It's a neverending nightmare...

[MountainDew]

Well looks like I'm back... Some of you may know that my car had really smoking issues before. So I replaced the headgasket, did some minor machine work and new valve seals installed.

Then my car wouldn't start for a month so I did the 1G CAS swap..

Car has been running pretty good. Until a couple of days ago. Yes, I had gotten on it. Boosted and let out around 6800. Did another pull then went home. I got home to discover lots of smoke and a wonderful ticking noise from my engine.

I've just been driving it how it is, but now I've noticed it only smokes horridly whenever I downshift or decelerate. I am out of ideas, and am just completely fed up with this car. Oh yeah, and this has to happen like just a day or two AFTER I buy brand new tires and put new leather seats in.

I've pretty much lost any hope for this car and am about to cut my losses..

 

[mach4g63t]

I'm telling you.. i've been down this path before. Save yourself a lot of time and headache, and most likely money, and pull your intake and check your turbo for shaft play... I can practically gaurantee you that it's shot. I'd fix the turbo and then fire 'er up and diagnose the ticking then.

Yea. Just 'cause you're getting a tick doesn't mean that's the problem. Every 7-bolt I've ever owned has sounded like a pissed off diesel. Never had a problem with it, other than it sounded like crap. I think the 3g revised lifters take care of that, right? Check that turbo.

 

[MountainDew]

It honestly doesn't sound like lifter tick though. But, I could be wrong.

Last time it was smoking real bad I checked for shaftplay and there was none whatsoever. However, the silver fitting going from the turbo to the oil pan (oil return line, correct?) was pinched severely. I had a pretty bad leak, so I patched it up with some heater hose and silicone. It's held up, but I know it must not be flowing good. Could this have anything to do with my problem? I was going to replace it, but I can't figure out how it comes off the oil pan itself. I also was just going to cut the pipe and clamp a hose.

I don't know, I'll look into it.. I wouldn't mind a new turbo anyways. Only problem is I'd be running a bigger turbo without supporting mods, but if I kept it around stock boost, I should be fine, right?

 

[numlock666]

b16G here with no fuel mods on CA 91 Craptane. Run 15lbs daily

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

Ported EVO III 16g with out any fuel mods, running 14lbs of boost and still running plenty rich (.98v). Just make sure that your fuel pump isn't faulty.

You'll be fine and happy that you did it. Trust me.

 

[98mitsuGSX-SD]

I had my GT-11 installed long before I had supporting mods but I blew the stock turbo and needed a replacement ASAP. I went months without supporting mods. Just stay within your proper boost levels for your current support mods and you'll be fine. Depending on the size of turbo you want to upgrade to you'll see changes in the powerband but that's about it. You won't be able to realize the full potential for your new turbo but you won't have to worry about any driveability concerns.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

If you want to rule out the engine internals for sure... have a leakdown test performed. Sorry I didn't mention this earlier, but I'm VERY positive that it's your turbo.

Remember that even on a perfectly running engine that you will have a small percentage of leaking when having the leakdown test done. What's more important is where and how much.

 

[MountainDew]

I had a leakdown test down when I first had problems. Guy told me headgasket for sure.

Also I put ARP studs on.. I retorqued them after 200 miles/6 heat cycles. Do you think maybe they loosened up, and this could cause my part of my problem at all? I'll pop the valve cover off and check. I need to fix the crack in my 6bolt cover anyways, it leaks a lot of oil inside underneath the spark plug cover thingy. Atleast I hope it's just a crack.

 

[mitsu_matt]

.... sorry to hear you problems, I just went through the same thing with my 2g and it turned out to be my turbo. Have fun

 

[MountainDew]

.... sorry to hear you problems, I just went through the same thing with my 2g and it turned out to be my turbo. Have fun

It happens. Just a lesson that I should have kept my super clean 5.0 or actually get the Talon checked out thoroughly before I purchased it.

Good to hear lots of people saying it's definitely my turbo though.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

Eh... look at the bright side... you're learning alot.

 

[MountainDew]

Eh... look at the bright side... you're learning alot.

Yeah, I've learned that these cars are retarded!

It's not so bad.. the one thing that absolutely made me go "wtf" is the whole timing procedure. Seriously, stupidest thing ever. So much easier on other cars. But oh well, everything else wasn't too difficult. I've learned so much about DSMs and even just cars in general. Just kind of sucks having this as my Daily Driver.

 

[NewSpool]

Holy smokes.. no pun intended, sounds a lot like the problem I've been having. BRAND new clearwater head (& valve seals of course) brand new head gasket, and a bagillion other things that supplement the new slowboy internals right? Well, SAME SMOKING ISSUE. The car ONLY smokes either under boost or at about 3500+. Couldn't figure it out for the life of me. Driving back to Fort Dix from Maine I burnt about 8 quarts of oil. Noticed the dipstick was loose in the block itself (could be the cause of some oil loss) but the rest was being burnt. Rings, pistons everything brand new.

Turbos shot bub.

Time for a new GT35

 

[MountainDew]

Holy smokes.. no pun intended, sounds a lot like the problem I've been having. BRAND new clearwater head (& valve seals of course) brand new head gasket, and a bagillion other things that supplement the new slowboy internals right? Well, SAME SMOKING ISSUE. The car ONLY smokes either under boost or at about 3500+. Couldn't figure it out for the life of me. Driving back to Fort Dix from Maine I burnt about 8 quarts of oil. Noticed the dipstick was loose in the block itself (could be the cause of some oil loss) but the rest was being burnt. Rings, pistons everything brand new.

Turbos shot bub.

Time for a new GT35

Yikes. Well I'm going to run a compression test and hope to see some good numbers across the deck.

I'll probably have to wait until next paycheck unless I can sell some parts I have laying around. Cause I need a new manifold as well, I have a 1g manifold on my car right now because my 2g cracked.

 

[MountainDew]

Seems like I've got some nasty shaftplay now..

Also when I pulled the intake off the turbo, I noticed oil just sitting in the intake where it attachs. Could this be another sign of a blown turbo?

I've got up and down, side to side, and in-out shaftplay. It doesn't seem like a lot, but it's enough I guess to do some damage.

I'll have one of my DSM buddies check it themselves since they probably have a better idea then I do.

 

[mach4g63t]

Seems like I've got some nasty shaftplay now..

Also when I pulled the intake off the turbo, I noticed oil just sitting in the intake where it attachs. Could this be another sign of a blown turbo?

I've got up and down, side to side, and in-out shaftplay. It doesn't seem like a lot, but it's enough I guess to do some damage.

I'll have one of my DSM buddies check it themselves since they probably have a better idea then I do.

Yeaup. That turbo is done. I had the same problem with the 14b that came with my car. So much that when I pulled my intercooler I flipped it upside down and oil actually dripped out of it. That sucker was probably spitting shat-tons of oil through your intake and into your engine. Did you check the plugs yet? When I had this happen it also caused the stuttering and 2 of my plugs were fouled. But realistically, a turbo is a much more simple, worthwhile replacement in terms of some of the others things that could be bad.
T-25's are so cute, but now you can get something with some real potential for later on.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

I'm glad I could help. Now... since you're walking down the same path I was a few months ago, you may be thinking "Do I swap to another T25 and save some money, or do I upgrade?" The seemingly obvious choice is to upgrade, but you did mention that you weren't sure due to not having any fuel mods done... well, as stated before, I'm running a stock 4g63 with an EVO III 16g @ 14lbs.

I posted a thread that may interest you to read: http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268765&highlight=t25+crapper

 

[MountainDew]

I'm glad I could help. Now... since you're walking down the same path I was a few months ago, you may be thinking "Do I swap to another T25 and save some money, or do I upgrade?" The seemingly obvious choice is to upgrade, but you did mention that you weren't sure due to not having any fuel mods done... well, as stated before, I'm running a stock 4g63 with an EVO III 16g @ 14lbs.

I posted a thread that may interest you to read: http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268765&highlight=t25+crapper

The answer is obviously upgrade. I'm just pissed off, because this is a brand new turbo. I bought the car and that's what the guy told me. I didn't doubt it, the thing looks brand spanking new. So either it was a bad turbo to begin with, a bad rebuild, or wasn't broken in properly before I got it. He said it had around 500 miles on it. Yes, I got on it when I first got the car. Everything was running smooth and swimmingly. Then the smoke started occurring.

As far as a new turbo.. I really have no idea. Right now, I need money to live off of, so I might have to wait until I get my next paycheck. (Early November..)

I'll probably just wait and see what kind of local deals pop up. I need a new manifold as well, so I could go with something hybrid that has a different flange but the 4bolt 02 housing.

Unless I can sell some parts on ebay or here, I'll have to wait a while..

 

[mach4g63t]

If you're wanting to just keep it simple, a 14b is an upgrade to the t-25... although not much. I have two laying around, and one that is in damn good condition. It came off my 50k JDM motor. Let me know if you decide not to go larger and just want something simple.

 

[MountainDew]

If you're wanting to just keep it simple, a 14b is an upgrade to the t-25... although not much. I have two laying around, and one that is in damn good condition. It came off my 50k JDM motor. Let me know if you decide not to go larger and just want something simple.

How much would you want for the good 14b? Also is a J-Pipe needed? Or is that just on 16gs?

 

[NewSpool]

16G turbos are bad ass, A friend of mine runs the EVO III as well and it's awesome.

However, if you do plan on upgrading your fuel system try checking out Garretts GT3582R. It's a 400-600HP turbo and can handle up to at LEAST 25lbs of boost. Probs more but shit, 18 with that thing is good enough. I <3 it.

 

[MountainDew]

16G turbos are bad ass, A friend of mine runs the EVO III as well and it's awesome.

However, if you do plan on upgrading your fuel system try checking out Garretts GT3582R. It's a 400-600HP turbo and can handle up to at LEAST 25lbs of boost. Probs more but shit, 18 with that thing is good enough. I <3 it.

Keep in mind, I'm on a budget here.

Do you think a ported and clipped 14b would be pretty equal to a 16g?

Also I sold a turbo to a buddy of mine a while back when I was planning on boosting my old Honda. I was thinking about maybe buying it back, because it seemed pretty nice. I might go pick it up and get a picture, see if you guys can identify it cause I never could. I was told it was a ported and clipped 16g, but if I remember right it was a td05 and didn't have a Mitsubishi exhaust housing/flange.

 

[NewSpool]

Noooooo way dude, even if it's ported and clipped the 16G still uses a bigger wheel and is a lot more powerful. So, yea you might get more flow with the 14b but hardly any power gain. You'd be better off seeing how big your old turbo is (first before you re-buy it) and then think about looking into getting something new.

There's a DSM shop in South Jersey that might rebuild and balance it for you though. I have to go there tomorrow so I can def ask. If you're on a budget and enjoy the power output you've got with it then that might be your best bet.

 

[MountainDew]

Noooooo way dude, even if it's ported and clipped the 16G still uses a bigger wheel and is a lot more powerful. So, yea you might get more flow with the 14b but hardly any power gain. You'd be better off seeing how big your old turbo is (first before you re-buy it) and then think about looking into getting something new.

There's a DSM shop in South Jersey that might rebuild and balance it for you though. I have to go there tomorrow so I can def ask. If you're on a budget and enjoy the power output you've got with it then that might be your best bet.

Meh, I'd prefer a bigger turbo. Nothing like a 35r, but I was wanting a 20g pretty bad. I'm kind of nervous running that kind of power through the car. Probably just end up getting a 16g.

How are the ebay 16gs? They are pretty affordable.

 

[NewSpool]

Check out TRENDY AUTO on ebay, I've bought stuff from them before and it's been awesome quality. Never had a problem.

You might want to check out OBX Street Power, they make a solid 20G for pretty cheap. And it's warrantied for a year. A buddy of mine picked one up a few months ago. Cars running strong.

Sorry for advertising on here. But just pointing in the right direction.

 

[mach4g63t]

If you would be willing to pay shipping I would let one go for whatever. I'm pretty hurting on money right now after this motor/tranny I just bought. Only problem I think I should warn you about in advance is that I'm not in St. Louis right now, but in North Carolina, so that might be a little higher shipping. I could probably let the better of the two go for like 50 bucks.