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Knock Sensor

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gamingguru

15+ Year Contributor
306
1
Jun 8, 2004
Merriam, Kansas
I need to know what the voltage range is on a 6-bolt knock sensor. I messed up my 2g one and am going to use a older one because I can't seem to find a new one for sale around here.

Let me know.

And by the way, I have an EMS so I will be able to manually adjust the ammount of retard and fuel enrichment based on the knock sensor voltage.
 
knock sensors don't have a voltage range. They work similar to a microphone but it has an internal filter that seperates the typical engine noise from the "ping" that is made when your engine knocks. As far as I know, if it bolts into your engine and it connects to your harness w/ no problems, then you should be okay.
 
I'm tring to find out for sure that a 2G Kock sensor will work on a 1G. I had heard about this and picked one up and installed it. All I get is a knock sensor fault. Sorry if this is a little off topic.
 
The knock sensor is made of a quartz crystal inside.. that when compressed creates its own voltage. It sends this voltage to the ecu that how the ecu knows when there is knock.
 
I don't know much about knock sensors but I'd thought I'd share what I do. My local shop here gave me alot of pressure to "upgrade" to a 2nd gen sensor... why? I dunno. They felt strongly that the 2nd gen is superior... Hmm.
 
I guess that it is off to the dealership for me then. I didn't know that the 1g sensors had less of a sensativity than the 2g ones. Thanks for the info.
 
Would a 2g sensor bolt into my 6 bolt block? If so I might pick one up because I'll be replacing mine soon, I have tons of phantom knock. Also, with the 2g sensor being more sensative, would it pick up other engine noises other than knock and cause pk?
 
Eh I dunno but I replaced my knock sensor not too long ago. I was able to see some goo on it from under the car so I replaced it. It still pulls timing unfortunately.
 
The 2g sensor fits in the 6 bolt block. Not sure about pulling timing though.
 
My car is showing a knock count of up to 43 before even hitting boost. It pulls timing horribly. So I will be replacing my knock sensore and I just ordered new upgraded lifters b/c I think they may be the cause of phantom knock. I HATE phantom knock. When my timing gets pulled, I could get beat by a geo metro! :talon:
 
10-4. Oh how I do love my AEM... DSM link is of course cheaper, but there are so many more things you can do with a standalone. :thumb:
 
steve said:
Unless your running an AEM EMS you want to use the knock sensor that matches the car 1G in a 1G, 2G in a 2G. The sensor is matched to the circuitry in the ECU.

Steve

A local dsm shop in my area msade me put a 2g knock sensor in my car and it's working fine
 
This thread strengthens my conviction to never get work down by a "local" shop. A knock sensor is a critical safety feature on you vehicle. You should never switch something like that because a shop says it’s "an upgrade”. How is it better? If it's more sensitive then you get more timing pulled. If it’s less sensitive you get knock and maybe engine damage. If the ecu is expecting something it’s not seeing then you could be in big trouble.

Unless you really know what you are doing (i.e. have a standalone and know how to use it) never swap knock sensors.

My 2 cents
 
the 1G and 2G sensors differ in design are NOT interchangeable. I tried it myself and you will get a CEL for knock sensor with a 2G sensor in a 1G car.

I second the idea the 2G sensor is much more discriminate in detecting knock. I installed a 2G sensor along with a J&S safeguard to eliminate my phantom knock problem.

it went from 43 counts almost continuously to nothing. I olccasionally get 4 degrees retard on one cylinder after my SMIC heatsoaks other than that nothing.

And my car is driveable again. For 550$ though.
 
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