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just dont get it.

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Is it cheaper to go that rout? Im not junkyarding that. I found a reman for 250 brand new for 600 just sucks. What is the best way to go if i wanna up boost levels and stuff down the road?
 
I just went to move the car out to wash it. Maf still unpluged dont like to run if you try to move it way worse than with maf hooked up. Free rev is way better with it unhooked.. this is how it should act with a bad maf?? Just double checkin.. sorry
 
Yes, you really have to work hard to drive it with no maf, which is not recommended. Did you check out those links? Maybe post a craigslist ad to find one local. There is not a large demand for them so they can be had for cheap.
 
Why are you guys stating a problem here? You don't know its a bad maf, youre assuming. Op needs to check his codes and gather a little bit more data. Buying parts based of an asumption is a real slow and expensive way to fix a car.
 
I will try to get a code reader to check codes. I t does throw a cel so it should read something on a scanner... i had planned on running a scan tool before purchasing part that cost that much
 
Why are you guys stating a problem here? You don't know its a bad maf, youre assuming. Op needs to check his codes and gather a little bit more data. Buying parts based off an asumption is a real slow and expensive way to fix a car.
Why not state a problem when it's an exact scenario I have had and the first thing I told him to do is the first thing I did with the same results. The next thing I did was buy a new maf, the problem was resolved. Considering the 1g mafs are a dime a dozen and he needs his car asap I figured I would help out considering my similar experience.

Go ahead and tell/explain the process of how to check codes on a 1g without a data logger. :thumb:
 
All you need to check codes on a 1g is an analog voltmeter or a noid light.
Again you are assuming your problem is the same as his. If opcan get a 10 $ maf and it doesnt work is that money well spent? Sll im suggesting is that you state what is likely because..........
Is it likely based on your experience? In my opinion no. Ive seen too many things go wrong in 25 years. A datalogger would be very helpful here.
Op....codes?
 
Why not state a problem when it's an exact scenario I have had and the first thing I told him to do is the first thing I did with the same results. The next thing I did was buy a new maf, the problem was resolved. Considering the 1g mafs are a dime a dozen and he needs his car asap I figured I would help out considering my similar experience.

Go ahead and tell/explain the process of how to check codes on a 1g without a data logger. :thumb:
If you cant easly read the codes on these cars with a diagnostics tool. Then i cant do it anyway. I have kinda came to the conclusion im prolly gonna buy one sensor at a time till the problem is fixed. I appreciate any and all comments to ones own experience.. im gonna start with the cheapest sensors first...
 
Alls i was wondering as far as "codes" is why my cel is coming on. Wondered if it would tell me what was malfunctioning. I can get or use a diagnostic tool like a dealership would have. Pretty sure it shows all your sensors output or what not while its running.. will that work to help me diagnose things or no?
 
Ok let me re-word my advice based on being (politically?) correct,
Based on what your car is doing with the throttle/response and given a similar (exactly similar) situation I had with a previous dsm, I would state that others and I have noticed that many times if the maf is unplugged and the situation/problem seems to get better then you "might" find that the maf "could b"e faulty. This is certainly not a guaranteed answer to your solution but based on past experience it worked for me.
Unplugging the maf is a dummy test to see if it is the "possible" culprit.

But here is a link to read a 1g fault code
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/electrical/code.html

Bad maf link
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-bad-maf-so-confused.441839/
 
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?? What do you set it to for test? Not real familiar with these
 

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I will read the codes in the morning and see what it tells me. I read the artical on vfaqs about my "symptoms" i am having and they say plugs,wires,coils,or the power transistor i believe it said.. so ill try to read the codes and guess go from there
 
I agree with paul, Ive been with a dsm for 12years. One of my cars will barely run without the maf unhooked.. my other car is drivable with the maf unhooked. Every car can act different. Ive experienced the OP problems when having ecu problems, caps went bad on one ecu and a ground burnt on another both causing slightly different problems (not saying this is your problem). I ran codes with a cheap harbor freight meter for years it was digital but had a pulse bar on the display.

Ive also had problems with the car having trouble restarting when I had problems with the engine temp sensor and the corroded stock connector. Plus this temp sensor effects a/f mixture.

Pocket logger would be nice if you can find a compatible palm, the software can be downloaded for free. http://mmcdlogger.sourceforge.net/ for some info and palm capability.
 
All you need to check codes on a 1g is an analog voltmeter or a noid light.
Again you are assuming your problem is the same as his. If opcan get a 10 $ maf and it doesnt work is that money well spent? Sll im suggesting is that you state what is likely because..........
Is it likely based on your experience? In my opinion no. Ive seen too many things go wrong in 25 years. A datalogger would be very helpful here.
Op....codes?
When checking these codes car is runing correct?
 
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