JW's GSX - Green Manalishi

[jw4free]

jw4free submitted a new DSM Profile :

JW's GSX


Read more about this vehicle here...

 

[jw4free]

Been a couple of minutes. Updating the under body chassis. Adding Volk metalcraft suspension parts. Still 59k miles. But the fuel from ‘08 has been removed from the fuel tank and disposed of. Refreshing the chassis, fixing some jack rash on the ‘subframe’ and black oxide hardware, powder coating, and cleaning. Pictures to follow.

Thanks to all who keep the platform from becoming obsolete.

 

[jw4free]

Front upper control arms. Under coating on the road side. No discernable marks noting production information.
Mine first pic
Justin DuBois next pic

Good info link:

2G - Front Upper Control Arms/Camber

Background on what I am trying here. Wanting to drop car 1.5” all the way around and after using the ingalls camber kit I am not happy with it. I am moving on to trying the SPC adjustable ball joints. I am not too thrilled about going with the Megan Racing arms since I want it to still have a...

www.dsmtuners.com

 

[jw4free]

Not an illusion. The right side arm is not straight. But I’ve got a set of volk metalcraft front lower arms on the shelf.

Both arms have a white stencil 1210NA. Left has a cast in 4. Right has a cast in 2.

 

[jw4free]

Left and right frame rails. Is that ‘wrinkle’ on the right side supposed to be there? Obviously the right side is missing some sheet metal. Does anyone have a picture or link to correct looking front frame section?

 

[jesse12345]

That crumpled spot is definitely not supposed to be there. What pictures did you need? Here's a couple I have of a straight front clip. Rusty but the front end was straight.

 

[jw4free]

Thanks for the photos. That clears it up. The exterior panels appeared to be straight, but the left fender is aftermarket. I’ll try and slide hammer and massage the frame rail out, but not too concerned. Now on the right side, I’ll weld in a section of sheet metal to replace the section that was modified for ‘cold air intake’.

 

[jw4free]

Couldn’t find the forward engine pick mount in storage. (It’s red, I’ve seen it many times since I took it off because ‘it was excess weight ?’ It’s in one of the boxes or spare parts stashes, though I resorted the garage boxes in vane). So, I made one out of a section of a front leaf spring mount that I removed from my 1979 Ramcharger because I installed a Jungle’s winch bumper. (Good upgrade for sure).
See pics of raw material and final assembly ready for the engine hoist.

The rear pick point I could find. But I added a thick washer to hopefully keep the attachment point to the hoist balance / leveler from getting bent up after I flattened it out from previous use.

 

[jw4free]

Subframe pulled without issue. Very smooth actually.

Just a bit of brake fluid corrosion and a snapped off bolt for rear roll stop mount. The brake fluid leak, for sure me. The snapped bolt, not me.

Are those factory marks on the underside of the front subframe member?

 

[jw4free]

Removing the front subframe rubber bushings. (An 120vAC electric drill does a better job than a 20vDC cordless. You don’t have to wait for the batteries to charge.)

Four of these are a lot easier than the rear bushings, as there isn’t a metal outside collar. Haven’t taken out the last two. But I’m thinking the press and the right sized pipe section should do the trick.

 

[jw4free]

Front upper ball joint. Needs a good cleaning and grease repack, but feels somewhat firm.

Do you guys recommend upgrading to the +/- 1 deg ball joints?

 

[jw4free]

Firewall to be refreshed.

Couple of things to address: weld up unnecessary random screw holes , abandoned wire chases, and unneeded heater core penetrations (because ragged edge superformance cars don’t have HVAC).

The sharp eye may see a second wiring rubber bulkhead fitting blockout where the AC once was. Engine harness separate from chassis harness, chassis wiring running to center console fuse panel (though driver kick panel fuse block is still utilized via under dash wiring, as necessary). It’s just the way it should have been. Not ran through the drivers side fender area.

 

[jw4free]

Engine bay: clean canvas. Well almost. This might be the sum total of rust on this chassis.

Wire brush should clean it right up. Brake fluid leak neglect.

 

[jw4free]

Cleaned up the front fender wells and a bit of the firewall. Ready for some rattle can primer on a warmer day. (It snowed overnight)

 

[jw4free]

Working on a couple firewall templates. Don’t need heater holes. Adding a stiffener plate for the brake and clutch pedals.

 

[jw4free]

Sunny weather so put some primer and paint on suspension parts.

 

[jw4free]

Bought a bench grinder (finally). Can’t believe I “didn’t need” one of these for all these years.

Cleaning up some fasteners for the black oxide treatment. Then I’m going to sharpen up the box of iffy drill bits.

 

[jw4free]

Bought a couple lengths of piping. Cut 5” sections. Setup the 20 ton press and used a 13/16 socket to press out the front subframe bushings. It worked so slick. Pinched the 2.5” aluminum pipe to fit inside the lower control arm mount location. 1-1/2” sch40 pipe to support the underside of the subframe. Used a level to ensure I was pressing pretty straight.

I’m going to powder coat the front and rear subframes.
Question: should I press the aluminum bushings before or after powder coating? I’m leaning towards before so I don’t scratch up the final coating. I will adjust the I’d of the bushings for a nice friction fit, and lube up the bushing with high pressure grease which should act as a dielectric and prevent dissimilar metal corrosion.

 

[jw4free]

Front subframe with Volk metalcraft aluminum bushings.

Used the flap wheel, calipers and a ‘handle’ to bring the id of the bushings into a manageable + tolerance. Still pressed in, but not too tough.

Rear is next.

 

[jw4free]

Eclipse is going to get some Cadillac CTS-V calipers and Mustang Cobra rotors.

 

[jw4free]

Just more painting and bolt cleaning.

 

[jw4free]

Under body work today.

There was a sticky oily black layer in some parts. I could scrape with a plastic drywall scraper, if it was oil soaked enough. Used foaming engine degreaser. This stuff takes the green paint off but leaves the primer layer.

Used a wire wheel to remove the whitish undercoating. (Because race cars don’t have sound deadening and don’t drive in foul weather).

The white suit, gloves and face shield were a must.

I’m maybe half done after 6hrs on the floor creeper. Very little rust, just along the edge of a couple sheet metal seams.

But I do have some hours ahead to pullout the ‘subframe rails’.

 

[jw4free]

Rear subframe update This all took place over many days in the garage. (Started in November, albeit lazy over winter and got serious again in mid-March):

Compared my ‘96 subframe to my ‘95
‘95: 593 BFHN (non-abs)
‘96: #725 BFH ABS (abs equipped)
Cool right?

Rear Differential bushings out, (they are fluid filled) new torque solutions aluminum bushings in.

Rear subframe bushings out - including steel sleeves. Liberal use of air hammer applied. (Note: Torque solutions poly bushings are sized for the sleeve to remain. Big deal here)

Special thanks to gofer!! Provided me with (currently not available) Volk metalcraft aluminum bushings. To be sized and pressed in shortly.

Boston Performance designs aluminum rear differential front snout supports (kit includes two mounts and a steel tab to be welded on) purchased many (many) years ago. Thanks Boston Hatcher

12mm x 1.25 tap for differential snout threads.
14mm x 70mm bolt plus washer and nut for 4th differential attachment point.

Next up powder coating.

 

[jw4free]

Cleaned up brake and fuel lines.

 

[jw4free]

So we get to the original point of the under chassis refresh. Which now also includes the engine and front subframe removal.

I wanted to upsize the fuel line to 3/8 SS tubing. FYI, near as I can tell you need to drop the subframe, so I did the work. Went quick, and as a side note, I can rehab the engine bay.

Needed to rework or purchase different brake and fuel line clips. I found the Genuine Mopar Fuel Bundle Clip 68259584AA. They are the clips for a Challenger Hellcat, because that’s a good roll model for performance. Received the parts and took some measurements. This thing is massive. Sized for 1/2” fuel, 3/8” return, and dual 3/16” brakes. The smaller version has a smaller fuel supply but priced 10x more. Did a little mockup. The big boys will work.

So, I only want to drop the subframe once, I’m going to buy 1/2” SS fuel line. Use the 3/8 for return; I’ll have capacity to be a drivetrain snapping machine, hopefully not.

Previously, I had abandoned the engine bay charcoal vent canister but left the vent line in the engine bay with a rubber vent line routed to the side of the vehicle. As the Mopar clip only has 4 spots, I’m going to route the vent to a charcoal canister near the fuel filler neck.

Anyone have any experience sourcing a compact deep breather charcoal canister?