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knock wont go away!!! please help

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well i still have the stock smic my car is all stock. but i tought about a cold air intake dejon makes one for 1g. but yea it rains alot here too when you get a chance send me a link or pics of the splash shield. but i should be ordering a front mount soon :D

Now your just being lazy.

Go thru this whole thread, I posted on the last couple pages...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...ght.html?highlight=Cold+air+intake+done+right

This one is more recent. I posted pics in here too of my " newer" CAI setup

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/298216-cold-air-intake-project-2.html
 
im not lazy just very busy, but i drove like 60 miles tonight didnt boost once and never got a count of knock, ive been told its boost leak?

A quick way to find out if knock is real or not is to throw in some race gas when your tank gets low and if you still get the same knock its a good chance its fake.

Boost leak tests should be done regardless, and on top of that check out everything else while your at it to make sure its maintained. Make sure that knocksensor isnt too tight or too loose, amd make sure the sensor is even good in the first place. The goo should still be in it intact, if its running out then its bad.
 
A quick way to find out if knock is real or not is to throw in some race gas when your tank gets low and if you still get the same knock its a good chance its fake.

Boost leak tests should be done regardless, and on top of that check out everything else while your at it to make sure its maintained. Make sure that knocksensor isnt too tight or too loose, amd make sure the sensor is even good in the first place. The goo should still be in it intact, if its running out then its bad.

incase you didnt read everything ive said in this thread i have a new knock sensor, new o2 knock sensor it at 16ft/lbs i think dont remember excact torque number off top of my head. dont have access to race gas around me, ill try to find some tomorrow. what should the knock sensor be torqued at?
 
incase you didnt read everything ive said in this thread i have a new knock sensor, new o2 knock sensor it at 16ft/lbs i think dont remember excact torque number off top of my head. dont have access to race gas around me, ill try to find some tomorrow. what should the knock sensor be torqued at?

Yea I either didnt read everything or forgot, but as far as the torque, I always just gave it a few turns with the wrench until it was snug.
 
Good old 6 bolt with phantom knock. It seems to be a big issue on this block. I had the same issue and now I'm running e85 and still I see knock. Ive pretty much rulled it out as PK. Does it even knock if you try to go WOT starting around 4k-4500k?

Try doing a log starting around 4000rpm and if you start to see a lot of knock release the gas and hit it WOT again pretty quick. This usually will get rid of the knock so you can get a clean run.

If I start around 4000rpm I never see knock but sometimes when I switch gears it comes back. Its a big issue and thats another reason I want to get dsmlink for the PK features. I'm almost to the point of removing the knock sensor but I wouldnt do that unless you know what you doing.
 
yes i do that all the time, i go do a pull at wot it knocks i let off the wot it again no knock, bu tif i dont boost at all i dont get knock, maybe like 1-2 counts, and i have blown struts, and bad ball joints, with bad motor mounts can this cause PK? i just ordered new mounts yesterday
 
Yea anythings possible...
In my chip Its setup to ignore the knock sensor under 3k for PK purposes. Id say most of the PK will occure in the low rpms.

I recall like a little over a year ago I had PK issues because my DP used to sit smack into my Tcase due to the ackward angle of the Evo O2 housing.
 
Can a bad ball joint really cause pk?:confused:

I've seen it before when diagnosing a car that would sometimes take off hard and others it would just build boost and the car seemed like it just wouldn't "go" . Driving around pulling logs and watching the info in real time and seeing timing get pulled when the ball joint would clank especially on a downshift to WOT run. We replaced both front lower control arms and the problem went away, so i would have to say in my experiences, Yes a ball joint can cause phantom knock

Even if that's not the suspect, it still enver hurts to check EVERYTHING including suspension when chasing PK.
 
I've seen it before when diagnosing a car that would sometimes take off hard and others it would just build boost and the car seemed like it just wouldn't "go" . Driving around pulling logs and watching the info in real time and seeing timing get pulled when the ball joint would clank especially on a downshift to WOT run. We replaced both front lower control arms and the problem went away, so i would have to say in my experiences, Yes a ball joint can cause phantom knock

Even if that's not the suspect, it still enver hurts to check EVERYTHING including suspension when chasing PK.

well ill find out next month im replacing control arms, struts, and springs, if money is there all the bushings too. i have blown sturts, and bad ball joints so i think that might be where some of my pk is coming from
 
one more thing, on my data logger it has fuel trims and jsut driving around at like 2500rpm low fuel trim goes to around 117% is this normal or should it stay at 100?
 
one more thing, on my data logger it has fuel trims and jsut driving around at like 2500rpm low fuel trim goes to around 117% is this normal or should it stay at 100?

Do you tune with a maft? It should stay closer to 100.
I know under 100 means its leaning towards a rich condition, over 100 means the ecu is adding a lot of fuel to keep the stoich ratio. The fuel trims only stretch so far,
like it wont go lower than 81% because the ecu is maxed out on how much it can add, but I dont know how high above 100% it can go before it maxes out; something like that.
Someone else could better explain.Either way, something is off a little in your tune.
 
my tune is completely stock with no maft or anything else that would make it rich/ lean and no vacuum leaks and was also seeing high, over 120, fuel trims. and experiencing the knock he was and ill be damned if the same day his car ran better due to it being cooler out mine did also. i found out after looking that somewhere along the line i missed that the egr valve was unhooked. i hooked it all back up and took it for a ride, fuel trims are getting closer to 100 and im not seeing any knock. make sure your egr is hooked up and working/not blocked inside.
 
Your fuel trims are a little off but it wont hurt anything, you cant adjust it anyways. I can say I have checked everything that could cause PK and I have not fixed it yet. Only thing left is changing out my lifters since the tick a little. Cant wait to get dsmlink so I can use the PK features.
 
yea i know what you mean, i would have link now but i need a eprom first. so you think my car is running a little lean?

is your egr valve hooked up? as you know ive been chasing the same symptoms as you, this morning i hooked the 2 lines up to the egr that someone had taken off and its running better than it ever has. and my fuel trims went from 119 down to 102, just a thought
 
Your car sounds allot like mine and its only getting worse as it goes on...

I just rebuilt my throttle body because it was a source of a massive boost leak, I thought was causing my ecu to "Dump" fuel and pull timing.

But I get FULL Knock counts every time i hit boost and my fuel trims are maxed at 10:0 on my Wide band afr, So it just falls on its face :mad: I have A MAFT and even with base settings my Fuel trims are all over the place....I need to get a Datalogger * i borrowed one * to continue tuning, (Witch for me has been the most difficult thing ever done to my car)
I am so Tired of this car at this point I almost want to give up...

I have a Clutch I just put in a few miles ago with a AWFUL Throw out bearing chatter that may be causing my PK, and a bad rear end, and a transfer case that is wirring under decel...

Honestly My car was MUCH faster when I never knew that my Knock sensor was MISSING and With the Stock turbo setup at who knows what boost level * i had no boost gauge and a broken actuator on a 3" exhaust* Now I get beat by Trailblazers with NOTHING.....:nono:
 
i think my egr maybe be causing part of my PK along with bad turbo now, bad ball joints, blow struts, bad motor mounts. but motor mounts and egr block off plate on the way as we speak. also its hot hear like weather sucks one day my air temps are 98-110 the next they will be 120 at idle. so hopefully this week i will also be getting a front mount maybe cold air intake once i get a maf-t.
 
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