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Jay Racing Active Rear Toe Eliminator Kit For 1G AWD

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RipperXX

20+ Year Contributor
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Feb 23, 2003
Royston, Georgia
Jay Racing Active Rear Toe Eliminator Kit For 1G AWD DSM [ATE1] - $195.00 : Jay Racing As seen here for $195, Do I think it's worth it? Well, I will let you know some time in early March, I will update this thread with my before and after thoughts.

My goal has been to make my car much less of a plowing pig and more neutral with the ability to induce a little bit of over steer on demand. Here are some pics of what the mail man brought me. The bushings if you would call them that go into the rear control arms have to be welded into place. Everything seems to be top notch though and I am told these should take more than anything I will personally ever have to throw at them so thats good news but if you were to have to ever replace the joints I am told there. A 7/8 thread, 3/4" bore kevlar/teflon rod end, QA1 #XMR12-14. I obtained that info from the tech support guy at Jay racing. I am hoping these help the car out more mid corner, maybe even allow me to easily and more controllably induce a little oversteer.

The rest of my suspention consists of KYB AGX shocks, Eibach prokit springs, RM rear sway bar, strut tower braces and now soon these.
 

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The eibach sportlines are to soft of a spring I feel. They are nice looking but for someone that's serious about autoX or other constant spirited driving, the rates are just to soft. Also the more weight you can take off the nose of the car the better. The AWD's are especially over steer happy!
 
So with this kit you don't need to use the stock eccentric bolts?
The stock eccentric bolts are still used for toe adjustment, this kit just eliminates the squishy trail arm bushings, eliminating "active toe change".
 
Pics?? Where it goes would help? I have these too, but haven't installed them yet. Ha.

James :dsm::talon::laser:
 
Look around, there's a number of threads on this modification here already. They are definitely worth the price (especially now...they used to cost $300+ when DSS made them). Your car will be more neutral and MUCH more predictable. Toe is adjusted and locked down with these parts. If you combine this kit with good coilovers, poly bushings, and tie rod angle correction, you will be very happy with how your car handles. :)

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm...ellerized-1g-autocross-practice-car-view.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm-video-links/323082-muellerized-1g-2g-scca-auto-x-practice.html
 
Your car handles very well, but anyway to keep the car a little bit more flat? jsut by tightening up the coilovers, or anything else?

James :dsm::talon::laser:
 
Your car handles very well, but anyway to keep the car a little bit more flat? jsut by tightening up the coilovers, or anything else?
LOL It's pretty damn flat as it is! Most people see the vid and point out how little body roll there is. But, yes, if you want less body roll there are ways to do this. I'm running the springs that came with the JIC FLT-A2's which are 8k/7k (450lbs/393lbs) front/rear. JIC has several spring rates available. You can put stiffer springs in, but your ride comfort will be compromised. My 1g is my daily driver, so I stuck w/ the 8k/7k springs. You can also get really big swaybars put in. I have the Suspension Techniques rear sway bar and the oem front sway bar. There are bigger ones out there if you want to run them.
 
Oh ok. Yea, i am running this car as a road racer, so the flatter, the better. I am running the Megan Racing coilovers, and the 15/16 RMRacing sway bars. I also have some other things cooking up to keep the body torque to a minimum. Plus a cage will help too.

James :dsm::talon::laser:
 
Nice. Run heavy springs, replace all mushy suspension bushings w/ poly, and you can even look into modifying/replacing the sub-frame to body bushings. Have fun!
 
Nice. Run heavy springs, replace all mushy suspension bushings w/ poly, and you can even look into modifying/replacing the sub-frame to body bushings. Have fun!

10 steps ahead of ya brother! ;) Have all that it the works and its in the path of upgrades before the car even gets off the jacks. Thanks a lot.

James :dsm::talon::laser:
 
The stock eccentric bolts are still used for toe adjustment, this kit just eliminates the squishy trail arm bushings, eliminating "active toe change".

A short time after posting this I realized that the bolts were needed,duh,how would you adjust anything?:ohdamn:

turboAWDfanatic would these toe eliminators be overkill for a street-only car? Might be something I would purchase this summer.
 
turboAWDfanaticdo would these toe eliminators be overkill for a street-only car? Might be something I would purchase this summer.
Overkill? No. They don't make your car ride harsh or anything like springs/shocks/coilovers do. You just need to be aware of the fact that your car will handle different (albeit more consistently) than your car used to handle. It will be less prone to understeer and possibly more prone to be tail happy depending on the rest of your suspension setup. It will handle more predictably, but it won't be as "safe" as the stock setup which understeers like a pig when things get hairy.
 
^ Thats exactly why I got them, I have been trying to setup my suspension so that the cars rear would be a little lose on corner entry and be able to induce oversteer with the throttle at will. It's pretty neutral with what I have right now, so I am hoping these get it where I want.
 
You may have trouble inducing oversteer with the throttle, unless you have an aftermarket center differential. I can induce oversteer by turning in sharply, and/or lifting on the throttle, and/or braking, but as soon as I get on the gas it pulls the car back into a straight line. In AutoX I put my left foot on the brake, and I can dictate the pitch of the car's slide by alternating throttle/brake input. Since the stock VC center diff is 50/50, it will want to pull the car out of the slide when you gas it, unless you have an insane amount of power (or really crappy tires) that allow you to power slide through the turn on all fours.

You can upgrade your center diff which will change the front/rear distribution of power. I believe that could help you achieve more oversteer with throttle input.
 
Damn man you can make these for probably $75. I might just make them on my lathe.
 
Heim joints are not $100, they are roughly $38 each and lower.

Those are QA1 joints used which last time I looked them up $40 each. 2 is $80. 2 jamb nuts, around $6. I figure $5-10 shipping pending where you buy and how fair they are and you are pretty close to $100. Of course some may rather have lower quality parts and buy cheaper heims. I talked to a machinest and I wouldn't be saving much so I went with Jay Racing. I'd rather spend another $20 to a company who is offering parts that no one else is.

Either way I'm enjoying mine. Whether you have someone make them or pick up a set from Jay Racing. Plus they threw in a nice key chain for my spare key and sticker for my high vinyl horsepower parts cabinet. :p
 
Here are some pics

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Thank you, I have been busy scrapping up funds to do other things lately and honestly this mod has been pushed to the back burner.


It obviously will get done since I have the parts. I just got to find the time to install them.
 
Thank you, I have been busy scrapping up funds to do other things lately and honestly this mod has been pushed to the back burner.


It obviously will get done since I have the parts. I just got to find the time to install them.

I wasn't going to buy them until i saw them installed. You took to long so I went with it LOL
 
LOL, yea I am having troubles getting my car dialed in and curently the big project is getting under hood temps down without cutting up the bumper cover or using a hood vent. Once I get that lil project completed and the car dialed in on the shitty gas here then I will work on suspension again.






But how are your impressions?
 
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