Knock Off HKS SSQV spinning around on Flange?

[meliketoball]

Hey guys I just bought a knock off of the HKS SSQV and I put that sucker on my flange. It had the O-ring in the flange and when I finished putting the c-clip or snap ring on(piece of cake by the way. ) I can move it with my hand.

I ignored it and put it in my car and it leaks like a mother! First, I didn't have the vacuum line hooked up properly because it was too big and I didn't have a small enough clamp.

So, minus all of that, should I worry about the looseness or is everyone's SSQV like that on their flanges?

Another Question is that, is setting the screw in all the way to harden and out to soften?



Maybe some on can AIM me @ ismethajametovic and we can chat about this. Thanks!

 

[SwitchSkier]

Are you sure the snap ring is on right? Mine was deffinetly a pain to get in. My HKS is pretty stiff on the flange and will not really spin, however, one of my friends has one and it pretty much freely spins in the flange. It doesn't leak at all, and he does have the o-ring in. The fact that your snap ring was to easy to get in could be the reason why it isn't holding as tight as it should. I would take it apart, and make sure you have the snap ring with the tapered side up, and that its completely seated in the flange. As long as it doesn't leak the spinning shouldn't matter.

 

[Jeff822]

My SSQV spun prett freely on the flange when I had it, it didnt leak at all either.

 

[tsunari]

If it's installed properly and it's doing that . . . I would say either stop buying cheap knock-off Chinese junk and get the real-deal, or go buy some other brand/type of cheap knock-off chinese piece of junk and see if that works any better.

Honestly . . . not attacking you or anything . . . but if you're even half-way serious about building a performance machine, why cheap-out on such a critical part? Save the going cheap route for something like headlights, tail lights, boost controler, CF hood, etc . . .

And yea- it should be pretty damned difficult to get the big 'C' clip in and afterwords (unless you lightly lubricated the o-ring -- good idea) the BOV should not turn freely.

Good luck

 

[bluetlr2001]

I had one on my car and it was real stiff to spin but my buddie put one on his civic and it spun freely and leaked real bad. So i took the o-ring out of mine and put it in his and it tightened it up. There didnt look to a difference in te size of teh o-ring but there was. So i would go c if you can find a thicker o-ring or if a shop near you has an actual hks o-ring. Im betting the o-ring you got is probally red.

 

[forcefed 95]

Like wise mine is pretty tight on the my flange as well. Altough i never really had a reason to go just try and spin it for the hell of to see. But i do know if it wasnt stiff it would move from as many times as i have bumped it working around it.

 

[TSIMonsteR]

All of the SSQVs I have seen would turn on the flange. Knock-offs and the real thing.

 

[tkelly27]

Do a boost leak test. Squirt some soapy water around the O ring. If there are no bubbles... let it spin!

HEY! I noticed you're nearly, like, 100% stock, man. Shouldn't you be recirculating anyways? The recirc. tube will keep it aligned.

 

[meliketoball]

Well guys, I forgot to mention is that when I bought the new Knock off SSQV, the guy gave me his torn apart genuine HKS SSQV. I switched the internals out into the fake nicer frame. If you guys never took a SSQV apart the genuine HKS's have a purple valve and the Knock off's have a Chrome Valve. Other then that, I basically have a real one now.

And as for the c-clip or O-ring. My O-ring is red, I did lube it with DOW 55 (if any of you guys are familiar with that stuff; if you're not, its a lubricant that swells up urethane.) for leaking precautions and WOW I've heard things about putting the C-clip in the flange well..GOOD GOD! It was a piece of CAKE! First try took like 5 mins then the 2nd took like 5 SECONDS!

If it shall leak again today, I am just going to put some RTV on the rim of the flange. I'll let you guys know!

 

[meliketoball]

If it's installed properly and it's doing that . . . I would say either stop buying cheap knock-off Chinese junk and get the real-deal, or go buy some other brand/type of cheap knock-off chinese piece of junk and see if that works any better.:

There's been good reviews on the Knock off HKS style SSQV's. Haven't there been?

 

[JeanDSM]

a friend of mine had the same problem, the BOV never leaked but the valve didnt ove like it should and after 2 months the turbo was blown

 

[meliketoball]

JeanDSM- Damn that sucks.

Anyway, I put that sucker in un-circulated. It idles fine and blows off/vents off perfectly.

 

[bluetlr2001]

it seems the red 0-ring that my buddy go with his knock off that he put on his civic was just a little smaller in diameter and a weaker material than teh black o-ring i got with mine. his would spin around real easily with the red o-ring on it but when he changed the o-ring out with the thicker black one it only spun if you forced it to. So like i said i would go find a bigger diameter o-ring that is waht we done and it fixed his leak and stopped it from spinning easily

 

[tkelly27]

Anyway, I put that sucker in un-circulated. It idles fine and blows off/vents off perfectly.

Bring a spark plug socket and file with you. When your plugs foul (it's not an if, just trust me) and your engine dies, you can pop them out, file them, and they will get you home until you can wire wheel them. Or get new ones I guess.

 

[silverbullett]

JeanDSM- Damn that sucks.

Anyway, I put that sucker in un-circulated. It idles fine and blows off/vents off perfectly.

Yeah, mine worked well for a few weeks venting openly. Then, I got a c.e.l. and the car was in limp mode and idled like shit. The code was TPS malfunction. I put in a new TPS and cleared the codes. Then it came back on. I posted the problem here and was told to try recirculating the bov so I did and guess what? Problem solved. No problems since.

 

[meliketoball]

Yeah, mine worked well for a few weeks venting openly. Then, I got a c.e.l. and the car was in limp mode and idled like shit. The code was TPS malfunction. I put in a new TPS and cleared the codes. Then it came back on. I posted the problem here and was told to try recirculating the bov so I did and guess what? Problem solved. No problems since.

My idle is dead on 750 and I've been un-circulated for a bit. I haven't got any CELs. Maybe our cars are different..let's not make this into an argument about re-circulating.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

My idle is dead on 750 and I've been un-circulated for a bit. I haven't got any CELs. Maybe our cars are different..let's not make this into an argument about re-circulating.

There is no argument, because you have it setup wrong, whether you think your car "runs fine"

I don't know if I was the one who replied to silverbullit's issue when he was getting an CEL. I remember mentioning in a thread a while back, because it happened to me when i was a ricer dsm n00b venting my ssqv.

Your fortunate you don't get a CEL, but it doesn't change the fact that you are not running your car properly.

no offense bro, you'll hear it from many of us dsmers, even if we have a meet in the Bay area and someone sees your venting on stock mas, someone is going to mention it.

To stay on topic though, the SSQV can be spun around on the flange, but it shouldn't be able to do it without actually trying. I have experience with real and knock off SSQVs. The c-clip is not "easy" to put on. I noticed the knockoff c-clips are not like the ones that come with the real SSQVs. The knockoffs were always too big.

 

[meliketoball]

There is no argument, because you have it setup wrong, whether you think your car "runs fine"

I don't know if I was the one who replied to silverbullit's issue when he was getting an CEL. I remember mentioning in a thread a while back, because it happened to me when i was a ricer dsm n00b venting my ssqv.

Your fortunate you don't get a CEL, but it doesn't change the fact that you are not running your car properly.

no offense bro, you'll hear it from many of us dsmers, even if we have a meet in the Bay area and someone sees your venting on stock mas, someone is going to mention it.

To stay on topic though, the SSQV can be spun around on the flange, but it shouldn't be able to do it without actually trying. I have experience with real and knock off SSQVs. The c-clip is not "easy" to put on. I noticed the knockoff c-clips are not like the ones that come with the real SSQVs. The knockoffs were always too big.

ok ok but it is my choice and who cares. But anyway, I'll even make a video of me taking off the c-clip/snap ring both in less then 5 mins. And the snap ring I got was with the real SSQV I got.

 

[Jeff822]

Save the going cheap route for something like headlights, tail lights, boost controler, CF hood, etc . . .

I'd say a boost controller is a pretty critical part that you shouldn't cheap out on. MBC fails + Bad spike = BOOM.

 

[rich3389]

As long as its a ball and spring MBC, it doesn't really matter if you get a 10 dollar ebay one or a 80 dollar hallman, or even a home made one.

 

[tsunari]

As long as its a ball and spring MBC, it doesn't really matter if you get a 10 dollar ebay one or a 80 dollar hallman, or even a home made one.

Completely agree- I'm sure the operative word was probably meant to be "inexpensive" . . . not "cheap". I would definitely rely more on a decent MBC over an electronic one. Solenoids in that type of environment just tend not to last forever . . .

 

[97 gst turbooo]

Hallman Pro mbc works excellent. As to the bov. My hks ssqv spins on the flange but not easily you'd have to really put some oomph behind it. It spun freely at first and it acutally blew off while driving becuase the snap ring wasnt sat in all the way. I broke 3 pairs of snap ring pliers putting the snap ring on, so it shouldnt take a few seconds to do. it works awesome now its in right.