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1G Issues with car pulling to one side when on the brakes hard

Posted by talon77, Jul 10, 2018

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  1. talon77

    talon77 Proven Member

    119
    32
    Joined Sep 12, 2004
    annapolis, Maryland
    Hey All,

    Just wanted to pick your thoughts on my situation. My dedicated roadcourse car has developed a weird brake-pull issue that I am noticing within the past year, that I've never noticed before. At the track or on the road, when I'm on the brakes medium-to-hard, the car pulls very aggressively to the right. The car exhibited the pull behavior at my last track outing slowing down after the front straights at around 130mph and it was kind of *puckering*. Has anyone experienced this on their dsm before?

    Background:
    My mods are in my profile. In attempt to fix this, so far I've replaced all (4) brake calipers and (while I was at it) I also installed the 3g MC. The car pulled to the right before the new parts and continues to do so now. Relatively fresh brake bleed, new tires, newish alignment and the car still pulls. The old tires wore relatively evenly and the brake pads wear evenly at the front from left side to the right side (even though the pads suffer from pad taper on both front sides, but they are still even between left to right). Rear pads wear evenly between left and right as well. The brake sliders are in good shape and well lubricated. The only things brake-related that haven't been replaced are the front (14-year old though) stainless flex brake lines (rear lines are new) and the proportioning valve, but I have no reason to suspect either of those things. There is minimal brake "drag" that I can detect when I spin the wheel by hand when the car is lifted.

    I called Baer brakes (I have their big brake kit) asking about this issue and the tech responded that 99% of these type of brake pull issues are related to worn out SUSPENSION parts (where suspension/pull issues are magnified severely under hard braking). Suspension-wise my car has 1-year old rebuilt JIC shocks/struts, no detectable play in inner/outer tie rods by shaking wheels or pulling the rods. No detectable play in front lower balljoints. The suspension bushings were swapped out to poly bushings years ago and I don't detect any play in them either. While in the air, I pried around the front lower control arm for play in the control arm bushings, but no detectable play there either. No weird play in the front wheel bearings either.

    I recall years ago, when I replaced the poly bushings for the front lower control arms, that the rear shaft at the control arm (where the big marshmallow-looking bushing goes) looked a little corroded and not smooth. I suspected maybe the corrosion got worse maybe causing some play, so I pried around that area with a pry bar, but again no detectable play. I may just buy a new set of 1aauto control arms and install poly bushings on them and call it a day to rule out the control arm and ball joint, but I'm starting to run out of ideas besides blindly buying replacement parts or another new set of calipers (I would upgrade, of course, but that's beside the point here). Thoughts from anyone that has experienced brake pull before, and how you fixed it?
     

    Road Race Build 3K  17

    1994 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    345 whp · 318 lb/ft · 1G DSM
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  2. talon77

    talon77 Proven Member

    119
    32
    Joined Sep 12, 2004
    annapolis, Maryland
    I also backed off the rear parking brake adjustment very loose to the point that the e-brake cannot possibly drag on either side as well.
     

    Road Race Build 3K  17

    1994 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    345 whp · 318 lb/ft · 1G DSM
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  3. d1prospect

    d1prospect Proven Member

    207
    25
    Joined Mar 14, 2004
    Glen Bunie, Maryland
    My car did this and it ended up being my hub centric rings were gone. Just an idea. Probably not your issue but just thought I’d throw that out there. I never paid attention if my rings where in when removing wheels. Then I looked and one was missing. Again just my situation. Good luck
     

    Drag Race Build 3K  15

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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    talon77 likes this.
  4. talon77

    talon77 Proven Member

    119
    32
    Joined Sep 12, 2004
    annapolis, Maryland
    Thanks for the reply, but I just checked... the hub centric rings are still there, no dice. I didn’t even think about that, so I appreciate the suggestion. Any other ideas are welcomed from those that have experienced this.
     

    Road Race Build 3K  17

    1994 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    345 whp · 318 lb/ft · 1G DSM
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  5. donniekak

    donniekak DSM Wiseman

    4,625
    837
    Joined Mar 23, 2008
    Surprise, Arizona
    Do you have the little brace on the subframe right next to the north/south brace you need to take off to remove the trans? I think it has 5 bolts that hold it on.

    Without that piece the subframe will crack and do exactly what you’re describing.

    069AA8CE-3CA8-477D-9AF9-24B5E7E978CA.jpeg It’s not circled in the pic but you can see it clearly.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 16, 2018

    Street Build 3K  0

    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM
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    talon77 likes this.
  6. talon77

    talon77 Proven Member

    119
    32
    Joined Sep 12, 2004
    annapolis, Maryland
    Thanks Donniekak, yeah I definitely have that 5-bolt brace for sure. I just ordered a new set of front control arms with fresh ball joint and poly bushings from energy suspension and whiteline. I may also pick up fresh outer tie rod ends to rule out any remainder suspension issues (those components could use refreshening anyways so I don’t mind). Hoping that does the trick to eliminate any slop. In the meantime, keep the ideas coming if you got them, in case I’m missing anything. Thanks
     

    Road Race Build 3K  17

    1994 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    345 whp · 318 lb/ft · 1G DSM
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  7. donniekak

    donniekak DSM Wiseman

    4,625
    837
    Joined Mar 23, 2008
    Surprise, Arizona
    Worn a arm bushings will do the same thing.
     

    Street Build 3K  0

    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM
    Loading...
    Dstarperformance01 likes this.
  8. talon77

    talon77 Proven Member

    119
    32
    Joined Sep 12, 2004
    annapolis, Maryland
    Ok, I will report back after I install the new control arms with the fresh bushings and ball joints.
     

    Road Race Build 3K  17

    1994 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    345 whp · 318 lb/ft · 1G DSM
    Loading...
  9. Jamesberry2382

    Jamesberry2382 Probationary Member

    8
    3
    Joined Jul 21, 2018
    Griffith, Indiana
    Did you figure this out?
     

    355  1

    1992 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
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  10. talon77

    talon77 Proven Member

    119
    32
    Joined Sep 12, 2004
    annapolis, Maryland
    Not yet. I’ve been meaning to do some upgrades anyways so I went ahead and bought new CTSV calipers, new front control arms with new poly caster bushings and ball joints but I haven’t had a chance to install any of it yet. I will make sure I update this thread when I figure this out.
     

    Road Race Build 3K  17

    1994 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    345 whp · 318 lb/ft · 1G DSM
    Loading...
  11. Jamesberry2382

    Jamesberry2382 Probationary Member

    8
    3
    Joined Jul 21, 2018
    Griffith, Indiana
    Thank you I also had issues ended up being we had a hose collapsing fixed the problem.
     

    355  1

    1992 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
    Loading...
    talon77 likes this.
  12. arrowhead

    arrowhead Proven Member

    570
    32
    Joined Apr 19, 2011
    miami, Florida
    I was going to post on your thread the day you started it.
    Glad you replaced your hoses (all of them), stainless will take longer but they do frail on the inside, just as the rubber ones, come on 14 years. I really hope you replaced all of them, even the stainless with all their benefits, should be replaced every couple of years in a track car.
     

    Road Race Build 2K  0

    1998 Eagle Talon TSi
    manual · 2G DSM
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    talon77 likes this.
  13. talon77

    talon77 Proven Member

    119
    32
    Joined Sep 12, 2004
    annapolis, Maryland
    Update, I replaced the 14 year old stainless hoses with fresh new ones during the off season and just brought the talon out of hibernation and off the jack stands….and it still pulls the same to the right.... like a mother. I can get it to pull easily, even at 40mph if I'm on the brakes hard. I may consider replacing the A-arm bushings but I gotta say I have a hard time bringing myself to do it because there doesn't seem to be any abnormal play in the front control arm or balljoints area when I pry on it, but I'm running out of ideas. Still thinking about what to do next to try to fix this.
     

    Road Race Build 3K  17

    1994 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    345 whp · 318 lb/ft · 1G DSM
    Loading...
  14. talon77

    talon77 Proven Member

    119
    32
    Joined Sep 12, 2004
    annapolis, Maryland
    I just went out and check and confirmed that my left rear parking brake does not work at all. Notice when I pull on the parking brake pulley assembly that the left side of the pulley gets pulled all the way up (because it has no resistance since it doesn't work), but the right side stays behind? I don't have any experience with playing with the automatic parking brake adjuster inside the rear caliper mechanism, but I wonder if that affects the rear braking performance at all. I downplayed it before because I can kinda see both rear calipers sliding a little (ie: piston moving correctly) when I bled the rears so I just assumed they were both working correctly, but now I'm wondering if the malfunctioned auto adjuster can be causing the pull. Both rear calipers are fairly new reman calipers but I guess that might not be saying much because they are remanufactured. You guys think a bad rear auto adjuster on the left could cause brake pull to the right that is only experienced when I brake hard. When I brake "normally", the car stops just fine, no pulling at all.
     

    Attached Files:

    Road Race Build 3K  17

    1994 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    345 whp · 318 lb/ft · 1G DSM
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