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Leaking clutch fluid near pedal.

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maxsideburn

15+ Year Contributor
35
0
Jul 13, 2005
Lafayette, Louisiana
I recently noticed that I'm leaking a small amount of clutch fluid up under the dash, I also noticed that some little plastic ring seems to have cracked and fallen from up under there. Any idea what this is and how to go about fixing it?
 
Do you have a picture of the plastic ring? There are some plastic bushings in the pedal assembly, and also in the mechanism that connects the pedal assembly to your clutch master cylinder. If the ring is small, like less than half an inch in diameter, I would say it could be from the clevis connecting your pedal assembly to the clutch master cylinder rod. If you are leaking fluid under there, your clutch master cylinder probably needs replacing.

If you look through this thread

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1632002#post1632002

you can see some pictures of what it looks like under there.
 
boosted_91_tsi said:
^^ Master cylinder gone bad. It is a good idea to replace the slave cylinder while you are at it. I am sure it is not far behind.


Yup, as mentioned on the rear seals is leaking into the car, as the back of the master cylnder is under the dash.

You can by a rebuilt kit, but your best bet is probably a new one, where they cost anywhere for 60 to 150 bucks depending on the brand/quality.
 
I bought my Nabco OEM master cylinder off of ebay for like $70. I think it was ongreenperformance but they have nothing listed at the moment. Thats not to bad of a price and I would do that instead of rebuilding.
 
maxsideburn said:
what about a "clutch master cylinder kit" to rebuild the current one I have? any chance that would stop it from leaking into the footwell like it's doing now?

If you are going to rebuild the master cylinder I would highly recommend that you hone the cylinder. You can get the tools to do it at any parts store. If you do not do so there is a chance that any imperfections in the cylinder bore (say a scratch from debris) could mean the new parts wouldn't function properly or they could be damaged by a sharp edge. It isn't likely but it is worth avoiding.

Personally, I'd just go buy a new or rebuilt one, especially if you don't want to hone the bore.
 
eclipsh said:
If you are going to rebuild the master cylinder I would highly recommend that you hone the cylinder. You can get the tools to do it at any parts store. If you do not do so there is a chance that any imperfections in the cylinder bore (say a scratch from debris) could mean the new parts wouldn't function properly or they could be damaged by a sharp edge. It isn't likely but it is worth avoiding.

Personally, I'd just go buy a new or rebuilt one, especially if you don't want to hone the bore.


I thought they were made of aluminum and when you hone aluminum well forget the explination it dosn't work that well. I may be wrong though I would just go with a new one.
 
that link showed something completely different than how I changed mine. Wasn't hard really, just unbolted it from the firewall, removed the little metal line, undid the cotter pin under the dash, then repeated the process in reverse for install. I bled the clutch this morning and took her out for her first spin in my ownership.

VERY fun car to drive, but the AWD takes some getting used to. It makes the car feel so much different than anything I've driven before.
 
I thought they were made of aluminum and when you hone aluminum well forget the explination it dosn't work that well. I may be wrong though I would just go with a new one.

You may very well be correct on this. I'm just going off what my mechanic told me. Please do offer up the explanation :thumb:
 
I had the same problem with it leaking, I just went to O'Reillys and picked one up it was like 45 or so. Wasn't to hard to put on, and works great. The only thing that ever went wrong is that I did not replace the slave cylinder and the slave cylinder busted and was stuck in gear until I replaced it. But no problem with the new master cylinder.
 
You may very well be correct on this. I'm just going off what my mechanic told me. Please do offer up the explanation :thumb:

Ok so this is to the best of my knowledge. The honning tool is kind of like sand paper so I will use ths as my example. say you sand paint for a while the paint rubs off and eventualy it gets cloged and you end up getting a uneven sand only little spots of the thing you are sanding gets sanded and it tunrs out un smooth and uneven. so with that in mind it is the same thing as honning aluminum the aluminum cloggs the honning tool very fast because it melts very fast it is like putting a piece of aluminum to a bench grinder it takes the material off very quickly. so when it cloges the tool you put little pockets in the cylinder ( kind of like the uneven sand you got the) then fluind gets past the little pockets and ends up leaking agian. now honning it does sometimes work it is a 50/50 chance. but I wouldn't take the chance I would just get a new one.
 
So what about honing at low speeds to avoid excessive heat or wet-honing similar to wet-sanding?

Interesting info btw :) I forgot about aluminum clogging things up so fast.

I think it can be done it accutualy has been done many times before just some people do it and wonder why it didn't work.
 
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