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just dont get it.

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Couldnt send the ecu out and drive it to work only have one ecu that ran the problem motor. I know i could of fixed timing belt,oil leak,and broken stud. Basically i had enough with that motor just got frustrated and sick of tryin to figure it out.
 
It started right up sounded good noticed a oil leak in turbo line so i shut it off. Fixed the oil leak. Tried to start it and now it wont start.. i am lost.. tomorrow i start tring to figure out what happend
 
Man it really does sound like an ECU issue. Probably not what you want to hear but 1st gen ECUs are known to mess up overtime. Also make sure the ECU is actually bolted down and not just lying there.
 
Ok so here is the today story of this car went out hit the key and it started.. ran for about a minute or so and then shut off all on its own. When i first started the car the boost gage went to close to 0 when i turned the key on before starting starting it. When it will not start the boost gage doesnt move at all stay at bottom of gage or -7.. what is that all about?
 
It sure sounds ECU related since it drives the boost gauge circuit that makes it operate. A capacitor is a barrel looking device with 2 leads on a circuit board, usually black, sometimes blue in color. When they leak, they have a funky residue that used to be oil basically inside the component and when it leaks it causes circuit problems if it interrupts the "flow" of the circuitry to answer your "caps" question plus when it leaks it doesn't function or doesn't function correctly. You would have to take the ECU cover off to see them of course.
 
So started checking stuff. Checked for spark its got good spark. Pulled fuel rail to watch them work to make sure and they arent working at all. What would make them work for a minute and just stop and must also control boost gage because when it shuts off and wont start the boost gage also stops working
 
What will it just laying there cause?

ECU must be grounded at least one bolt. At least this is the case with the 2g. My good friend had a 2g that was sputtering and doing all kinds of weird things and we were stumped as to what the issue could be until I noticed his ECU was not bolted down. Bolted it down and issues were resolved, easy as that.
 
Yes
The ones for the fuel pressure solenoid?
The 2 on the fuel pressure solenoid to the solenoid right next to it. There are 4 vac hoses right there. Swapped them around. It fixed the engine stoping and not starting again for a while. I have the car idleing great now. It is still gutless however and builds no or very little boost while driving. Right now this car couldnt get out of its own way but its running. Now i guess ill have to get a code reader because it does throw a check engine light and i am going to start replacing all major sensors that could affect the power of the motor. It runs and idles great until you hit the throttle
 
Since your running low on cash try a junkyard, The mitsu dealer is gonna want an outrageous $300+ price tag for an oem or search the classifieds on here, I went with a GM maf when I bought a dsm with a bad maf but requires you buy a MAFT (mass air flow translator) which converts the GM signal to a signal dsm ecu's can recognize.
 
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