It's on like Donkey Kong....another RS+T thread

[selmerguy]

i think your right snoop. it's a lil late for me though. i doubt it will break but if it does i guess i will just be getting a real turbo instead of this tiny 43 trim.

 

[GILZTSIAWD]

My plugs had a little oil on the when my turbo went, not much though, and you said one of yours was saturated. Its hard for the oil to make it all the way through the intercooler and everything and into the cylinders. As stated above though, get that compression check done before you jump the gun.

 

[XMasta19]

Oh of course, I definitely was gonna do a compression check...just haven't gotten a tester to use. Outta curiousity, how many of you guys have actually done your own rebuilds after you bought the kits?

 

[SnoopySLR]

I did. I didn't buy a kit though. I got the cylinders .020 over, crank and bed plate 10-10'd, Full bottom end balance, cam's, cam gears, valves, springs, retainers, lashers and rollers out of the 2.4, new oil pump, new water pump, all new pulleys for the timing belt, new timing belt tensioner, and a POS Goodyear timingbelt (for those of you who don't know it broke at 1800 miles)

I spent the contents of a small mint on my motor, between the internals and turbo kit. But I did do everything myself, so that saved a lot of money. If anyone in Michigan wanted help building their motor, I would have no problems helping out. Building my motor with my own hands was one of the most satisfying things I've ever done in my life.

 

[selmerguy]

i built my motor myself. aside from the machine work. i had very little experience with motors and had no problem with building my block. it is kinda like 3rd grade follow instructions stuff. as far as getting the crank balanced. i was told that it comes balanced from the factory. and since all the new parts(rods,pistons) weigh the same it is already balanced. so i didn't balance it and it works fine. i am not the only one to do this and i have not heard any bad things about it. but if you have 200 dollars extra to spend then i would have it done just to be safe. if it comes down to a crank balance or a clutch i would get the clutch though. my 2 cents. if you need any help pm me and i will gladly help you.

 

[SnoopySLR]

every crank is balanced... but not zero'd out to the gram. My entire bottom end is perfectly balanced to the gram

 

[DSMcrazy3]

....Lucky!

Josh

 

[SnoopySLR]

....Lucky!

Broke...

 

[XMasta19]

I'm strapped and scrappin for cash as it is, so if the crank isn't totally necessary, then I'm not spending money on it hehe. I'm assuming you all pulled the motor from the car to make it easier, although I've heard of guys rebuilding while it's in the car still. So if it all flows smoothly, how long did you guys take to do yours?

 

[DSMcrazy3]

That one all depends on personal experience. Some ppl can pull a motor in a couple of hours, while some it can take a day or 2(as long as you don't procrastinate) I would DEF. recommend removing the engine before doing a rebuild, that way you have more of a...desk like set up, instead of laying under a car, or leaning over...

Josh

 

[SnoopySLR]

if your getting oversized pistons the engine has to come out.

 

[WHite97RS]

took me a month to do an entire install(rebuilt motor, clutch, turbo, etc) That includes fabrication time and time waiting on miscellaneous parts.

 

[selmerguy]

might as well pull the whole thing and bore it out .20. that would give the motor a little more displacement. 2.2 i think. you can put the block togeather in a day easy. once i got my machining done i put the block togeather on a friday evening. and my car ran for 20 min Saturday evening after the install. i over torqued the cam caps and fried my head. so i spent 300 ,ore dollars and got a rebuilt head from houston. and had the car running that wed.

 

[XMasta19]

I'm just not sure I trust any shops up here to touch my shiznit, and they sure as hell would be mad expensive if I did..

 

[GILZTSIAWD]

You won't be anywhere near 2.2 from boring 20 over, it will actually be barely noticeable if at all. Maybe 2.02l

 

[siueclipse]

Not according to autometer. where else would it go?

Its supposed to go in the 4th runner. The 4th runner is the one known to be the hottest, therefore, by installing it there, you can rest assured the other cylinders are fine.

Having it installed where you do will lead to inaccurate numbers.

 

[siueclipse]

800 I don't want to tap the manifold. I really don't want the probe to break and have metal flying through my turbine.. no thanks

Ive been running the same EGT probe (autometer) for 4 years in my manifold without any problems.

The only part of the sensor that can break is the tiny edge of wire coming out of the tip. The possibility of it hurting anything is slim to none.

 

[XMasta19]

UPDATE TIME:

wifey bought me a compression tester


180 - 50 - 35 - 65

70 - 100 - 60


Second set of numbers are from the wet test on the three low cylinders.

Increases in compression indicate worn/blown rings


...guess I gotta wait till tax time for a rebuild
maybe I'll get lucky and find a spare motor

 

[greenmeanie99]

Nice to see another N/T-Turbo setup. Sucks about the compression.

 

[XMasta19]

How bout getting new oem replacement pistons w/rings for now? I can get them and a new headgasket for under $200, and that should get me back on the road correct. I just gotta loosen that damn wastegate actuator more so I don't hit 12 pounds again

 

[DSMcrazy3]

haha, you got it DON'T do it again! I need to tighten mine...but i'll be sure to go little by little haha...I hope you get her running again!

Josh

 

[BigRand]

How bout getting new oem replacement pistons w/rings for now? I can get them and a new headgasket for under $200, and that should get me back on the road correct. I just gotta loosen that damn wastegate actuator more so I don't hit 12 pounds again

Yeah a re ring kit is needed for sure, and your pistons are probably worn too.
Maybe you should ask if there is a different spring you can put in the wastegate so you don't have to jimmy rig anything.

 

[XMasta19]

Yeah a re ring kit is needed for sure, and your pistons are probably worn too.
Maybe you should ask if there is a different spring you can put in the wastegate so you don't have to jimmy rig anything.

Oh, I won't have to jimmy rig anything. It's just the wastegate actuator arm was loose the first time I went driving cuz I was playing with it before. Then when I put it back on, I tightened it up too good, thus preloading the spring and increasing the amount of pressure needed to open it. There's plenty of threads left that I can loosen it up and drop the setting to around 7psi I would think.

 

[selmerguy]

How bout getting new oem replacement pistons w/rings for now? I can get them and a new headgasket for under $200, and that should get me back on the road correct. I just gotta loosen that damn wastegate actuator more so I don't hit 12 pounds again

if you don't have access to another car i guess it would be ok to do it. however if you can use abother car save some of that airforce pay and do it right the first time.(or second in our case) eat at the dfac for awhile man.

 

[XMasta19]

if you don't have access to another car i guess it would be ok to do it. however if you can use abother car save some of that airforce pay and do it right the first time.(or second in our case) eat at the dfac for awhile man.

Nope, need the eee-clipse running asap Married, so no more meal card free food at the chow hall hehe. I don't mind using the little bit of money now to get her running again before the snow and extreme cold sets in next month. I plan on the complete rebuild and possible megasquirt addition when we get our tax return during winter.

Get paid this week, and hope to get the piston/ring set and headgasket ordered on thursday so that they might get here by saturday. That's the plan