The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Knock Knock. Who's there? Knock.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Araesk

Proven Member
188
1
Jul 10, 2013
Muskego, Wisconsin
Well I don't quite know where to begin. All I know is I'm knocking now and hearing the engine do it is killing me. I apologize for the length, just wanted to be as detailed and thorough as I could. I'll start with how it happened.

I just finished taking my TB off, cleaning off all the carbon I could and redrilling and tapping the ISC bolt hole since I managed to snap a bolt in there. I cleaned the whole thing out with my compressor and wiped down everything I could. I threw the TB, took my car for a couple spins to see if my idle surge and stalling out issue was gone. (If I depressed the clutch the idle would die sometimes if not given enough gas, was curious if fixed. Also checking if a boost leak was somehow magically fixed in this process but didn't notice anything too major). I drove over to my friend tuby's house, and along the way the boost randomly started working 100% again. It went from being a boggy kind of dragging feeling, to pushed-back-in-your-seat feeling like the turbo was clogged and that villain was finally defeated. I giggled in joy as I was pushed back in my seat again and was loving my boost.

After letting my car sit for about half an hour at tuby's I decided to head home. On the way, I went to check how my boost was doing, and the car went back to its prior state, where the boost gauge would read 14, but the car didn't pull at all. (Mind you AFR's, water temps were all normal). I came to a stop and the car stalled out like it did before. Turned it back on, rev'd to about 2.5k let off the clutch, and at about 5MPH BAM, something that felt like fuel cut, but I was only going 5MPH with negative vacuum.:confused: The car drove fine still, but I went to test the boost once more thinking nothing of that violent jerking, and that's when a scraping started to happen. It started off scraping, then progressed worse and worse. I turned the car on for short increments to get it rolling, but the scrapping progressed and started to get worse and worse. I got the car back to Tuby's house, and by this point it progressed to a knock. The car is sitting there for the night and I'll get it back home tomorrow to start checking what's causing this horror. (The oil looked perfectly normal on the dipstick and i didn't see any metal shavings, nor any watered-down oil). Also, the compressor wheel looks good and still has no shaft play.

Things I have done to the car that would possibly create debris:

  • I drilled out an old, snapped out turbo bolt, but made sure to stuff a rag down the turbine housing so no shavings would get in there. Maybe a couple did while i pulled it out, but the tiniest flakes and a very minor amount.
  • Next would be like I said before the TB. Possibly a couple shavings managed to remain in the hidden joining of the ISC to behind the butterfly plate in the TB, but again I blasted that thing so much before hand at 100 PSI that if any were left it would be next to nothing.
  • Finally, the one candidate i think might cause it. I over-torqued the valve cover down, so there were minor cracks running around the 2 inner sprakplug tray bolt holes next to the cam gears. I put JB weld on the inside of the valve cover, figuring it would be fine since it is heat resistant and people said they put JB weld on their valve covers before. (Whether that was implying just the outside, I do not know, and my ignorance and stupidity are to blame then.)

If the JB weld fell off the valve cover, and hit the cams and broke apart. I'd imagine that'd create a shit ton of noise and problems. And I saw little bit of oil pooling in my valve cover in the corner of those two bolts so i'm thinking it could be that. Any ideas, suggestions, or constructive criticism will be greatly appreciated. I'm going to put the engine at TDC tomorrow after removing the valve cover to inspect the JB weld, or where it should be, to check the rods for play across all 4 pistons. If both those report back negative. It is time to drop the oil pan and check the crank.

Thank you for taking the time to help me out here; and trust me the more I think about the JB weld on the inside, solely for cosmetic reasons, the more stupid I feel for doing it. Will report back with updates as soon as I can.

Will post videos later as well when they get uploaded and pictures as much as I Can.
 
Last edited:
Just to think I was about to ask you for help to dial in that TPS, this shit happens. Gotta love those DSMs man.
 
I wouldn't start that motor up any more if I was you. Couple things to check to help pinpoint the issue.
1. Take off the timing cover and check timing. I think while you were enjoying your boost you might have had the timing belt slip.
2. Get a compression gauge and see what the numbers are.
3. If the above 2 look good, then drop the pan
 
Application of JB weld is not the same from person to person. Surface preparation, mix ratio and cure time are extremely important. My guess is the JB weld came loose when exposed to enough heat and pressure.
 
I'll check the timing marks when I rotate it to TDC. I redid the belt over winter, but it was running fine so I don't get why it would slip randomly. And especially when I was only at about 2.5k rpm's rolling into first at 5mph's and not at boost. I had compression done on my pistons back on the 21st of march and they were all in the range of 140-150.

As for the JB weld, i wiped the surface off, but didn't really prepare it. Lesson learned. If the JB weld broke off, I'd have to dismantle the whole engine and fish apart all the bits of it right?
 
I'll check the timing marks when I rotate it to TDC. I redid the belt over winter, but it was running fine so I don't get why it would slip randomly. And especially when I was only at about 2.5k rpm's rolling into first at 5mph's and not at boost. I had compression done on my pistons back on the 21st of march and they were all in the range of 140-150.

As for the JB weld, i wiped the surface off, but didn't really prepare it. Lesson learned. If the JB weld broke off, I'd have to dismantle the whole engine and fish apart all the bits of it right?

If it's knocking like the video still... You will be pulling more than some jb weld bits out. :ohdamn:
 
I don't want to risk turning it over to find out honestly. Rather just dissect and pray it's a bearing... Guess these engines can't even hold 10psi huh? What rice buckets.
 
I don't want to risk turning it over to find out honestly. Rather just dissect and pray it's a bearing... Guess these engines can't even hold 10psi huh? What rice buckets.

Haha don't hate the car! You are the one who put JB weld on the inside of the valve cover!
 
Quick update, will toss up pictures ater. Things I've noticed so far. Pulled the valve cover and Jb weld was still in place and none broke off. Next the turbo has more shaft play in it before, enough to hit the sides of the turbine housing, but that's only up and down play. There was oil twisted around the inside of the turbo intake. And I even found a little bit of water and oil in my upper intercooling piping, but absolutely nothing in the lower. I drained the oil and no metal flakes fell out. Currently in the process of dropping the oil pan. Will take more pics after this and report back.

Update: Probing all 4 pistons through the head and there is no give at all. I've got to extract the last screw in the oil pan because it stripped, then I'll be able to check the condition of the crank, it's bearings, etc.
 
Last edited:
Finally had time to finish off that last bolt and got around to taking some pictures of the finds. From what I see right now there are no gouges in the crank or rods, so I will be checking for play tomorrow. As for my finds for the night though, just some metal shavings getting stored up in the oil pan. I do not know if this is a considerable amount or what so that is why I am asking for your opinion!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Finally in this last pic, there are two scratches right underneath where rod 1 would be. I'd imagine that there shouldn't be any scratches at that these are not a good sign.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
The last picture I'm for sure 100% it's scratches. I'm planning on taking the caps off tomorrow so I'll be able to see the bearings and get to the heart of this issue.

2gSpyder I don't think tubs or I will be able to make highway this weekend either for the most part unless something changes, sadly.
 
Well as fate would have it, the one thing I am conservative on to avoid ends up breaking and I'd have to fix it somehow. Rod bearing on rod 3 is fried. Here is the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltzaNY0fn_s&feature=youtu.be

In the video you can see at this time that the counterweight (?) is scored flat and not to a point unlike the one right next to it. Here is another picture of a little more damage to the crank.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Coilover Springs
    Used pair of Eibach coilover springs from an old set of Ground Control coilovers. 2.5" inner...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top