GooeyGus
10+ Year Contributor
- 459
- 1
- Sep 23, 2009
-
Marysville,
Washington
Hello,
Well, I finally changed my knock sensor today and it feels as if my retarded timing issue is resolved

The silicone was completely gone from the back of the old sensor, and I could see the guts on the inside.
I got the old sensor out and popped the new one in, it was super easy and took me about 5 minutes (thanks to no AC bracket).
When I went to plug in the new sensor, I realized I had a wire broken AT the harness where the sensor plugs in.
Shit.
It was connected when I unplugged the old one, but it looks like the wire was corroded and just broke with the slightest bit of pressure.
"No big deal", I thought. I clipped both ends of the plug off; on the engine wiring side and on the new sensor side, and decided to just solder the connections.
This turned into a 2 hour ordeal.
I am a pretty darn good solderer; I do a lot of SMT work on small boards. BUT it turns out that soldering irons dont like to work when it's 35 degrees outside. I first tried my 20W iron, since it's the one I use for everything. Too cold outside. I tried two more before I said "F it" and grabbed my 80W soldering "gun". This one worked, but barely.
SO after I finally got solder connections that I was happy with, I added heatshrink to everything and started her up. Everything seems fine, the car definitely 'got its balls back' from the new sensor, but I have two questions:
1. is there anything wrong with just directly soldering the wires? I connected black to black and red to white (just like the factory plugs do)
2. is there anywhere I can get the factory plug for the engine harness? It will sure be a pain in the ass in the future if I have to cut/solder these wires any time I need to pull the knock sensor. OR is there any way I can disassemble the factory plug so I can re-solder wires to the pins? I tried for about a half hour before giving up and soldering the wires directly. If anyone can tell me how to disassemble the plugs so I can get the pins out, I'll be set.
thanks! Sorry for the long post, but I had to vent a bit. I planned on doing a whole lot more to the car today, but then this sucked up all my time.
Well, I finally changed my knock sensor today and it feels as if my retarded timing issue is resolved


The silicone was completely gone from the back of the old sensor, and I could see the guts on the inside.
I got the old sensor out and popped the new one in, it was super easy and took me about 5 minutes (thanks to no AC bracket).
When I went to plug in the new sensor, I realized I had a wire broken AT the harness where the sensor plugs in.
Shit.
It was connected when I unplugged the old one, but it looks like the wire was corroded and just broke with the slightest bit of pressure.
"No big deal", I thought. I clipped both ends of the plug off; on the engine wiring side and on the new sensor side, and decided to just solder the connections.
This turned into a 2 hour ordeal.
I am a pretty darn good solderer; I do a lot of SMT work on small boards. BUT it turns out that soldering irons dont like to work when it's 35 degrees outside. I first tried my 20W iron, since it's the one I use for everything. Too cold outside. I tried two more before I said "F it" and grabbed my 80W soldering "gun". This one worked, but barely.
SO after I finally got solder connections that I was happy with, I added heatshrink to everything and started her up. Everything seems fine, the car definitely 'got its balls back' from the new sensor, but I have two questions:
1. is there anything wrong with just directly soldering the wires? I connected black to black and red to white (just like the factory plugs do)
2. is there anywhere I can get the factory plug for the engine harness? It will sure be a pain in the ass in the future if I have to cut/solder these wires any time I need to pull the knock sensor. OR is there any way I can disassemble the factory plug so I can re-solder wires to the pins? I tried for about a half hour before giving up and soldering the wires directly. If anyone can tell me how to disassemble the plugs so I can get the pins out, I'll be set.
thanks! Sorry for the long post, but I had to vent a bit. I planned on doing a whole lot more to the car today, but then this sucked up all my time.
