I re do the timing?

 

[rush2252]

Not on a turbo car. THe water pump runs off of an accesory belt not the timing belt. IMO its not a PITA.

 

[TeclipseFTW]

Good to know, I've done the timing twice I just couldn't remember if the water pump was involved or not