Just orderd my fuellab FPR kit

[98gsxtuner]

I just order my Fuellab FPR kit,I was running rich at WOT and the car felt as if it was loosing power,now after i install what kind of change will i notice and what should i set it at.... I'm runnin 20psi on a 16g evo3 turbo andi have a 255 lph walbro pump and 550cc injectors.

 

[2GturboTALON]

Base fuel pressure is 43.5 for a 2g. Set it at 43 psi with the vaccum line removed and you should be good to go. I really don't think the FPR will Lean things out all that much ( thats what your safc is for) but will make sure you have consistent 1:1 FP. Install the FPR do some logging and adjust safc as needed

 

[98gsxtuner]

Are there any threads on here that explain on how to install/set the pressure on it?

 

[PIMking]

I have the same kit, I haven't hooked it up yet. I am trying to figure out how to mount the regulator first.

 

[98gsxtuner]

Does anybody know how to set the pressure on it ive never installed one before

 

[tunethis]

Does anybody know how to set the pressure on it ive never installed one before

"Disconnect the vacuum hose to the FPR, and plug it with a golf tee, bolt, or your finger), the 1G Turbo FPRs are rated at 36.3psi at zero psi, the 2G Turbo FPRs are rated at 43.6psi at zero psi. What this means is that at idle (assuming a healthy engine with stock cams, which should have roughly 18-20" of vacuum), 1G/2G NT fuel pressure should be around 39psi, the 1G turbos should be around 27psi, and 2G turbos should be around 35pi (because 2" vacuum equals roughly 1psi). On a 1G turbo, you should have roughly 41psi at 5psi boost, and 51psi at 15psi boost."

The above information is from, Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page
Look in the Fuel section and click on sx fpr install.

 

[Burnett03]

Does anybody know how to set the pressure on it ive never installed one before

You must have a gauge and remove the vacuum line from the regulator.

 

[95GSXCO]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/228159-how-build-your-own-afpr-kit.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/186032-installing-aeromotive-fuel-pressure-regulator.html

Took me 10 seconds to find both of these in the tech section. Is the world really becoming this lazy? Not to mention it will come with instructions.

And just to save you some time when you do get it and to keep from starting a new thread I have already done the search for you on where people have installed them.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/159461-looking-pics-your-afpr-install.html

 

[98gsxtuner]

I searched the fourums on how to set and how to install and didnt find anything that would help me it was just people asking about what kind to get. So before you start calling people lazy ask if they have searched. P.S I always search before i start a fourum and thanks for the help.

 

[95GSXCO]

98gsxtuner Sorry about my other post I just got off a 12hr work day and a little tired. The biggest reason we dont ask if people have searched is because the answer is always the same.

 

[98gsxtuner]

It's kewl bro i understand i used to work a 12hr day aswell and i would get perty cranky. Thanks for the help man. Now go take a NAP!!!!! haah

 

[kenamond]

I just got done installing the Fuelab AFPR from the STM kit. -6AN SS braided lines, Shadow Series fittings.

I have to d/l the photos from my camera. I spent half the day scratching my head about how to mount the FPR and route the fuel lines. I looked at one of the 10-page threads about "post your afpr install pics" or something. The kit line isn't long enough to reach an FPR mounted to the clear spot on the firewall toward the passenger side. You have to relocate or delete the FPR solenoid if you want to mount it next to the brake fluid reservoir and on the firewall. If you mount it next to the brake fluid reservoir in front of the FPR solenoid, there's a tight fit for the return line off the bottom nipple (between the two brake reservoir rubber lines). So I fabbed up an aluminum bracket so that I could mount the FPR in front of the reservoir (between it and the motor) and at an angle so that the gauge faces toward the passenger side a bit. That worked out. I bought a sheet of 6"x12"x0.064" aluminum sheet from the hardware store, fabbed up a cardboard mock, traced that onto the aluminum, and cut out the bracket with a reinforced Dremel cutoff bit, bent it, drilled holes, done.

I ran the line out the 90* rail fitting, down under the brake master cylinder (from passenger side to driver side), then looped it up over the master cylinder and into the right side of the AFPR (put the plug in the left side).

Don't forget to oil the o-rings on the plug, inlet, and outlet AN fittings before you install them into the AFPR and use teflon tape on the pipe threads of the gauge and vaccuum line fitting.

The stock return line won't fit the FPR outlet nipple without some serious forcing. I didn't want to try disconnecting the stock rubber line from the hard line (about a foot below the brake reservoir), so I muscled the stock line onto the nipple far enough to get a hose clamp on it.

If you've never put fittings on braided line, I highly recommend getting the -6AN fitting tool "Koul Tools, Size 6" (got mine from Jegs for $40 with S&H). It makes it a lot easier to get the braid into the fitting...you just snap the fitting into the tool and force/twist the line into it until it bottoms out in the fitting. Then you screw the other half into it. Oil up everything before hand so that the inner/male half of the fitting slides into the hose easily. Sometimes, the hose gets caught on the male fitting tip, and it pushes the line out of the female half, but you just try over again or clean up the end of the hole in the rubber. Then you torque the two together all the way.

You'll have to cut the corner of your cam cover off to clear the 90* fitting coming off the fuel rail. And the elbow fitting has to point straight back. It won't clear middle timing cover if you aim it down. And you'll *barely* have enough room to get the elbow fitting threaded onto the rail adapter fitting (with the cam cover off).

Pull the plug on the coil pack, reattach the battery, put the gas cap back on (if you had it off for depressurizing the fuel system), and turn the engine over for 10 sec. Check for leaks at all the fittings. If no leaks, reconnect the coil pack.

The instructions say to tighten the adjustment screw until it starts to resist. Pull the vaccuum line off the FPR and plug the end with a nail or something (vaccuum leak if you leave the end open). Start the car. Mine stalled after a few seconds, so I tightened the screw a couple of turns and tried again. It started and idled. Then I looked at the gauge (don't get your fingers in the t-belt if that cover's still off) and dialed the adjustment screw until I got 43.5psi). Set the lock nut on the adjustment screw and reattach the vaccuum line.

Put the timing cover on to see what has to be cut away. Dremel it away. Reinstall the timing cover. Drive.

I'll post the pics soon.

EDIT: Pics uploaded.

 

[98gsxtuner]

Very Very helpful and detailed post thanks alot man.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

Nice review kenamond, that should post should be in the reviews section, complete with pics and everything

Ive been eyeing one of those kits. Several vendors have it. The little differences between them IS the mounting bracket. I really would like to get a kit that mounts by the firewall like all the usual ones and not have to fabricate something like that. The lack of hose they gave you seems like you had no choice but to mount it how you did.

Your review will really alter my decision on which vendor's kit I will be going with. Overal though the FPR itself and the rest of the kit look awesome. Looking to get just standard pushlock.

 

[jjgrizz73]

I used the bracket/hose supplied in the kit on the firewall. Not sure how great of picture this is or how much help because the strut bar is in the way...I just utilized two of the threaded oem holes on the firewall with 10mm bolts...

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[RedTurboEclipse]

^^^^ which vendor was that kit from?

 

[jjgrizz73]

It was from ExtremePSI I believe it was 209$

 

[havoc742]

I got mine from MAPerformance.com. Mounted on a 1G on the throttle cable box with a 90* elbow for the pressure gauge. Bought about $600 worth of parts at the same time so I paid less than $200 for mine (with the install kit and gauge). Extremely happy with it. I recommend getting a good dremel and a vice so you can properly cut off the excess hose.

 

[kenamond]

Nice review kenamond, that should post should be in the reviews section, complete with pics and everything

Ive been eyeing one of those kits. Several vendors have it. The little differences between them IS the mounting bracket. I really would like to get a kit that mounts by the firewall like all the usual ones and not have to fabricate something like that. The lack of hose they gave you seems like you had no choice but to mount it how you did.

Your review will really alter my decision on which vendor's kit I will be going with. Overal though the FPR itself and the rest of the kit look awesome. Looking to get just standard pushlock.

The short line wasn't a problem for me, because I had 3' of braided line laying around. The problem is that if you move the AFPR over to the next available spot on a stock firewall, you need to re-route the fuel return line (off the bottom of the AFPR). The stock hard line ends under the brake fluid reservoir, so you either have to run a whole new return line back to the tank, somehow modify the hard line (cut and flare it under the new AFPR location) or run a long return line from the AFPR over to the stock hard line end. I'm not sure how easy it'd be to get to where the hard/rubber return lines meet, and I didn't like the idea of having my AFPR so far away from the rail. So I did it this way.

I used the bracket/hose supplied in the kit on the firewall. Not sure how great of picture this is or how much help because the strut bar is in the way...I just utilized two of the threaded oem holes on the firewall with 10mm bolts...

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But most other folks don't have such a naked engine bay. There's all sorts of stuff in the way unless you delete/relocate your emissions control parts and other stuff.

^^^^ which vendor was that kit from?

I got mine from Street Tuned Motorsports or whatever. They also had the Fuelab tank-to-rail (with filter) Shadow Series kit, so I got both kits from them at once.

The kit comes with a bracket for the AFPR, but unless you can find a flat spot to bolt it to, it's not going to help you. I used mine to transfer the bolt pattern to my custom bracket.

If I had it to do over again, the only thing I'd consider changing is replacing the return line between the AFPR and stock hard line with a 6AN rubber hose and hose clamp instead of muscling the stock rubber line onto the AFPR nipple. I just didn't want to struggle with getting the old line off the end of the hard line.