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Just Installed WB, Ridiculous Knock & DTC

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DeadlyScone

10+ Year Contributor
587
1
Jul 29, 2011
Portland, Oregon
I just installed my AEM WB and got everything back together and started it up and the engine light came on, i looked at it and it gave me 0031(knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction) Also my car knocks randomly(phantom) and is really bad to the point i can't get up hills easily. i havn't messed with anything and enabled Narrow band simulation and that was all.

I got some logs you can look at, maybe it will help.
 

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Maybe its just me since I'm not a Link expert but why is your WB stuck at 9:1 AFR and your front O2 not cycling? Why are you running in open loop?
 
Your WB isn't working properly. You are stuck at a 9.1 AFR on both idle and cruise logs. Didn't you notice that? Double check your wiring mainly that you wired it into the proper ECU input. Re post an idle log when you have that fixed.
 
Your WB isn't working properly. You are stuck at a 9.1 AFR on both idle and cruise logs. Didn't you notice that? Double check your wiring mainly that you wired it into the proper ECU input. Re post an idle log when you have that fixed.

I did notice that. I cut the white wire for the 4th pin, left the wire coming in taped off and hooked the white wire to the white wire going into the big clip. This is correct right?
 
Did you verify the connector wire you tapped into? When people clip the wires according to ECMLinks diagram they are forgetting that the wires are labeled as if you are looking into the connector, not the wire side.

As for the wideband wires, I have no clue, I don't use AEM.
 
Did you verify the connector wire you tapped into? When people clip the wires according to ECMLinks diagram they are forgetting that the wires are labeled as if you are looking into the connector, not the wire side.

As for the wideband wires, I have no clue, I don't use AEM.

Like if you pulled the connector out, turn it around so the part that goes into the ecu is facing you(the holes on the connectors face you) the white wire on the aem is the 0-5v wire.
 
Like if you pulled the connector out, turn it around so the part that goes into the ecu is facing you(the holes on the connectors face you) the white wire on the aem is the 0-5v wire.

That is correct orientation and the 0-5v wire is the one you would splice with. Just verify that the wire is the correct one on the proper plug. The reading that Link is showing is that it's not getting a signal from the WB.
 
That is correct orientation and the 0-5v wire is the one you would splice with. Just verify that the wire is the correct one on the proper plug. The reading that Link is showing is that it's not getting a signal from the WB.

Then it got hooked up correctly. This still doesn't solve the dtc issue. Do you have any ideas?
 
Did you calibrate your wb? I have a spare knock sensor if you wanna see if that's the problem. I can't pull up your logs from my phone but I get back the 18th so ill check it out.
 
You didn't say "The 4th pin from the left side" so I'm voting you cut the wrong white wire. Go make sure there's a BR (Black/Red) and YB (Yellow/Black) wire on either side of your input.

If you cut the knock sensor wire, then there should be GO (Green/Orange) and GL (Green/Blue) wires on either side.

That would be the only logical explanation as to why you're throwing a knock sensor DTC. Another member on this site did the exact same thing a week or so ago and had the same results.
 
You didn't say "The 4th pin from the left side" so I'm voting you cut the wrong white wire. Go make sure there's a BR (Black/Red) and YB (Yellow/Black) wire on either side of your input.

If you cut the knock sensor wire, then there should be GO (Green/Orange) and GL (Green/Blue) wires on either side.

That would be the only logical explanation as to why you're throwing a knock sensor DTC. Another member on this site did the exact same thing a week or so ago and had the same results.

Ill check after work. Thanks for your input.
 
I just spent about 3 hours soldering and installing my lc-1 wb last night. Gauge shows the numbers and works great..my problem is almost the same. I soldered two wires to the brown wire, 1 to the gauge and one to the ecu. The ecu threw the 31 code and an 11 code. I also noticed that in the yellow plug, pin 2 I think, there is no wire. Is this correct? I think I might have cut the wrong one. I did however log a couple counts of knock.
So, what do you guys think?
 
Yes I have that diagram. The pin 2 location for the diagnostic/data transfer select wire, which shows it as white, is not there. Also, logging my ride into work this morning, the fuel trims all stayed at 100%, and no cycling of the o2.....I will have to look tonight like the OP.
Is it ok to run the gauge and the ecu off of the brown wire?..hmm?
I did throw the 31 code....o2 heater error, and 11 code...knock sensor. I will update tonight.
 
Yes, you can run both items off the same wire.

However, since you input a wideband output to your front o2 sensor wire, you now have no front o2 input. Seeing as you're not running link, you have no way to simulate a narrowband signal.

You need to input the yellow wire from the LC-1 to your front o2 wire if you want to install the wideband in the front o2 spot and not a new bung.
 
I did put it in the hole where the original was. So, the ecu won't read the 0-5 v output of the brown wire in the #4 pin? The yellow wire can be switched to the 5v by the software. But that would put me right back to where I'm at now. I have read the archived post on here and followed the directions given. I must have soldered it to the wrong wire is all I can come up with.
What about the wire missing in the pin 2 location? Is that normal?
 
If you want it running correctly since you replaced the front o2 sensor, you need to run the yellow wire to pin 4 and the brown wire to the gauge. You will not be able to log the sensor this way though, so if you want to do that, you'll have to split the brown wire and take up another ECU input.

I'm assuming by "archived post" you meant this tech article I wrote. If so, it spells it out very clear for you.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...21002-innovate-lc-1-installation-options.html


I don't know about the missing wire though. I'm not very knowledgeable about 1g's.
 
I did indeed use the wrong input at the ecu. I cut the knock sensor. I write this from my passenger seat and fixing it now. Thanks a bunch. This is an easy mistake to make. perhaps you could update your post to show the wires on both sides of the correct wire to use. I didn't feel confused when I read it, just went for pin 4 from the schematic and cut away.....I just soldered the ks back and getting ready to solder the yellow wire to pin 4. The real pin 4.
 
One more update.
I soldered the brown wire to the CORRECT white wire, the yellow wire to pin 15, which is blue with a yellow stripe, and no software adjustment to the yellow wire, and it all works perfect! I even have that nice catalytic odor and water from the tail pipe. My fuel trims are right in line now.
Now I have to get rid of that damned old code 44. It is so intermittent, not funny at all. I have replaced all the ignition system except for the wiring harness and the cam angle sensor.
MEGA KUDOS to 714snowboarder.
BTW, I think I have bought stuff from you. Thanks buddy!!!!!!!!!
 
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